All Locations > Arizona > Southern Arizona > Cochise Stronghold > West Stronghold > Sheepshead Area (… > The Sheepshead
Avg: 2.8 from 31 votes
|Type:||Trad, 790 ft, 6 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Scott Ayers & Steve Amter (1987). Scott Ayers, Charlie King & Tanya Bok|
|Page Views:||3,273 total · 31/month|
|Shared By:||Geir on Apr 28, 2009|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
DescriptionThis is a terrific route which starts in the crack system directly left of Peacemaker. Although the climb ascends the relatively unappealing-looking gully and chimney left of Peacemaker, don't let the appearance deceive you ... this a great, fun route.
Pitch 1 (5.9, 180'): Start in a short crack about 10' left of the start of Peacemaker. Climb past two bolts to gain the large, right facing crack/corner. Climb up this feature until it joins the bolted climb to the right (the first pitch of Peacemaker). Continue on Peacemaker a few moves (protecting on bolts) as it turns left into the chimney system. Instead of heading up and right to Peacemaker's anchors, continue up into the chimney to a two bolt anchor.
Pitch 2 (5.10a/b, 145'): Climb up the gully on easy terrain clipping a few spaced-out bolts. As the gully steepens and heads toward a chimney, the bolts are placed closer together. You will encounter an interesting 5.10 a/b stemming move just before you enter the chimney. Continue up the chimney protecting with bolts and gear. Exit the chimney and belay at a two bolt anchor.
Pitch 3 (5.10a, 120'): Start up and slightly right on thin cracks (10a) protected by a bolt. Place gear to protect more moves up the crack until you gain a series of bolts headed up and left to a bulge. Pull the bulge (10a) and head up and right to an anchor below a roof.
Pitch 4 (5.10a, 160'): Transfer the belay 15 feet left to a comfortable ledge; tie off a large tree as your new anchor. Head straight up the corner to a bolt protecting a fun bulge move (5.9). At the top of the bulge move six feet right into a crack. Ascend the crack protecting with gear until bolts lead you to short traverse right (10a). Continue upward placing gear and following bolts to a two bolt anchor.
Pitch 5 (5.10 a/b, 140'): An excellent pitch. Head up and slightly left on tricky face moves (10a/b) over a bulge. Continue up excellent slab climbing to a two bolt anchor left of a shrub.
(The anchor for the final pitch of Stampede is on the other side of the shrub, offering an alternative, difficult finish to this climb)
Pitch 6 (5.7, 50'): Easy 5.7 climbing past three bolts to the top. Belay with a gear anchor that takes 2-4" cams in a crack under a huge boulder on your left. This is the same belay at which Absinthe of Mallet ends.
Descent: walk off from the summit.
A topo including this climb can be downloaded by clicking this link: