Type: Sport, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: Scott Ayers
Page Views: 44,678 total · 292/month
Shared By: Jordan Ramey on Dec 19, 2007 with improvements by Jonathan Eubanks
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Approach: ~1 hour
Time to climb Route: 4-7 hours
Descent: 1.25 hours

The Peacemaker was the name Wyatt Earp gave to his gun while he was sheriff of Tombstone.

Fantastic and sustained climbing for 7 pitches. Tightly bolted and very safe by Cochise standards. Much less committing feeling than Absinthe of Mallet due to the number of bolts. Bolts were added by the first ascentionist, so don't go chopping. The first four pitches are the best and most sustained, IMO. All pitches offer climbing at or near the 5.10a level. Most of the cruxes are slab moves and well protected. There are only a few sections that could be called runout, but all on easy ground (5.6ish). One thing to keep in mind is that just because the bolt line is railroad straight doesn't mean the climbing is. Often you'll climb left or right and step back to clip the bolts.

P1: 50m, 5.10a slab climbing past a small lip for 9 bolts. Slight runout 2/3rd of the way up. Follow the last 3 bolts up left into the chimney. The finish is on some steep ground with a little chimney move. 12 bolts, good stance belay

P2: Shorter pitch, 5.10a. Follow the bolts up the arete past several roofs with jug holds to another good stance. Awesome pitch with fun moves!

P3: Longer pitch, 5.10a up and right following the bolts. The climbing is easier to the right of the bolt line. It is possible to skip a clip or two here and stay on the easier ground to the right, but don't fall then. Finish the pitch on a bear hug of two cracks to another good stance belay

P4: IMO the crux pitch, 5.10a. Start right up the overhang from the belay and the crux is the multiple slab sections above. Look for hidden face holds. Probably harder for short people. Finishes on a great ledge right of a tree/bush

P5: Short and easier pitch. 5.10a moves off the ledge past several bolts left of the tree above, then suddenly very easy climbing leads to a gigantic ledge with bolts all over the place.

P6: 50m, <=5.10a. The original route follows the bolts up from the anchors slightly to the left. The far left route at the shuts is Stampede and those last two pitches go at 5.10d and 5.10c. The right hand line of bolts from the anchor is the last 2 pitches of Mad Cow Disease (5.10d)

P7: Can be linked with P6 with a 60m rope. Several final bolts to the top 2 bolt anchors. Continue up on 3rd class to summit and sign the register marked by an elaborate cairn pile.

Location, Topo, & Beta Pics

Located 50' right of Absinthe of Mallet. When the approach trail hits the base of the Sheepshead, skirt the base right for about 50' until you see the obviouse slab with the bolt line headed straight up. Walk-off down the descent gully on the left (North) marked with cairns.

other people's pics posted up
Pitch 1 of Peacemaker
Jay on the first pitch of Peacemaker.
Corner near the start of pitch 3 of Peacemaker

Topos:
Toofast topo
Cochise Climbing

Protection

14 draws / short slings
Optional very light rack: nuts, small to #2 camalot
Most people will skip the rack

All anchors are bomber Metolious Rap bolts (except at the top of P5, which are regular bolts, but right next to some shuts if you really wanted to rap)

Photos