Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m)
FA: EFR, Geir Hundal, Marcy Makarewicz, '11
Page Views: 10,551 total · 89/month
Shared By: 1Eric Rhicard on Apr 17, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Brian Boyd

You & This Route


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Description

Geir lead this climb over three days hanging a lot aiding a little and hooking to drill 3 bolts before joining Stiletto. After working on it a bit we decided to put anchors at 100 feet where the first bolt was placed as we felt it would make a fantastic 100% trad route at the grade. The last thirty feet between the anchors and Stiletto are a lot harder and will make a great extension when someone decides to put the effort into climbing it.

This is a great crack climb to some fun hard face climbing with good rock and bomber if not small gear. A 0 TCU is hard to place but critical for protecting the last 15 ft. We both proved that a 0 TCU will handle 25 footers.

Location

On the N. face of the Tombstone on the overhanging orange face.

Protection

0 TCU to blue camalot. Double or triple up on finger sized to fat finger size. The crack takes stoppers well too and we used a number of them.

Photos