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Routes in Crisis Center

Mr. Orange Gets Kinky T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Sheep Thrills T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, Sport, 120 ft
FA: Eric Fazio-Rhichard, Bob Kerry
Page Views: 4,980 total, 45/month
Shared By: randy baum on Oct 26, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Description

http://www.climbaz.com/Backcountry/page_html/page298.html

30' of face climbing brings you two a couple great cam placements in horizontal cracks. A few more moves get you to the first bolt and the start of the dike system. Stem, pinch, and crimp your way past bolts to a stance in front of a crack system and the end of the dike. Place a few cams or nuts here and climb easy terrain to the top. A typical Cochise ending, there is no pro available in this last 20 or so feet of this climb. With some help from your belayer, you can descend with just one 60 meter rope.

Location

First (and only?) route on the Crisis Center. Located low on the formation, just across the gully from the Sheephead route Stampede.

Protection

Small to medium cams; quickdraws.

Photos

Toast with Butter
Tempe, AZ
 
Toast with Butter   Tempe, AZ
 
This is a great climb with entertaining moves and interesting features. I used only cams for natural pro: basically doubles from zero (purp metolius) to .4 inch. There were many spots where a rack of offset nuts could have placed too. I felt very safe and was even able to place a bomber 000 before the chains. It's a serious route, but very typical as far as Cochise goes. This route has some fantastic movement and def makes it into my top ten at Cochise. Not to be missed, especially if you are somewhat comfortable at the grade. Mar 7, 2016
stevecurtis
Petaluma California
stevecurtis   Petaluma California
We did the combination Stampeed/sheep thrills for the great day. I found both these routes really stiff for the grade--12 a is very conservative. Sheep thrills had blind placements, long runouts, insecure climbing. The top is sharp and could cut a rope--35 ft runout on 10 A
This is a great route, stout and thought provoking. Nov 12, 2010
Andy Bennett
Tucson, AZ
Andy Bennett   Tucson, AZ
Second only to Tombstone crack as one of the best single pitch routes I've done in the Stronghold. Thanks Eric and Bob! Aug 18, 2010
max gibbons
AZ y TO
max gibbons   AZ y TO
Thank you for the route submission, Mr. Spock (3rd circuit rational).
Humans will find the dyke badass (2nd circuit emotional).

Set of nuts will protect well. Combine with Stampede! for an exceptional day (compliments TWr). Mar 9, 2010
Aaron Miller
Santa Fe, NM
  5.12a
Aaron Miller   Santa Fe, NM
  5.12a
Pretty serious line. Moves after second bolt are hard and you could take a monster whip.

Quality route! Feb 17, 2009