All Locations > Arizona > Southern Arizona > Cochise Stronghold > W Stronghold > Sheepshead Area… > Muttonhead

Mystery of the Desert

Name: Mystery of the Desert
Rating: 3.0

5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British

Routes in The Muttonhead

L › R R › L A › Z

	Full Metal Hootgat T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
	Have You Seen It? S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	I'm Your Huckleberry S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c A0
	I;m thinking about thos Beans - Bonus Summit Pitch S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	In Water There Is Life S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
	Inevitable Awaits You, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	MOTD - Bonus Summit Pitch T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Mystery of the Desert T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	No More Credit From the Liquor Store S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Oops, I Sharted T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Seeing is Believing T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Tiny But Exciting S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Tour Buses Welcome S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type:	Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 5 pitches
GPS:	31.87115, -109.99528
FA:	Mike Strassman & Scott Ayers
Page Views:	17,619 total · 74/month
Shared By:	David C. Burke on Mar 7, 2007 · Updates
Admins:	adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

This is a great moderate climb with varied and fun climbing from start to finish.

P1 - (5.7) Start at a prominent left facing dihedral. Climb up to the dihedral and follow this feature until a good stance on a dike. You can belay here on gear or move left along the dike about fifteen feet to a two bolt anchor.

P2 The Wedge - (5.8) Continue up and slightly left along a crack to a roof that is well protected by some bolts. Surmount the roof and continue up to a wide crack. You can squeeze through the wedge or climb up and over it via an offwidth and three bolts for pro. On the other side of the wedge there is a two bolt anchor.

P3 The Veg - (5.7) Head up to a short slightly right leaning handcrack. Climb the crack and then follow three bolts up a low angle rib of rock to a nice slot with a couple of trees for the belay. The original route took the gully to the right of the rib which is basically a ramp filled with shrubs and trees, thus the name of this pitch.

P4 - (5.9) From the slot face climb up to a beautiful 5.9 layback crack. At the top of the crack traverse left along a thin dike protected by one bolt to a two bolt belay.

P5 - (5.8) From the two bolt belay climb a short face protected by two bolts to the top. There are some stout trees at the top for a belay.

BONUS 6TH PITCH
There are two routes at the top of the Muttonhead formation that start at the treed ledge. Climb either of these to tag the summit of The Muttonhead formation.

Summit Pitch (10a) - 4 bolts, pro to 2”
I;m thinking about thos Beans (5.6) - 4 bolts

Location

This route starts at a left facing dihedral on the far left of the Southwest face of the Muttonhead. The dihedral start is in between two bolted lines. The descent is a walk off.