Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Scott Ayers & Jeff Fascett
Page Views: 1,351 total · 21/month
Shared By: Hendrixson on Oct 14, 2013
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

A short, hard, sport route in the Stronghold? Tiny But Exciting is proof that they exist.

Delicately ascend featureless vertical stone for three bolts to reach the weakness found on the underside of the roof. Careful feet and powerful arms are required to transition to the right and eventually surmount the roof. Pull up using the generous jugs and engage a left leaning seam to the chains.

The climbing on this route is fantastic and varied. Other than the crumbly rock at the lip of the roof the rock is exceptional as well.

Location

Located on the southeast face of Muttonhead (aka Sheepshit Dome), Tiny But Exciting is found midway up the gully between Sheepshead and Muttonhead. The route can be identified by the large low roof and the nearby green streaks. Tiny But Exciting is passed on the walk-off from Sheepshead.

Protection

Approximately 8 bolts to chains.

Photos

Toast with Butter
Tempe, AZ
  5.12a
Toast with Butter   Tempe, AZ
  5.12a
I think this climb looks amazing and the moves are fantastic. Crazy corners and magical features Mar 7, 2015
Adrian Montano
Tucson, AZ
  5.12a
Adrian Montano   Tucson, AZ
  5.12a
Because I'm not sure anyone is going to hike out here just for this, I highly recommend trying to convince your partner to stop by this after walking off the Sheepshead. They might think you're nuts but you'll be rewarded with a gem of a Cochise sport climb. Well bolted & super safe by any standards.
Don't read on if you want to onsight. I thought the roof would be the crux, but it's actually the easiest part. The slab at the start is delicate, technical, and will finish off whatever juice you have left in your calves/toes, as well as leave you wondering how you reached the roof. Pulling the roof is pure fun. The seam at the top packs a punch if you're tired but every move on this climb is fun and the position is great. A Tiny part of the Stronghold that'll leave a big smile on your face. Oct 15, 2017
Well said Adrian. Lots of those new shorter routes on the E Muttonhead and the Barnyard wall are great to add on at the end of the day if you want a little extra. Oct 17, 2017