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Elevation: 6,154 ft
GPS: 31.87036, -109.99397
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 216,166 total · 825/month
Shared By: James DeRoussel on Aug 20, 2002
Admins: adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

Description Suggest change

Cochise Stronghold is a spectacular landscape of rugged canyons and towering granite domes. While there is certainly something for everyone in this vast area, those seeking traditional, multi pitch climbing will have a special appreciation for climbing here in the Dragoon Mountains.

The amount of climbing in Cochise Stronghold is absurd, and most of the rock is of outstanding quality. Many super classic routes, put up by pioneering young climbers since the 1970's, ascend the various spires and domes in the area. Most of the quality crack climbs in Southern Arizona are found here, as are some of the longest routes in this part of the state. Many of these routes are difficult, committing, and very runout. If you cant climb them this way, go climb something else. Though bolts have made their way into the Stronghold, placing fixed gear here is still frowned upon. Additionally, this area is of great cultural significance to many people. Treat it with due respect.

Climbing is Cochise Stronghold is a true backcountry experience. The remote setting, coupled with the committing nature of many of the climbs here, require preparation beyond that of roadside cragging on Mt Lemmon. The terrain is rugged and maze-like, and it is generally easier to get lost than to get where you are going. Allow plenty of time for approaches and err on the side of caution.

While current closures do not effect the Sheepshead Area, a large portion of the climbing in Cochise Stronghold is closed annually for raptor nesting. Current closures are from February 15 - June 30 and include the entire Rockfellow Group and What's My Line Dome. Check with the Forest Service for changes and current closures.

For more information and some interesting background on Cochise Stronghold, see Bob Kerry's guide 'Backcountry Climbing in Southern Arizona.'

Getting There Suggest change

From Tucson, had east on I-10 to exit #303 (Tombstone/Bisbee). Turn right (south) on Arizona Highway 80 and drive for about 20 miles. Just before Tombstone, turn left onto Middlemarch Road. Follow this rough gravel road for almost ten miles to Forest Road 687. Make a left, towards the West Stronghold and follow this dirt road north. Make the first right turn on a dirt road that leads past a windmill to the road's end. Park and hike across the grassy field to the obvious domes.

58 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Sheepshead Area (Southwest) Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Sheepshead Area (Southwest)

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 483
Ewephoria
Trad 5 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 228
Mystery of the Desert
Trad 5 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 43
We Expect You
Trad 4 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 376
The Peacemaker
Sport 7 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 79
Phony Pony
Trad 5 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 243
Absinthe of Mallet
Trad 7 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
 122
The Climb Too Tough To Die
Trad 6 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 5
Love Lettuce
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 78
Dark Horse
Trad 6 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 66
Get The Flock Out Of Here
Trad 5 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 86
Stampede
Sport 7 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 33
The Inevitable Awaits You
Sport 3 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 30
In Water There Is Life
Sport 3 pitches
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 26
Sheep Thrills
Trad, Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 14
Tiny But Exciting
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Ewephoria Sheepshead
 483
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 5 pitches
Mystery of the Desert Muttonhead
 228
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 5 pitches
We Expect You Mt Chaktar
 43
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 4 pitches
The Peacemaker Sheepshead
 376
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 7 pitches
Phony Pony Sheepshead
 79
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 5 pitches
Absinthe of Mallet Sheepshead
 243
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 7 pitches
The Climb Too Tough To Die Sheepshead
 122
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 Trad 6 pitches
Love Lettuce Carnivore Pinnacle &…
 5
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Dark Horse Sheepshead
 78
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad 6 pitches
Get The Flock Out Of Here Sheepshead
 66
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 5 pitches
Stampede Sheepshead
 86
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport 7 pitches
The Inevitable Awaits You Muttonhead
 33
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport 3 pitches
In Water There Is Life Muttonhead
 30
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 3 pitches
Sheep Thrills Crisis Center
 26
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad, Sport
Tiny But Exciting Muttonhead
 14
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Sheepshead Area (Southwest) »

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