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Routes in The Tombstone

Dark Shadows T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Old School Executioner T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Stiletto T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Tombstone Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Type: Trad, Sport, 115 ft
FA: EFR, DDC, BKy, 1990
Page Views: 3,034 total, 37/month
Shared By: Andy Bennett on Mar 11, 2011 with updates
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Description

One of the best arete climbs around, this thing knifes into the blue, just begging to be climbed.

Location

Located up the chimney right of the Old School Executioner. You have to chimney up and scramble to the arete. Descend either via double rope rappel to the ledge, or a single 70m rope to the chimney where you started the climb.

Protection

Hand sized cams protect the first 15 feet to bolts
J.Kruse
Las Cruces, NM
  5.11b
J.Kruse   Las Cruces, NM
  5.11b
Friend lead the route, I followed. He had some holds break on him, be aware of loose rock on the lower portion of the route. Definitely worth climbing for the movement and crazy position of the upper half, it was gnarly even with a top rope. Real beauty of a climb. Oct 23, 2017
1Eric Rhicard
  5.11
1Eric Rhicard  
  5.11
The crack to the left of old school executioner was done before Dave Deschamps, Bob Kerry and I did it. We mistakenly thought we had done the FA. Steve never did Stiletto. I talked to him about the crack and he never mentioned the arete except to say he had looked at it. I lead this pitch after Dave D. backed off after placing one or two bolts. I remember him yelling at me to keep going when I added another bolt that wasn't far enough above his last one. This was done ground up with no falls. Probably should add a bolt low so it is a total clip up. Most folks already have a rack up there though. Sep 19, 2016
James, Steve and I looked at this line during the spring 87 beanfest, the first ever held in the West Stronghold, which was pretty obscure at the time. He wasn't convinced he could drill on the lead, so we passed it by for another couple routes that weekend. I doubt Eric would retrobolt one of Steve's lines, and I doubt Steve would leave it that way if it happened. Sep 14, 2016
This is a bit sandbagged at 10+ IMO. Found an old topo recently. Apparently this is an old Grossman route that was retro- bolted by EFR. Sep 6, 2016
Sean C
SLC
 
Sean C   SLC
 
Sharp sharp sharp! Fun moves with awesome positioning. Must do if in the area! Mar 2, 2015
Geir
Tucson, AZ
  5.11b
Geir   Tucson, AZ
  5.11b
This is one of the most aesthetic single pitch climbs that I have done in the stronghold. Fun movement on a beautiful feature. Mar 14, 2011