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Routes in The Sheepshead

Absinthe of Mallet T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Animal Husbandry S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bantam of the Opera S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bruise the Rooster T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Burning Calves S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Climb Too Tough To Die, The T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Dark Horse T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ewephoria T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Get The Flock Out Of Here T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Greedy Little Varmint T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hardskins of Our Forefathers T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Ides of Middlemarch T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Last Roundup, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mad Cow Disease T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Peacemaker, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Phony Pony T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stampede S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tombstone Stripper, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unmitigated Audacity S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, 790 ft, 6 pitches, Grade II
FA: Scott Ayers & Steve Amter (1987). Scott Ayers, Charlie King & Tanya Bok
Page Views: 3,400 total · 30/month
Shared By: Geir on Apr 28, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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37 Opinions

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Description

This is a terrific route which starts in the crack system directly left of Peacemaker. Although the climb ascends the relatively unappealing-looking gully and chimney left of Peacemaker, don't let the appearance deceive you ... this a great, fun route.

Pitch 1 (5.9, 180'): Start in a short crack about 10' left of the start of Peacemaker. Climb past two bolts to gain the large, right facing crack/corner. Climb up this feature until it joins the bolted climb to the right (the first pitch of Peacemaker). Continue on Peacemaker a few moves (protecting on bolts) as it turns left into the chimney system. Instead of heading up and right to Peacemaker's anchors, continue up into the chimney to a two bolt anchor.

Pitch 2 (5.10a/b, 145'): Climb up the gully on easy terrain clipping a few spaced-out bolts. As the gully steepens and heads toward a chimney, the bolts are placed closer together. You will encounter an interesting 5.10 a/b stemming move just before you enter the chimney. Continue up the chimney protecting with bolts and gear. Exit the chimney and belay at a two bolt anchor.

Pitch 3 (5.10a, 120'): Start up and slightly right on thin cracks (10a) protected by a bolt. Place gear to protect more moves up the crack until you gain a series of bolts headed up and left to a bulge. Pull the bulge (10a) and head up and right to an anchor below a roof.

Pitch 4 (5.10a, 160'): Transfer the belay 15 feet left to a comfortable ledge; tie off a large tree as your new anchor. Head straight up the corner to a bolt protecting a fun bulge move (5.9). At the top of the bulge move six feet right into a crack. Ascend the crack protecting with gear until bolts lead you to short traverse right (10a). Continue upward placing gear and following bolts to a two bolt anchor.

Pitch 5 (5.10 a/b, 140'): An excellent pitch. Head up and slightly left on tricky face moves (10a/b) over a bulge. Continue up excellent slab climbing to a two bolt anchor left of a shrub.

(The anchor for the final pitch of Stampede is on the other side of the shrub, offering an alternative, difficult finish to this climb)

Pitch 6 (5.7, 50'): Easy 5.7 climbing past three bolts to the top. Belay with a gear anchor that takes 2-4" cams in a crack under a huge boulder on your left. This is the same belay at which Absinthe of Mallet ends.

Descent: walk off from the summit.

A topo including this climb can be downloaded by clicking this link:

toofasttopos.com/free/absin…

Location

Start just left of Peacemaker.

Protection

A full rack to 4" is needed primarily for the first pitch. Doubles of red, gold, and blue Camalot suggested. Gear is used throughout the remainder of the climb, but not to the same extent.
Chris M
Seattle, WA
  5.10a
Chris M   Seattle, WA
  5.10a
if you don't want to carry a full rack you can begin this climb on the 1st pitch of Peacemaker- you could probably get away with just a green & yellow alien and a #3.5 BD cam (new #4). Dec 3, 2009
Catherine Conner
Phoenix, AZ
Catherine Conner   Phoenix, AZ
I had a great time on this route. Pitch one is a great long mostly trad line with a few bolts to clip. Pitch two-wooh nice slippy squeeze chimney type of deal with bolts and some gear if you want (all over body work-out)/fun though. Pitch 3 is slabby with a roof type move. Pitch 4 has a roof type move then slab. Pitch 5 slab/bulge/slab. Pitch 6 is just a shorty to get to the top. Very fun with a variety of climbing. Feb 2, 2010
Dana Ernst  
 
This is an okay route, but personally my least favorite on the wall. Pitch 5 is excellent and pitch 4 is quite good, too. My partner and I didn't enjoy pitch 2 very much. Also, I don't recommend climbing the second pitch with a pack on. Dec 17, 2013
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
 
Fantastic and gorgeous welcome back to Cochise climbing after much time on Granite Mountain. Reading the above, I suspect that your enjoyment of this climb will be based on your appreciation of diverse climbing styles and some good burly off-width mixed into classic trad and typical Cochise face/slab stuff. Loved it! Mar 27, 2016
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
 
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
 
Pretty good route with lots of varied climbing. We took almost a double set to #2 Camalot and one number 3. Way overkill. A single set to #2 with maybe one #3.5 Camalot and some nuts would be fine.

At the top of pitch 3, clip the anchor bolts and then head down and left to belay up the second. Moving the belay is a waste of time. Tie off to a small tree on the big ledge at the base of the corner.

For the last pitch clip up the 3 bolts and then just go way over the top to belay. No cams or gear needed as you will be laying on the summit to belay. Jan 2, 2017
Daryl Allan
Sierra Vista, AZ
Daryl Allan   Sierra Vista, AZ
Russ Walling wrote:For the last pitch clip up the 3 bolts and then just go way over the top to belay. No cams or gear needed as you will be laying on the summit to belay.
Just out of curiosity, what would the plan be if you needed to escape a belay without an anchor? With a 1-2" horizontal crack directly behind you, is there any technical reason to not slam a couple cams in or is it just a time saving/speed thing? Jan 3, 2017
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
 
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
 
To escape the belay I would just let go of the rope and let the 130ft of rope laying on the slab do the dirty work. Jan 3, 2017
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
"With a 1-2" horizontal crack directly behind you, is there any technical reason to not slam a couple cams in or is it just a time saving/speed thing?"

Actually I did set a two piece belay WAY at the top, long past the block noted which seemed very premature and a false summit to boot. Tons of rope, past a bush and a partner still in shoes (vs. socks).. #Bomber Jan 8, 2017
JMo
Tucson, AZ
  5.10a/b
JMo   Tucson, AZ
  5.10a/b
.3 to 4 singles is more than enough. P1 is great plus starting on peacemaker saves barely any gear as you pretty much want singles above p1 anyway. This route is quality but expect quite a higher burl factor than the other sheepshead 10a’s. Jan 6, 2018
walmongr
Gilbert AZ
 
walmongr   Gilbert AZ
 
Great route. We did the first pitch of peacemaker to keep the rack light plus I love pitch 1 of Peacemaker. Only placed a few pieces here and their on the rest of the climb. Singles .4 to 3 and a set of nuts was plenty. Thought the second pitch was the hardest my partner is 5'8 and disagreed but I am a terrible chimney climber!! Pitch 5 is one of the best slab pitches on the Sheepshead IMO rates up their with pitch 1 of stamped and the and pitch 6-7 of Absinthe Jan 26, 2018

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