Mountain Project Logo

Routes in The Tombstone

Dark Shadows T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Old School Executioner T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Stiletto T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Tombstone Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: MC, ETR 1987
Page Views: 4,865 total, 49/month
Shared By: eMurdock on Nov 10, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


24 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Continuous hand crack on left side of north face; you can't miss it. Sustained crack with a crux at the end. There is gear at the pumpy crux, but you have to work for it. You might want to save a wide-hands size cam for the last bit after the crux. This might be one of the best hand crack pitches in the Stronghold.

Location

Left side of north face. Scramble (might want a rope) 30 feet to belay ledge. 30' rappel (after a 150' double rope rappel from the top of the formation) from 2 bolt anchor below ledge gets you to the ground.

Protection

Standard doubles rack to #3 Camalot and a #4 might be useful.

Photos

Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
Seemed like good gear the whole way on this thing. I got to catch a pretty big whip on this one yesterday. Beautiful line! Apr 3, 2017
Adam Pecan
Moab, UT
 
Adam Pecan   Moab, UT
 
Excellent! G rated Dec 30, 2015
Great climb! Mostly crack climbing until the high crux where a variety of techniques are needed. Crux initially looks like a hard to protect narrow groove but the cunning climber can get good 1, 2 or three camalot in half way up.
I'll give this one 11-. Nov 19, 2012
Steve Pulver
Williston, ND
Steve Pulver   Williston, ND
The longest fall I ever caught was on this route (the leader's top piece, or 2 pieces came out). Thankfully, it turned out to be a clean fall.

I remember looking up and seeing him start to come off, then looking down at my belay device, bracing for a fall. There was a split second where I was thinking "oh, I guess he didn't fall,"... then rope starts falling down around me... Apr 21, 2011
1Eric Rhicard
  5.10+
1Eric Rhicard  
  5.10+
Not sure why this got a PG-13. Good pro from top to bottom. Apr 21, 2011
1Eric Rhicard
  5.10+
1Eric Rhicard  
  5.10+
Single rope if you rap to anchors on Old School Executioner. We sent one down on a single line then the second went to the hanging anchors on Old school, pulled and threaded then rapped the rest of the way. A lot easier if you don't go to your middle mark. Pulling the rope from the upper anchor when at the hanging anchor is a little tough so the less you have to pull through the better. Apr 21, 2011
1Eric Rhicard
  5.10+
1Eric Rhicard  
  5.10+
I was wrong. Possible FA by Earl Wiggans. Apr 21, 2011
Geir
Tucson, AZ
  5.10+ PG13
Geir   Tucson, AZ
  5.10+ PG13
A terrific pitch of climbing. Sustained and challenging. A wide section up 3/4 of the way requires at least a #4 to protect, save a #3 for to protect the final moves to the anchors. Mar 14, 2011