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Old School Executioner [Suggest Change]
5.12 YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 3.9 from 10
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Routes in The Tombstone
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Dark Shadows T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Old School Executioner T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Stiletto T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Tombstone Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft |
| FA: | EFR, Geir Hundal, Marcy Makarewicz, '11 |
| Page Views: | 8,520 total · 97/month |
| Shared By: | 1Eric Rhicard on Apr 17, 2011 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick |
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Description [Suggest Change]
Geir lead this climb over three days hanging a lot aiding a little and hooking to drill 3 bolts before joining Stiletto. After working on it a bit we decided to put anchors at 100 feet where the first bolt was placed as we felt it would make a fantastic 100% trad route at the grade. The last thirty feet between the anchors and Stiletto are a lot harder and will make a great extension when someone decides to put the effort into climbing it.
This is a great crack climb to some fun hard face climbing with good rock and bomber if not small gear. A 0 TCU is hard to place but critical for protecting the last 15 ft. We both proved that a 0 TCU will handle 25 footers.
This is a great crack climb to some fun hard face climbing with good rock and bomber if not small gear. A 0 TCU is hard to place but critical for protecting the last 15 ft. We both proved that a 0 TCU will handle 25 footers.
Protection [Suggest Change]
0 TCU to blue camalot. Double or triple up on finger sized to fat finger size. The crack takes stoppers well too and we used a number of them.
Tucson, AZ
Marcy was an exceptionally good sport in the cold, windy weather as she caught dozens of falls while I worked on the moves and gear. Eric took a 30 footer figuring out the crux and we both took 25 footers on to a 0 TCU protecting the final hard sequence. Eric sent today (4/17/11) in a superb effort. Congrats!!
This route also serves as a reminder that great routes can be established ground up. It is not necessary to toprope routes into submission and rap bolt them into oblivion, even if they are near or at your limit. Ground-up development is far more challenging and therefore rewarding; it is also better aligned with the staunch traditional ethic embraced by the majority of Stronghold FAs. Apr 18, 2011
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