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Routes in The Muttonhead

Full Metal Hootgat T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Have You Seen It? S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
I'm Your Huckleberry S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
In Water There Is Life S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Inevitable Awaits You, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mystery of the Desert T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No More Credit From the Liquor Store S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Oops, I Sharted T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Seeing is Believing T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Tiny But Exciting S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tour Buses Welcome S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Scott Ayers, et al.
Page Views: 1,463 total, 15/month
Shared By: Geir on Oct 4, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

This is a bolted climb which starts 10' left of Mystery of the Desert.

Pitch 1 (10d, 90'): Climb past 11 bolts to a bolted anchor. Keep well to the right of the bolts after the 4th bolt, crux moves are near the 2nd and 9th bolts.

Pitch 2 (11a, 85'): Head up and slightly left from the anchor. Pass 6 bolts on your way toward a roof. Pass the roof on its left side, making the crux move to reach a dike. Move to the right about 10' to the anchor.

Pitch 3 (10d, 90): Step right on to easy ground and move up to a bolted crack. Climb the crack as the climbing gradually becomes more difficult toward its end. Move left away from the crack at its end (10+) then head up and right to the anchor. This would have been stellar as a mixed pitch (bolts are needed to protect the middle third of the pitch), however, for better or worse, it is entirely bolted.

One more easy pitch can be done if you have gear. Otherwise rap the route.

A topo for this climb can be downloaded from

toofasttopos.com/free/

Location

Starts approx 10' left of Mystery of the Desert.

Protection

All bolts

Photos

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Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.11a
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.11a
For those new to the area, the first pitch is a good introduction to harder Cochise slab. And you can just lower off if you want. After the first bit, it's more friction and smearing like the first pitch of Warpaint than microedging like the first pitch of Stampede. Dec 19, 2010
manuel rangel
Arizona
 
manuel rangel   Arizona
 
Loved the route but I was sandbagged into believing it was a 5.10c crux. I did fall and finally figure it out; crux bulge move is exciting and well protected. Feb 27, 2010