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Routes in The Muttonhead

Full Metal Hootgat T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Have You Seen It? S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
I'm Your Huckleberry S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
In Water There Is Life S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Inevitable Awaits You, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mystery of the Desert T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No More Credit From the Liquor Store S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Oops, I Sharted T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Seeing is Believing T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Tiny But Exciting S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tour Buses Welcome S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 5 pitches
FA: Mike Strassman & Scott Ayers
Page Views: 11,023 total, 84/month
Shared By: David C. Burke on Mar 7, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


109 Opinions

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Description

This is a great moderate climb with varied and fun climbing from start to finish.

P1 - (5.7) Start at a prominent left facing dihedral. Climb up to the dihedral and follow this feature until a good stance on a dike. You can belay here on gear or move left along the dike about fifteen feet to a two bolt anchor.

P2 The Wedge - (5.8) Continue up and slightly left along a crack to a roof that is well protected by some bolts. Surmount the roof and continue up to a wide crack. You can squeeze through the wedge or climb up and over it via an offwidth and three bolts for pro. On the other side of the wedge there is a two bolt anchor.

P3 The Veg - (5.7) Head up to a short slightly right leaning handcrack. Climb the crack and then follow three bolts up a low angle rib of rock to a nice slot with a couple of trees for the belay. The original route took the gully to the right of the rib which is basically a ramp filled with shrubs and trees, thus the name of this pitch.

P4 - (5.9) From the slot face climb up to a beautiful 5.9 layback crack. At the top of the crack traverse left along a thin dike protected by one bolt to a two bolt belay.

P5 - (5.8) From the two bolt belay climb a short face protected by two bolts to the top. There are some stout trees at the top for a belay.

Location

This route starts at a left facing dihedral on the far left of the Southwest face of the Muttonhead. The dihedral start is in between two bolted lines. The descent is a walk off.

Protection

Gear up to three inches and bolts. Most of the anchors are two bolt with a few anchors off of sturdy trees.
Scott Beguin
Santa Fe, NM
  5.9
Scott Beguin   Santa Fe, NM
  5.9
Don't pass this one up. Do it! The chimney was easier than it looked. I thought the top of the pitch 5 ramp crack was the crux. May 3, 2016
Floridaputz
Oakland Park, Florida
Floridaputz   Oakland Park, Florida
A beautiful day to climb mystery of the desert. This climb is a lot of fun with some interesting challenges. On P1 I used the first 3 bolts of "tour buses welcome" and traversed left back to the corner and that is a good way to do this pitch. I did not run the 2nd pitch with this, but this can be easily done. The little overhang on P2 was fun. Now squaring off with the wedge ! This was pretty straight forward up to the second clip. Now it gets tough. When I finally figured it out it was not that bad. No way I was going to squeeze through that slot. I ran the next 2 pitches together, the "Veg" and the Layback crack. Even though the layback crack was slick and committing, I think the wedge was harder. The rope drag made this a bad idea for combining pitches. The belay here is a beautiful airy hanging belay. A few moves down low and you are at the finish ledge in no time. Anyway, I highly recommend this climb. Mar 15, 2015
James Martin
Tucson, AZ
James Martin   Tucson, AZ
Left a pair of sunglasses and lenses at the bottom of this climb. Please contact me if found. Thanks! Dec 21, 2014
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
The classic "deep breath out, move two inches, inhale and repeat". At one point I believe I was worming through horizontally. Sep 9, 2014
Jacob Jones
oklazona
Jacob Jones   oklazona
I'm with Daryl on this - I had to climb the OW. Got stuck in wedge. Sep 9, 2014
Daryl Allan
Sierra Vista, AZ
Daryl Allan   Sierra Vista, AZ
I am perplexed as to how all you skinny bastards are fitting through that wedge. I got my fat ass stuck, shredded my shirt, broke my sunglasses and scratched my arms all to hell before finally getting back out and I'm only 170 pounds and just shy of 6 feet tall. Jul 30, 2014
This relates to the condition report posted a bout a loose bolt. Studs almost always wiggle as the hole is a bit bigger than the stud. The Beauty is that the more you pull on the stud the tighter it gets. Feb 12, 2014
Jackson.
Flagstaff AZ
 
