Type: Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: Dave DesChamps, Joe Astier, and Bob Kerry
Page Views: 7,940 total · 50/month
Shared By: Geir www.ToofastTopos.com on Feb 20, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Brian Boyd

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Cragaholic’s Dream is one of the nicest routes in the Stronghold, but sees relatively few ascents compared to other climbs at its grade. The climb is entirely gear protected – not a single bolt, a rarity in the Stronghold for a six-pitch climb. It is a true gem not only because of its strictly traditional nature, but also because its rock quality is outstanding. With updated approach directions and a detailed new topo, this climb should be much easier to find and prepare for. For those climbing at the grade, it should not be missed!

Kerry's written description can be found here:

For a topo of this climb, you can PM me.

Note that two 60-meter ropes are required to descend.

This climb will take significantly longer to complete than routes of comparable difficulty with bolts. Make sure you are climbing solidly at the grade and allow enough time for you to complete the climb and return to your car.


Stoppers, doubles to #1 Camelot, triples of #2, #3, #4, single #5. A #6 is helpful if you like a lot of gear.


See the approach description for Squaretop. A Google Earth .kmz file is available at geir.com/googleearth/strong…