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Routes in The Sheepshead

Absinthe of Mallet T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Animal Husbandry S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bantam of the Opera S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bruise the Rooster T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Burning Calves S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Climb Too Tough To Die, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Dark Horse T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Ewephoria T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Get The Flock Out Of Here T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Greedy Little Varmint T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hardskins of Our Forefathers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Ides of Middlemarch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Last Roundup, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mad Cow Disease T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Peacemaker, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Phony Pony T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stampede S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tombstone Stripper, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unmitigated Audacity S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 600 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Shawn Davis and John White
Page Views: 113 total, 14/month
Shared By: Mike Esparza on Apr 17, 2017
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

See Backcountry Climbing in Southern Arizona for more details. This is a stout route for the grade compared to Ewephoria. Pitch 1: should be rated 5.9R as there is a 100% deck factor if you fall before the first bolt (probably 60 feet up). Start left of Absinthe at an obvious weakness and head up and right on the face passing 3 bolts. Belay in the offwidth (5.9). Pitch 2: Head up the offwidth (bring big gear above #4 camalot) and go left following some face traverse moves with protection above in an undercling crack. Surmount/traverse the "weakness flake" on the left and head up and right to a ledge. Follow ledge to right and drop down into the dihedral to belay (5.9). Pitch 3: Head up the dihedral (good gear) and then right on the face past a bolt to a crack with a tree in it. Head up to the face, passing an old bolt and belay at the beginning of the chimney (5.8). Pitch 4: Grovel up the chimney passing a tree. Head p the groove to a small tree and belay (200 ft pitch) (5.8). Pitch 5: Continue up the groove and head underneath and through a slot and set a belay (200 ft pitch) (5.6). Pitch 6: At this point, you can either go up the chimney for Absinthe of Mallet which is 5.5 or Head up to the left overhang of the aerete and finish on "too tough to die" which is 5.9 and a stellar pitch.

Protection

Standard trad rack with a few bigger cams to keep the pucker factor low.

Photos

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