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Old School Executioner
5.12 YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 3.8 from 19
votes
Routes in The Tombstone
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Blunderbust T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Cochise Stronghold Garden Gnome, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Dark Shadows T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Laid to Rest T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Old School Executioner T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Stiletto T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Tombstone Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
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| Type: | Trad, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | EFR, Geir Hundal, Marcy Makarewicz, '11 |
| Page Views: | 12,203 total · 88/month |
| Shared By: | 1Eric Rhicard on Apr 17, 2011 |
| Admins: | adrian montano, Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman |
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Description
Geir lead this climb over three days hanging a lot aiding a little and hooking to drill 3 bolts before joining Stiletto. After working on it a bit we decided to put anchors at 100 feet where the first bolt was placed as we felt it would make a fantastic 100% trad route at the grade. The last thirty feet between the anchors and Stiletto are a lot harder and will make a great extension when someone decides to put the effort into climbing it.
This is a great crack climb to some fun hard face climbing with good rock and bomber if not small gear. A 0 TCU is hard to place but critical for protecting the last 15 ft. We both proved that a 0 TCU will handle 25 footers.
This is a great crack climb to some fun hard face climbing with good rock and bomber if not small gear. A 0 TCU is hard to place but critical for protecting the last 15 ft. We both proved that a 0 TCU will handle 25 footers.
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