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Routes in Squaretop

Cragaholic's Dream T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Elevation: 5,900 ft
Page Views: 4,110 total, 34/month
Shared By: Geir on Feb 20, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

Description

Squaretop is the formation that appears flat-topped when looking at the skyline of the west Stronghold. It is home to one of the Stronghold's best routes, Cragaholic's Dream. To approach Lower Squaretop, where Cragaholic's starts, follow the directions below.


Getting There

Drive into the West Stronghold to the end of the road. For directions to this point, see climbaz.com/Backcountry/gra…

For an overhead view of the approach use the .kmz file at this address:

geir.com/googleearth/strong…

From the parking area, take the righthand wash (the one next to the fence by the start of the path leading to the East Stronghold). Stay in the main wash, keeping an eye on Westworld dome to your left. After about half a mile, the wash curves to the northeast and heads toward Squaretop. Stay in the wash until Lower Squaretop is to your right and you can see the distinctive triangular roof on the second pitch of Cragaholic's Dream. When the climb is directly above you in the wash, you will find a gully that is easy to follow to the base of the cliff. If you don't make any wrong turns the approach takes about 45 minutes. Total approach distance is just over a mile.

1 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Squaretop

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cragaholic's Dream
Trad 6 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Cragaholic's Dream 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 6 pitches
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Photos

Geir
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
Topo updated. Thanks Jim! Nov 20, 2012
Just did Cragaholics with Jack Tackle on 11/17/12. Very good climb....actually a trad climb in an area falsely noted for being trad oriented.
I'll never understand why descriptions say you MUST stem/lieback the first part of second pitch. Rightside in heel/toeing works fine and is much more secure.
To keep the rope from hanging up on the second rap have the first climber rap to new anchors 30 feet above the sling anchors of the last rappel. Then have the second rap to the sling anchor. The first climber then pulls the rope and does a short rap to the slings. From the sling anchors it is one 200 ft. rappel to the ground. Nov 19, 2012
BenJamN
Washington State
BenJamN   Washington State
Anyone ever climb Barking Lizard? Sounds like a good time according to Kerry's book...
climbaz.com/Backcountry/pag…
page two of first ascent...
climbaz.com/Backcountry/pag… Mar 5, 2009
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
lots of wide stuff on this dome. Feb 12, 2009
Possiblity for some ultra high quality bouldering in and around the wash on the way to Squaretop. The hike would probably take 45 minutes with pads. Jan 19, 2009

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