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Routes in The Tombstone

Dark Shadows T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Old School Executioner T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Stiletto T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Tombstone Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: EFR, Geir Hundal, Marcy Makarewicz, '11
Page Views: 8,286 total, 102/month
Shared By: 1Eric Rhicard on Apr 17, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Geir lead this climb over three days hanging a lot aiding a little and hooking to drill 3 bolts before joining Stiletto. After working on it a bit we decided to put anchors at 100 feet where the first bolt was placed as we felt it would make a fantastic 100% trad route at the grade. The last thirty feet between the anchors and Stiletto are a lot harder and will make a great extension when someone decides to put the effort into climbing it.

This is a great crack climb to some fun hard face climbing with good rock and bomber if not small gear. A 0 TCU is hard to place but critical for protecting the last 15 ft. We both proved that a 0 TCU will handle 25 footers.

Location

On the N. face of the Tombstone on the overhanging orange face.

Protection

0 TCU to blue camalot. Double or triple up on finger sized to fat finger size. The crack takes stoppers well too and we used a number of them.
Geir
Tucson, AZ
  5.12c
Geir   Tucson, AZ
  5.12c
Yeah Brian!! Glad to hear you got on this climb! Congrats! :) Jan 8, 2016
Brian Prince
morro bay, ca
 
Brian Prince   morro bay, ca
 
this thing is a friggin gem! like wow.. I'll admit to having toproped it first (though perhaps not into submission), which is easy to do after climbing tombstone crack or another. the extension looks ridiculous, maybe in a good way, but I can't say.. Jan 5, 2016
Alex McIntyre
Tucson, AZ
Alex McIntyre   Tucson, AZ
Has anyone put some work into the extension? How hard is it projected to be? Nov 6, 2014
Daryl Allan
Sierra Vista, AZ
Daryl Allan   Sierra Vista, AZ
Bold send Geir,.. Awesome!! Wish I could have seen it. d May 10, 2012
Geir
Tucson, AZ
  5.12c
Geir   Tucson, AZ
  5.12c
Thanks everyone, you all have made this one of my favorite climbs. Gotta love the climbing at the Tombstone. May 2, 2012
Nice job Geir. Love the motivated positive attiude you brought to the crag each time. You earned it so enjoy the success. May 1, 2012
Josh Janes    
Oh yeah!!!! May 1, 2012
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
Nice Geir! That is awesome on so many levels. Apr 30, 2012
Marcy
Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Marcy   Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
And the hard-earned red-point goes to Geir today! He meticulously worked the route ground up, figured out the beta and gear, and put everything together in an amazing send today. I'm sure anyone over on the west side of the Stronghold likely heard him celebrating. Apr 30, 2012
Geir
Tucson, AZ
  5.12c
Geir   Tucson, AZ
  5.12c
Hahaha Christian! Thanks for catching the typo. I've proofread my post now. :) Apr 19, 2011
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
Looks awesome! Nice work Geir, Marcy, Eric, et al. Apr 18, 2011
Christian
Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
Nice work guys! 4/19 is tomorrow, although I'm pretty sure EFR could send routes in the past, present and future :-) Apr 18, 2011
Geir
Tucson, AZ
  5.12c
Geir   Tucson, AZ
  5.12c
This stellar climb ranks among the most difficult free climbs in Cochise Stonghold. It has fists, hands, and killer finger locks for most of the way with a few spicy face moves at the top.

Marcy was an exceptionally good sport in the cold, windy weather as she caught dozens of falls while I worked on the moves and gear. Eric took a 30 footer figuring out the crux and we both took 25 footers on to a 0 TCU protecting the final hard sequence. Eric sent today (4/17/11) in a superb effort. Congrats!!

This route also serves as a reminder that great routes can be established ground up. It is not necessary to toprope routes into submission and rap bolt them into oblivion, even if they are near or at your limit. Ground-up development is far more challenging and therefore rewarding; it is also better aligned with the staunch traditional ethic embraced by the majority of Stronghold FAs. Apr 18, 2011