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> Muttonhead
Mystery of the Desert
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 3 from 229
votes
Routes in The Muttonhead
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Full Metal Hootgat T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Have You Seen It? S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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I'm Your Huckleberry S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c A0 |
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In Water There Is Life S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Inevitable Awaits You, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mystery of the Desert T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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No More Credit From the Liquor Store S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Oops, I Sharted T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Seeing is Believing T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Tiny But Exciting S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Tour Buses Welcome S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 450 ft (136 m), 5 pitches |
| FA: | Mike Strassman & Scott Ayers |
| Page Views: | 16,941 total · 79/month |
| Shared By: | David C. Burke on Mar 7, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | adrian montaño, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
This is a great moderate climb with varied and fun climbing from start to finish.
P1 - (5.7) Start at a prominent left facing dihedral. Climb up to the dihedral and follow this feature until a good stance on a dike. You can belay here on gear or move left along the dike about fifteen feet to a two bolt anchor.
P2 The Wedge - (5.8) Continue up and slightly left along a crack to a roof that is well protected by some bolts. Surmount the roof and continue up to a wide crack. You can squeeze through the wedge or climb up and over it via an offwidth and three bolts for pro. On the other side of the wedge there is a two bolt anchor.
P3 The Veg - (5.7) Head up to a short slightly right leaning handcrack. Climb the crack and then follow three bolts up a low angle rib of rock to a nice slot with a couple of trees for the belay. The original route took the gully to the right of the rib which is basically a ramp filled with shrubs and trees, thus the name of this pitch.
P4 - (5.9) From the slot face climb up to a beautiful 5.9 layback crack. At the top of the crack traverse left along a thin dike protected by one bolt to a two bolt belay.
P5 - (5.8) From the two bolt belay climb a short face protected by two bolts to the top. There are some stout trees at the top for a belay.
P1 - (5.7) Start at a prominent left facing dihedral. Climb up to the dihedral and follow this feature until a good stance on a dike. You can belay here on gear or move left along the dike about fifteen feet to a two bolt anchor.
P2 The Wedge - (5.8) Continue up and slightly left along a crack to a roof that is well protected by some bolts. Surmount the roof and continue up to a wide crack. You can squeeze through the wedge or climb up and over it via an offwidth and three bolts for pro. On the other side of the wedge there is a two bolt anchor.
P3 The Veg - (5.7) Head up to a short slightly right leaning handcrack. Climb the crack and then follow three bolts up a low angle rib of rock to a nice slot with a couple of trees for the belay. The original route took the gully to the right of the rib which is basically a ramp filled with shrubs and trees, thus the name of this pitch.
P4 - (5.9) From the slot face climb up to a beautiful 5.9 layback crack. At the top of the crack traverse left along a thin dike protected by one bolt to a two bolt belay.
P5 - (5.8) From the two bolt belay climb a short face protected by two bolts to the top. There are some stout trees at the top for a belay.
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