Jackson.   Flagstaff AZ
 
For the record:
6'3 185 pounds
Squeezed through like jelly between two slabs of rye bread Dec 2, 2013
Did this over the weekend- one bolt of the anchor after the Wedge is loose. Down not out right? Mar 4, 2013
Steve Pulver
Williston, ND
Steve Pulver   Williston, ND
got a cam stuck last weekend. Hopefully I'll be back in the next week or two to claim it. If not, I guess its yours. Jan 24, 2013
This is a fun climb.
The Wedge is a hoax, don't sweat it.
The layback pitch is stellar- perfect rock and great moves. Worth doing the route for this pitch alone. Oct 28, 2012
Catherine Conner
Phoenix, AZ
  5.9
Catherine Conner   Phoenix, AZ
  5.9
This climb was great-a lot of variety-face, crack, roof, offwidth...

Excellent-I would say go for it, the cruxes do not last for too long and have good pro (I did Geir's recommendation for P1)-and yet there is something a little spicy for each pitch...

It was a really good day, and I would do it again! Jan 10, 2012
Engage the Wedge! Do it before the obesity epidemic in America kills the wedge forever ;) Apr 27, 2011
Angel Mangual
Sierra Vista, AZ
 
Angel Mangual   Sierra Vista, AZ
 
Good job Dashle! Thank you Joe for recommending the hootgoat variation, we did it and it was AWESOME! We couldn't decide which way to go until we reach the anchors and then we traverse right through the dike and up the cave...I recommend gearing at the base of Ewphoria, so when you hike down your stuff is right there, instead of going back to the base of Mystery of the Dessert. Nov 1, 2010
Geir
Tucson, AZ
  5.9
Geir   Tucson, AZ
  5.9
a topo for this climb can be downloaded at this link:

toofasttopos.com/free/ Oct 9, 2010
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
  5.9
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
  5.9
Pitch 4 contains a difficult to protect 20 foot traverse. As mentioned above there is one bolt and then anchors. While not too bad this could be stressful for a less experienced follower.

For the recorded I engaged the wedge. 6'0 and 175 lbs. Mar 21, 2010
Chris M
Seattle, WA
  5.9
Chris M   Seattle, WA
  5.9
I climbed this route in 4 pitches, but would do it in 3 next time:
P1: up the dihedral and over the roof to a 2 bolt belay
p2: through the wedge and up the veg to a belay below the corner
p3: up the corner, across the dike, then past the belay and up two bolts to the top
optional p4- from the large notch, follow bolts up a lichen covered face with a few gear placements to the top of Muttonhead. Rappel this pitch back to the notch and follow the standard walk-off

the Wedge isn't as bad as people make it out to be- just take your gear off, chose a direction for your head, and move with your breath Dec 3, 2009
Bill Lawry
New Mexico
  5.8+
Bill Lawry   New Mexico
  5.8+
The Wedge: NO need to engage it except as needed to clip the first bolt. Instead, I can assure that one and only one of the following techniques can significantly ease the difficulty (height independent!):

  • gaston;
  • layback;
  • stem;
  • heel hook;
  • dyno;
  • figure four.

Edit: I'm just sayin, there is an easier way than using offwidth techniques. (just say "no" to spelunking) Dec 1, 2009
Geir
Tucson, AZ
  5.9
Geir   Tucson, AZ
  5.9
be aware there is no gear for the first 15' or so of pitch 1 on 5.8 terrain. a safer alternative is to start on the bolted route immediately to the right of mystery, and then traverse left on to mystery after the 3rd bolt. Nov 26, 2009
I did this route in 4 pitches and slightly different than described above.

