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Routes in The Sheepshead

Absinthe of Mallet T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Animal Husbandry S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bantam of the Opera S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bruise the Rooster T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Burning Calves S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Climb Too Tough To Die, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Dark Horse T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Ewephoria T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Get The Flock Out Of Here T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Greedy Little Varmint T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hardskins of Our Forefathers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Ides of Middlemarch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Last Roundup, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mad Cow Disease T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Peacemaker, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Phony Pony T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stampede S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tombstone Stripper, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unmitigated Audacity S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: Scott Ayers
Page Views: 33,569 total, 278/month
Shared By: Jordan Ramey on Dec 19, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


204 Opinions

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Description

Approach: ~1 hour
Time to climb Route: 4-7 hours
Descent: 1.25 hours

The Peacemaker was the name Wyatt Erp gave to his gun while he was sheriff of Tombstone.

Fantastic and sustained climbing for 7 pitches. Tightly bolted and very safe by Cochise standards. Much less committing feeling than Absinthe of Mallet due to the number of bolts. Bolts were added by the first ascentionist, so don't go chopping. The first four pitches are the best and most sustained, IMO. All pitches offer climbing at or near the 5.10a level. Most of the cruxes are slab moves and well protected. There are only a few sections that could be called runout, but all on easy ground (5.6ish). One thing to keep in mind is that just because the bolt line is railroad straight doesn't mean the climbing is. Often you'll climb left or right and step back to clip the bolts.

P1: 50m, 5.10a slab climbing past a small lip for 9 bolts. Slight runout 2/3rd of the way up. Follow the last 3 bolts up left into the chimney. The finish is on some steep ground with a little chimney move. 12 bolts, good stance belay

P2: Shorter pitch, 5.10a. Follow the bolts up the arete past several roofs with jug holds to another good stance. Awesome pitch with fun moves!

P3: Longer pitch, 5.10a up and right following the bolts. The climbing is easier to the right of the bolt line. It is possible to skip a clip or two here and stay on the easier ground to the right, but don't fall then. Finish the pitch on a bear hug of two cracks to another good stance belay

P4: IMO the crux pitch, 5.10a. Start right up the overhang from the belay and the crux is the multiple slab sections above. Look for hidden face holds. Probably harder for short people. Finishes on a great ledge right of a tree/bush

P5: Short and easier pitch. 5.10a moves off the ledge past several bolts left of the tree above, then suddenly very easy climbing leads to a gigantic ledge with bolts all over the place.

P6: 50m, <=5.10a. The original route follows the bolts up from the anchors slightly to the left. The far left route at the shuts is Stampede and those last two pitches go at 5.10d and 5.10c. The right hand line of bolts from the anchor is the last 2 pitches of Mad Cow Disease (5.10d)

P7: Can be linked with P6 with a 60m rope. Several final bolts to the top 2 bolt anchors. Continue up on 3rd class to summit and sign the register marked by an elaborate cairn pile.

Location, Topo, & Beta Pics

Located 50' right of Absinthe of Mallet. When the approach trail hits the base of the Sheepshead, skirt the base right for about 50' until you see the obviouse slab with the bolt line headed straight up. Walk-off down the descent gully on the left (North) marked with cairns.

other people's pics posted up




Topos:
Toofast topo
Cochise Climbing

Protection

14 draws / short slings
Optional very light rack: nuts, small to #2 camalot
Most people will skip the rack

All anchors are bomber Metolious Rap bolts (except at the top of P5, which are regular bolts, but right next to some shuts if you really wanted to rap)

Photos

Kevin Kent
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Kevin Kent   Flagstaff, AZ
 
Link beta:
In addition to linking P6/7, I linked P4 and P5 and had plenty of rope to spare with a 70 (a 60 might just do it). I didn't do it but with a 70 I'm pretty sure you could also link 2 and 3 without any trouble.

I did this in the dark at like 3am in the morning so the memory isn't 100% clear and maybe I missed some holds but I thought the early part (20-30' up?) on P5 was by far the crux of this route. Furthermore I didn't bring any trad gear and thought it was totally fine. Sep 8, 2015
Nate Young
Phoenix
  5.10a/b
Nate Young   Phoenix
  5.10a/b
I found this route was a pretty good time. We initially were going to climb Absinthe of Mallet to the left about 50 feet of the start of this route, but it was a little hot int he sun so we decided against it and went with the mainly sport route.

The approach took us about 1.5 hours total, with some breaks. Don't let anyone fool you, the hill to the base is a killer if you are a desk jockey during the week like I am.

It took us (2 people) almost 6 hours total to do the full 6 pitches, with a few breaks in between. The 4th pitch is definitely the most difficult part of the route, above the 5.10a roof. I'm not the greatest at slab and found this part of the route the most difficult for me. The 6th pitch, as you climb the left facing corner, was kind of scary because the bolt line was so far to the right that you had to stand on some pretty small pebbles about 10 feet above the draw to clip.

