All Locations > Arizona > Southern Arizona > Cochise Stronghold > West Stronghold > Sheepshead Area (… > The Muttonhead
Mystery of the Desert
Avg: 2.7 from 109 votes
|Type:||Trad, 5 pitches|
|FA:||Mike Strassman & Scott Ayers|
|Page Views:||11,283 total · 85/month|
|Shared By:||David C. Burke on Mar 7, 2007|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
DescriptionThis is a great moderate climb with varied and fun climbing from start to finish.
P1 - (5.7) Start at a prominent left facing dihedral. Climb up to the dihedral and follow this feature until a good stance on a dike. You can belay here on gear or move left along the dike about fifteen feet to a two bolt anchor.
P2 The Wedge - (5.8) Continue up and slightly left along a crack to a roof that is well protected by some bolts. Surmount the roof and continue up to a wide crack. You can squeeze through the wedge or climb up and over it via an offwidth and three bolts for pro. On the other side of the wedge there is a two bolt anchor.
P3 The Veg - (5.7) Head up to a short slightly right leaning handcrack. Climb the crack and then follow three bolts up a low angle rib of rock to a nice slot with a couple of trees for the belay. The original route took the gully to the right of the rib which is basically a ramp filled with shrubs and trees, thus the name of this pitch.
P4 - (5.9) From the slot face climb up to a beautiful 5.9 layback crack. At the top of the crack traverse left along a thin dike protected by one bolt to a two bolt belay.
P5 - (5.8) From the two bolt belay climb a short face protected by two bolts to the top. There are some stout trees at the top for a belay.