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Routes in Naiche's Nest

Borland's Story Line S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cochise was a Smooth Dude S,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hunter's Left Layback S,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Kaeli's Clean Start S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Naiche's Bow S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rest of the Story, The S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Elevation: 50 ft
GPS: 31.876, -110.016 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Neil Barrett on Dec 6, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick
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Description

Naiche's Nest is a small, 50 foot high, half dome about 200 yards North-West of the Isle-of-you campground. The wall is about 85 degrees from vertical and runs almost due north-south. It gets great morning shade and direct sunlight a few minutes after noon. Great for summer mornings or winter afternoons. While the Isle-of-you is crowded, just 250 yards away, this area is seldom used. The rock is solid and typical of the stronghold. Great bouldering on the south side of the dome.

As I post this area in December 2009, there are 5 routes on three chained anchors. Two routes existed and shared the original anchor. I cannot find any references to the original routes in "Rock Climbing Arizona" or "Weekend Rock Arizona" or in any other climbing books or on-line resources. Three routes are new. If you know the history of this as a climbing area, please comment on this page. I'm going to post and name the two existing routes and someday hope original contributors can take the credit for this nice little area.

Naiche was the son of Cochise. The dome has a small nest like hollow on the top. In the Journals of Alden Sladen, Lt Sladen mentions seeing Naiche playing in the rocks in the general area between the stronghold and Middlemarch pass. General Howard, Sladen and Jeffords met Cochise to negotiate the treaty of 1871 about 400 yards west of this dome in Slavin's Gulch. It is quite likely that young Naiche played on these rock. I've been taking my kids and friends here to climb since the late 1990s and have named the new routes after them. Thanks to Daryl Allen and Russ Balderson for their help with tools, advice and manpower.

Getting There

From Middlemarch road go west about 4 miles on the West Stronghold road. As soon as you go through the fence line turn right(north). Go north past Sweetrock and down into the Isle-of-you campground.

Walk west about 100 yards on the obvious trail, then look north to the half dome. See photo. Walk about 100 yards through the grass field to the base of the dome along the west (left) side. To top rope, the south side has an easy 4th class walk up.

6 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Naiche's Nest

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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jbak  
Assuming this crag is where I'm thinking (not perfectly sure..) the existing routes were probably done by Mike Arqueso. He is on this board and could be PMed. Jan 3, 2015
Geir
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
very true, climber. the only person I know of that has ALL the information is DDC, but I understand this work is a private collection. Jan 25, 2010
climber  
Of all published Stronghold info Mtn Project, Rock nClimbing Arizona, Bob Kerry’s guide, and any other online info or offline source only 15% of the established route info is available. Even with another future partial guide to the Stronghold only 20% of the formations with routes will be included. Jan 24, 2010
climber  
Not too steep, more like 75 degrees.

Kaeli’s Clean Start probably climbed in 1992 or 1993.
Needs zero bolts for safe lead. Jan 24, 2010

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