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Routes in Mt. Chaktar

Courage of the Fearless Crew T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Ghosts of the Past T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Strassman Memorial Buttress T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
We Expect You T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Trad, 430 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Scott Ayers, Mike Strassman, Dave Burke, Avi Steinburg
Page Views: 215 total · 20/month
Shared By: sarcasm on Nov 7, 2017
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

Super fun route up the main slab on Mt. Chaktar. First two pitches have some 5.9 slab moves, and second two pitches are easier coming in around 5.8.

Route location left to right is:
Courage of the Fearless Crew
Ghosts of the Past
We Expect you
Strassman Memorial Buttress

Pitch 1:
Clip bolts to the left facing roof/corner, continuing up clipping bolts to a small stance, anchor. 5.9 14 bolts, 110'

Pitch 2:
Continue up the slab, clipping bolts, to an anchor 5.9 10 bolts, 110'

Pitch 3:
Climb up to the roof, clipping bolts, following them to the right of the roof, ending at a nice ledge. 5.8, 5 bolts, 50'

Pitch 4:
Follow the bolt line directly above the anchor, up and left clipping bolts, eventually reaching a section of chickenheads, anchor lies above. 5.8 11 bolts, 160'

Descent:
1st Rap to P3 anchors on Ghosts of the Past
2nd Rap to P2 anchor on Ghosts of the Past
3rd Rap to P1 anchor on The Royal Scam
4th Rap to ground

Location

From the ledge, start just right of a grassy corner, just to the left of the start of Strassman Memorial Buttress. Under a left facing corner/roof.

Protection

Many bolts, pro to 2"

Photos

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arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
Thank you Tanya for such a great book that is opening up climbs that I hadn't explored before! Feb 12, 2018
Nick Niebuhr
Santa Fe, NM
  5.9
Nick Niebuhr   Santa Fe, NM
  5.9
Slab lovers dream! I only used supplemental gear on the last pitch, and I think only a nut and a .4 Camalot. It's only run out when it's really easy. Mar 24, 2018
Thanks arjunmh! I am rarely on here and it so funny to see my name on this website. I had such a great time climbing, exploring, getting scared, and then compiling it all. My goal was to do just what you said-get people on more great routes. Please let me know if you have any feedback on the routes and how I can make the books better please email me:cochiseclimbing.com. Hope you are enjoying the East Side book as much as the West. Jun 19, 2018

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