P1- climb left facing dihedral (40' 5.9R- to avoid this climb bolt line to left 5.10b or right 5.9 and then step in to crack) traverse left across dike, past 2 bolt anchor, and up crack to the roof. Pull the roof to 2 bolt anchor. ~140'

P2-The well discussed squeeze- if you get sucked into the bolted crack on the right, and still want to stay on Mystery of the Desert-move left after 3 bolts to stem over the squeeze to the anchor. 50' 5.7

P3- traverse left of belay on face to short hand crack to the bolted slab left of the veg. step onto more face to climb the hand crack and traverse left along dike to 2 bolt anchor 5.9 180 '

P4- climb bolted 5.8 face to top. ~80' Mar 20, 2009
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
  5.9
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
  5.9
be sure to do p6 to summit the formation. standing on the summit is an experience you'll not soon forget, plus that last pitch is a solid 3 stars by itself.

be aware that there is some sketchy gear on the route and the first pitch is 5.9R if you start in the dihedral. if you use the 2 bolts from the other route 5 feet to the right and move into the dihedral afterward it's a pretty safe 5.8. Mar 16, 2009
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
A friend and I did this line last weekend, and I thought it was a pretty good romp. Pitches 1 and 2 have more good gear than you can see from their respective beginnings. Both of us squeezed through the "Wedge"... I am 6'2 and 170 pounds. It took a while, but I made it through. Feb 19, 2009
Geir
Tucson, AZ
  5.9
Geir   Tucson, AZ
  5.9
That is the third pitch of "The Inevitable Awaits You". Jan 7, 2009
rpc
 
rpc  
 
nice route. so what's the deal with the bolted crack line that heads off right from the base of the wedge? Jan 7, 2009
Meghan
Sierra Vista, AZ
 
Meghan   Sierra Vista, AZ
 
...OK, so we took off all our GEAR except harnesses... Thanks for pointing out my sloppy language... but it would have been much more humorous if it really was EVERYTHING but the harness. That would be a funny stunt to pull. YOU get to be the one going through the squeeze chimney. I'll handle the camera this time! Dec 14, 2008
Daryl Allan
Sierra Vista, AZ
Daryl Allan   Sierra Vista, AZ
How'd you get your britches off without taking off your harness? Dec 14, 2008
Meghan
Sierra Vista, AZ
 
Meghan   Sierra Vista, AZ
 
...Eric Deschamps and I did go through the chimney... after taking our helmets and everything else besides harnesses off. Even just my knot got stuck over and over again and I'm a bony, small, person. It was great fun, though!! Good route. Dec 14, 2008
Fletch
Scottsdale
Fletch   Scottsdale
No lie! I tried to "engage the wedge." First I took off my rack and started with it ahead of me. Then my helmet got stuck. Then I got the claustrophobic panic and said "F*ck it! I'm going OW!!" And for those of you who know me, you know I don't enjoy OW. OW = Other Way!(and no, I can't take credit for making that up--I stold it from someone.)

All that aside, it was a great route, that I have now climbed several times. May 21, 2008
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
 
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
 
I would love to know who has actually "squeezed through" The Wedge. Don't be shy! May 14, 2008
Phil Persson
Denver, Colorado
Phil Persson   Denver, Colorado
Did this over Beanfest weekend, 4-12-08, wonderful route. Fun, mostly moderate climbing with good pro and minimal rotefinding. Surprised this doesn't see more action considering I think it rank's close to classics on Sheepshead like 'Too Tough to Die', 'Absinthe of Mallet', ect.. The infamous 'Wedge' on PIII is pretty unique... squueze through the heinous chimmney if you can fit... or sprice it up with a strenuous chimmney/OW section protected by 3 bolts for some nice peace of mind. The last pitch with it's excellent hand crack is also really fun. Apr 13, 2008
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
  5.9
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
  5.9
great, thanks for the info. Dec 14, 2007
The only pitch where the pro seemed a little sparse was #2. In the bolted sections the bolts are plenty close. Definitely nothing seemed all that scary but I didn't lead P2. None of the cruxes were hard to protect. Dec 13, 2007
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
  5.9
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
  5.9
can anyone tell me how the pro looks on this route? is it pretty good or are there some tricky placements before crux/difficult sections? are there enough bolts to give the leader some good peace of mind? Dec 13, 2007