The 5.10a/b sections on the 2nd and 4th pithes are REALLY fun once you figure out the sequences. The bolts are spaced well enough that it doesn't feel runout in many areas. Like a few other people have said, the bolt line is completely off the natural route of the wall in many places. A number of bolts on every pitch were a real stretch to clip from good stances, but they were doable.

I would recommend bringing some gear to protect a few places, but if you are used to some Cochise runouts, it won't be a big deal. The gear we used was as follows:

1st Pitch: .5 Cam between the slab to face transition
2nd Pitch: .4 Cam & smallest BD nut.
3rd Pitch: .5 Cam in the upper flake area
4th Pitch: No Gear
5th Pitch: 2 Cam above 5.10a roof
6th Pitch: .5 Cam & 2 Cam, on the upper part of the pitch below the belay bolts. Mar 27, 2014
Nate Farr
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10a
Nate Farr   Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10a
I can understand why people think P5 is the hardest if you don't find the easiest way to climb it. In my opinion every pitch has a little bit of real climbing on it and nothing is any harder than 10b Max. Expect to find a little bit of 10a on every pitch.

This route is just plain fun. The climbing is sustained at the grade, has comfortable belay ledges and none of it sucks. That equals 4 stars for me. Nov 30, 2016
Joshua Munoz
  5.10a/b PG13
Joshua Munoz  
  5.10a/b PG13
Pitch 4 is the money pitch IMO. A great test of skills. Micro crimps, traversing, foot work, and knowing how to read a route.

All around a great route. You better love slab, because there's lot of it. Great exposure! Apr 17, 2016
JoeyJa
 
JoeyJa  
 
Great route! Really well protected and fun. Not as sandbagged as absinthe and not as friction dependent.

Did not place any nuts and only placed a couple finger sized cams and a hand sized cam.

Tyler linked P6 and P7 with a 70m. We climbed this in right around 4 hours and the approach took no longer than 45 minutes. Feb 22, 2016
JMo
Tucson, AZ
  5.10
JMo   Tucson, AZ
  5.10
KK- you need more lumens. Dec 22, 2015
Benjaminadk
San Pedro, California
 
Benjaminadk   San Pedro, California
 
Really an amazing route. Much more than the low angle slab climb we thought we were getting on. Very steep in spots and sustained. Multiple roof/overhang pulls and stretches of technical steep face climbing. We ended up using a .5 camalot a few times, but other than that just draws. I think the route is well bolted letting the climber just enjoy the challenge of the moves while never being at risk of a long fall. Lots of 5.10 climbing on this one. Mar 4, 2015
Sayfe
Scottsdale, az
Sayfe   Scottsdale, az
Excellent climb... With doing all 7 pitches Feb 10, 2015
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
  5.10a
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
  5.10a
The reason pitch 6 ends where it does is likely an artifact of rope length at the time. A 50m rope, which is just over 160ft, would not have reached the final anchors. Mar 23, 2014
Kevin DB  
 
A pretty contrived route. I found myself consistently annoyed that the natural line wasn't anywhere close to the bolts, especially on the first pitch. Not sure why it sees the traffic it does, other than the fact it's so closely bolted. Feb 12, 2014
jeffrey c gibson
pheonix az
  5.10a
jeffrey c gibson   pheonix az
  5.10a
Amazing route.I found the fourth pitch to be the crux, and I recommend the light rack. Mar 3, 2012
Tim Hadfield
Steamboat Springs, Co
  5.10a/b
Tim Hadfield   Steamboat Springs, Co
  5.10a/b
Can't believe how much fun this route is! Well bolted, great topo (thanks Geir), and giggly fun movement. We did place a total of 4 finger sized pieces. Two at the top of the first pitch and two higher up on the route. I probably could have gotten away with just one piece at the top of the first pitch, but hey, I like to place gear. I am looking forward to doing more on the Sheepshead... Feb 1, 2011
Alex McIntyre
Tucson, AZ
  5.10a
Alex McIntyre   Tucson, AZ
  5.10a
I was at Sheepshead New Year's Day after the massive winter storm- there was snow EVERYWHERE! All of the routes on Sheepshead that we saw were encased in snow and ice. The ice had melted by the next day and it appeared dry but there was water running down the weird moves into the chimney and up to the first pitch belay stance. Jan 14, 2011
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
Hah. To the gathering fray over gear/no gear, I'll add that if you are cool simul climbing Peacemaker like Mike here, then definitely don't bring extra gear. It's true the cruxes are all well protected, but, being more in that range, I still think the average 5.10 leader will want some supplementary pro. But if you got the head for it, disregard my continued whining - if you haven't the head for it, well, it's gonna suck. Jan 1, 2011
Mike
Phoenix
  5.10a
Mike   Phoenix
  5.10a
It has been awhile, but I don't remember bringing or needing gear to supplement the bolts. I guess a few finger-ish pieces wouldn't hurt though.

