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Routes in Paleface Slab

Earth Tears Left S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Earth Tears Right S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lord of the Flies T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ojo Blanco S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Description

Paleface Slab is a clean face with a southerly aspect and relatively easy access in the Western Stronghold. Both Kerry's (1997) and Abbott's (2006) guidebooks list three routes. Two of these can be recognized by their SMC hangers.
At least two new additional tightly-bolted lines with big gray hangers have recently been installed. (Plus, there are a number of oddly placed old bolts in the waterstreak area where Feast of Friends is purported to go; I'm not sure what they belong to; the top bolt is a buttonhead with a Leeper hanger, so I'm not gonna try that one).

Getting There

From the end of Forest Road 687, start up the standard approach toward Whale Dome, etc (e.g., up the northern wash, not Trail #279). After about 8-10 minutes, the trail to Paleface diverges left out of the creekbed. This point is marked by a huge dead, rotten oak tree on the left bank. Follow this overgrown path up a ridge, staying out of the boulder fields and aiming left of a small pinnacle until you are well left of Paleface. Keep climbing until you are at about the same elevation as the slab. Turn hard right and traverse over to the base.

Descent

The original 3 routes in Kerry's guidebook all share the Paleface rap anchor (2 bolts with quicklinks). It requires two 50m+ ropes to safely rap from there. The newer bolted lines have their own rap anchors, and also require two ropes to descend.
--Alternately, once, I lacked a second rope, and we took the opportunity to see if there is a scramble all the way to the top of the ridge and then down a gully to the west. There is.

4 Total Climbs

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Costas
Fort Collins, CO
Costas   Fort Collins, CO
Nice bit of climbing gents. I've looked at that water-streak for a long time. I seem to remember hearing there are roughly 10-15 routes established on different parts of Paleface. Many are unpublished. You might encounter some random bolts, these may be previously established routes. Jan 4, 2012

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