Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Muttonhead

Full Metal Hootgat T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Have You Seen It? S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
I'm Your Huckleberry S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
In Water There Is Life S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Inevitable Awaits You, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mystery of the Desert T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No More Credit From the Liquor Store S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Oops, I Sharted T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Seeing is Believing T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Tiny But Exciting S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tour Buses Welcome S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 165 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Scott Ayers, Andrew McCalister & John Diaz
Page Views: 922 total, 15/month
Shared By: cochiseclimbing on Jan 22, 2013
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


8 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

The third pitch of this route is a stunning left-facing corner climbed in a sustained stem. This pitch alone is one of the best on the formation. Check out the position in the photo on the cover of the West Side Guidebook.

Start at the highest point up the descent gully at the base of the upper E face.

P1-Climb the obvious green water-stain straight up to the anchor. 5.11-, 70'

P2-This is more of transfer pitch to get below the corner above. Pass the 3 bolts on the steep face to gain the ledge. 5.9, 45'

P3-The money pitch...get after it. 5.11-, 50'

Check out the companion route "In Vino Veritas" downhill for a complete Doc Holiday movie trivia.

Location

Short steep green lichen streak on the south face just before you reach the saddle between Muttonhead and Sheepshead.

Protection

Bolts

Photos

Andy Bennett
Tucson, AZ
  5.11-
Andy Bennett   Tucson, AZ
  5.11-
The third pitch of this route is an excellent stemming corner. From the top of Pitch 1, the leader can continue up and slightly right over easy 3rd class terrain to a group of small trees; here it may be possible to belay off of the trees+gear (we came in later from the saddle after realizing that there was a 2nd and 3rd pitch). Climb the short approach "pitch" (5.9) and gain a ledge with bolt anchors to the left. Climb the exceptional corner! All pitches are well bolted, but you might bring up something to supplement the trees for the first belay. Jan 2, 2014
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
  5.11b
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
  5.11b
10 bolts of thought-provoking varied climbing with a tough finish.

This is actually a 3 pitch sport route. While I have not climbed the other pitches, the second pitch is approximately 5.9 and the third pitch is approximately 11- and looks awesome. Jan 25, 2013