All Locations > Arizona > Southern Arizona > Cochise Stronghold > West Stronghold > Sheepshead Area (… > The Sheepshead
Ides of Middlemarch
Avg: 2.7 from 35 votes
|Type:||Trad, 700 ft, 5 pitches|
|FA:||Mike Strassman & Scott Ayers (1987)|
|Page Views:||5,880 total · 44/month|
|Shared By:||David Arthur Sampson on Jan 21, 2007|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
DescriptionContrary to rc.com, I think the crux is near the top of the second pitch; protected with a pin.
P1. 5.7-5.9; poor rock quality-crack or face to right-facing crack/off-width with a slight (bolt protected) traverse up and left to shrub/tree position for belay (two old bolts/hangers).
P2. 5.9+; the "money" pitch. Thin face start to crack/off-width/chimney climbing. Protects well. Piton at the crux. Stop at fixed slings ca. 200 feet.
P3. 5.8-5.9; continue up crack to what looks like (but is not)a roof. Standard route is the traverse right to a 5.6 crack (with nice positioning and great exposure) and then up run-out face on plates (~ 210 ft). A variation listed in the guide book is left at the overhang.
P4. 5.5-5.6 face climbing to the "great ledge".
P5. Original pitch is an awkward, overhanging off-width. There are numerous (I count four) bolted face climbs to reach the summit.
IMHO, for P1 ignore rc.com and: 1) either skirt the bulge to the right, or 2) do the bolted (harder) start. The bulge is protected with a scary bolt and hanger.
Definitely an "adventure" route, 5.9 climbers heads-up.
Great exposure and positioning on pitch 3 (and a bit run-out)!
LocationContinue up trail from peacemaker (about 120 feet).
There are several variations for the start; there is a right-leaning easy crack, a harder bolted face (down and around to the right), and the original start, I presume, that I have apparently not done. Check the Toofast topo (see comments from Geir below) for more route info.
This climb has a walk off.