Avg: 3.1 from 372 votes
|Type:||Trad, 750 ft (227 m), 5 pitches|
|Page Views:||46,921 total · 275/month|
|Shared By:||Mike on Sep 17, 2006|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
P1: Up the dihedral until a bolt leads out left, then up to a bolted belay. This pitch looks super-easy from the ground but is surprisingly harder than it looks. Gear: small to 3".
P2: Move left for a move or 2, then up past bolts & small cams.Then climb up and right to a bolted belay just left of the gully. Do not go all the way to the gully. Gear: a few small-medium-ish cams.
P3: Follow the tightly bolted line up a slippery slab to a headwall. More bolts take you up and right past the headwall. Run it out a bit on giant holds to a bolted belay amid the huge chickenheads. It is possible to get some gear by slinging chickenheads and/or large nuts/hexes between the plates. Gear: a couple big nuts/hexes and some long runners.
P4: Climb straight up past more chickenheads, then up and right past bolts to a large ledge & comfy, bolted belay. Gear: 1 or 2 large slings or cord to wrap chickenheads.
P5: The regular route then follows the large chimney on your right up to the top (the original finish for Absinthe) or for a much better option, finish on on Too Tough To Die, which goes at 5.8. To do this, follow bolts up from the belay to a huge chickenhead. Surmount this, then climb up and right past bolts on an exposed slab to the top. Gear: an optional large nut/hex for the big chickenhead.
To descend follow cairns down and left to the obvious gully on the North side, then follow the trail back to the start.
For topos & more information check out these two links: