Type: Trad, 870 ft (264 m), 6 pitches
FA: Scott Ayers & Mike Strassman (1987)
Page Views: 11,960 total · 58/month
Shared By: joe E lee on May 20, 2007 · Updates
Admins: adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

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Description Suggest change

Super fun six pitch route up the left front side of the Sheepshead. The bulk of the climb is easy to moderate slab climbing protected by bolts. But each pitch has a distinct crux to keep the 9+/10a leader fully entertained. Expect runout sections on easier ground. The middle section of pitch one follows a wide crack system that requires trad gear. This is the only pitch that requires a trad rack. On pitch two, at the top of the brown streak, the bolt line forks. The bolts to the left are for a DIFFERENT route. Follow the new bolts that go up and right. Pitch three pulls a short steep headwall. The upper section of pitch four ascends a rounded slab. Bring several long slings to protect pitch five. Move the belay up and left to a two bolt anchor on the far left of the sandy ledge for the last pitch which is outrageous (more mental than physical for both the leader and follower). Follow the bolt line on the left side of the final headwall. There are three alternate finishes, (1) around the corner and to the left of the bolt line that goes straight up is the final pitch of The Last Roundup (5.10), (2) the chimney all the way to the right where you can follow bolts on the left face of the wide part of the chimney (5.8) or climb the squeeze in the back, and (3) a line that goes diagonally up and left from the base of the chimney following four bolts and uses natural pro after that (11b).

Geir has a nice Topo of the area that includes multiple routes and how they overlap for free here: toofasttopos.com/wp-content…


Location Suggest change

The main trail to the Sheepshead takes you to the start of Absinthe of Mallet. From this point hike left and up along the base of the Sheepshead towards Ewephoria. Continue past a large roof/overhang. Look for three closely spaced bolts that angle up and right toward a small tree. Above this tree, you can see a bolt on a small lichen covered roof. After the crack, you basically follow the bolt line. Descend by walking off the back side and contouring left. Follow cairns to a well worn trail. Make sure to bring your walk off shoes.

Protection Suggest change

The majority of the route is bolted. All belay stations have fixed anchors. I carried 8 shoulder length slings and 6-8 quickdraws. For pitch one, I would recommend a single set of cams from medium fingers to a blue Camalot.