The first time I did this we arrived at the base shortly after noon, simul-climbed it as a party of 3 in a couple hours, and were back at camp well before dark. What a great day on an awesome piece of stone! Dec 19, 2010
John Hayes
Bend, OR
  5.10a
John Hayes   Bend, OR
  5.10a
John Rich and I did this route last week without a rack. Although I've done the route a number of times, I forgot that there are some pretty sporty sections if you don't have any pro. The clip of the last bolt on the first pitch is done 30'-40' out and it's a bit of tricky clip. Once you figure it out, it isn't that hard but it would be a nasty fall if you screw up. A small rack of a few medium to small friends would fix almost all of the runouts. Peacemaker is really a classic with superb climbing in a great position. Every pitch is thoughtful; though most of it seems like 5.10a to me. Dec 18, 2010
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10c/d PG13
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10c/d PG13
a fairly burly start to my cochise experience- i found this route to be more on the .10+ side of .10a, but to each his own. fairly sustained climbing- especially if you dont drift left or right enough (as i discovered on the 4th pitch).

the fifth pitch, though, no matter how you do those moves is .10+ imho.

no rack needed- its casual, never run out enough to make you nervous.

the last pitch was weird- got lost in the bolts, ended up finishing left of the route, we think, as i wasnt up for another mystery .10+ slab move. Mar 15, 2010
Geir
Tucson, AZ
 
Geir   Tucson, AZ
 
hahaha! well, don't worry about whining, you guys. as far as the scary clips go, they are just my opinion. i'll check out that first pitch clip again next time i'm up there. be safe and have fun out there! :) Feb 28, 2010
Bill Lawry
New Mexico
  5.10a
Bill Lawry   New Mexico
  5.10a
I agree with Zeke regarding the P3/P1 "scary clip" conundrum.

Bill L - yet another whiny bitch. :-) Feb 24, 2010
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
This is a great climb and fairly sustained. It seems especially so when you're getting furiously hailed on!

Per the rack comments: It's great that some people are having fun with the whole "no rack necessary" thing, but, even being what I'd consider a pretty solid 5.10 leader, I was more than happy to have a rack up to 1". Hauling up a few pieces adds almost no weight and gives the leader reasonable protection at a few points where it would NOT be advisable to fall. Advising otherwise may be a disservice to people not as comfortable at the grade or as familiar with the area.

Also, the topo Geir provides is excellent. Although, my partner and I disagreed with the "scary clip" comment indicated on the topo. It appears to say "scary clip" next to the first bolt on the third pitch, whereas my partner and I both agreed the only scary clip on the route was clipping the last bolt on the first. This may be an oversight in the topo, or perhaps we're just whiny bitches. Feb 23, 2010
Geir
Tucson, AZ
 
Geir   Tucson, AZ
 
A new topo for this climb is now available. You can download it by clicking this link:

toofasttopos.com/free/

Enjoy! Apr 2, 2009
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
  5.10-
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
  5.10-
haha rick, come on, man! i thought this climb was excellent! the climbing is stellar and the runouts on easy ground (assuming you don't bring any gear) really keep you on your toes! Mar 16, 2009
Boodge Nomchompski
  5.10a/b
Boodge Nomchompski  
  5.10a/b
No rack needed whatsoever. I agree that pitch 4 is the probably the toughest, but every pitch has climbing at the grade. Jan 31, 2009
David Lammers
Grand Junction, CO
 
David Lammers   Grand Junction, CO
 
Pitch 4: When the leader reaches a short gully with some sticks and dirt in it they are at the last bolt and should continue straight up to the anchors. There is a route to the right of Peacemaker that comes very near and could tempt the leader to follow that line of bolts.
Pitch 6-7: Very easy to link up these two pitches with a 60 meter. There are many routes up here and I think I may have finished on a different route. But they are all 5.10.
Very fun route and the bolts protected it well. Jan 17, 2009
Bret  
If this grade is near your limit, I'd recommend a single set of cams up to #1 BD and a set of nuts. There's maybe 4-6 placements across the first few pitches, YMMV. The climbing is great, maybe my fave on the buttress. First time I did it, I was struck by how much of the climbing is at grade, seemed like at least half of the moves on the route were 5.10 or 10-. Feb 27, 2008
Phil Persson
Denver, Colorado
Phil Persson   Denver, Colorado
Great Route; did this on 1-21-08, Every pitch is excellent, some moderately tricky, balancy face moves on PI and PIV and some mild runout's keep things interesting for sure, and the feeling of exposure being up there is incredible. We did this in 7 pitches but in hindsight you can easily link P6 and P7 into one long pitch with a 60 or 70M rope. Very well bolted for the most part, a few runouts on easy chickenhead hiking which can optionallyh be protected by slinging small chickenheads or throwing in some small pieces [only piece I placed was a .5 camalot on PI]. Overall a stellar route; definitely recommend it... now to give 'Too tough to Die" and "Ewephoria' a try.. :) Jan 23, 2008
Definitely a nice route. A lot more frictiony than TTTD and without any real runouts. As far as rack goes, I used a couple of small aliens to calm me down but nothing any bigger. Probably not worth bothering with a rack though. Dec 20, 2007