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Routes in Westworld Dome

Chief Tossing Cookies T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Coati Corner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Defrocked Direct Start T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Deranged Skwinkle/ Buckeroo T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b A0 PG13
Dreamscape Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dustdevils T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fat Apache T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ringtail Arete S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Warpaint T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Bob Kerry, Charlie Rollins, EFR
Page Views: 5,195 total, 37/month
Shared By: 1Eric Rhicard on May 10, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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19 Opinions

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Description

A beautiful left facing dihedral on great rock. This would be a classic at most cragging areas. If you are doing a route on Westworld Dome don't miss this one. A little mental strength will be needed for the final moves. One of Bob Kerry's finest efforts.

Location

A hundred or so feet up hill from the start of Warpaint.

Protection

Mostly smaller stuff as I recall. A few bolts. Anchors.
Angel Mangual
Sierra Vista, AZ
Angel Mangual   Sierra Vista, AZ
I wish I had more day light to finish this route. This was a great route! If you have done the first pitch of Forest Lawn and want something similar but harder this is your route. Coming back for this one! Oct 12, 2013
Those are my bolts. Don't even think about getting on it. Haha. (Kidding) Give it a shot Andy. I think I tried to do it twice ground up and couldn't get past that section. Not saying it will not go just that I couldn't do it either time I tried. Nov 20, 2012
Jimbo  
The bolts are a part of the history. They should stay in honor of a gret ground up FA by Bob.
I think the bolts above this climb were an aborted attempt at a new line.
Get on it and do it Andy. Nov 20, 2012
Andy Bennett
Tucson, AZ
Andy Bennett   Tucson, AZ
I, too, was surprised by the bolts. I climbed nearly the entire route on gear, placing only one micro-cam that really wasn't necessary, and felt very safe the whole time...very safe even by Cochise standards. I did clip the last bolt, but the fixed nut is only 2' or 3' below...mental strength? The anchors are just above that last bolt... Surprising and disappointing. Perhaps the bolts should be removed. Sounds like a tremendous lead by Kerry, nevertheless! And a completely killer route.

What's up with the studs and random hangers on the next dike/crack pitch directly above? Nov 19, 2012
Bob Kerry did this climb up ground up and he didn't have micro cams, sliders or ball nuts. Definitely his finest climbing achievement considering he didn't start climb until his late thirties and did this in his forties. Often referring to himself as the 80 kilogram man, he was no twig boy, he did a great job when he put this one up. Jan 20, 2011
stevecurtis
Petaluma California
stevecurtis   Petaluma California
From the ground, the route looks trivial. However, there is a ton of good climbing. I was a bit surprised by the bolts near solid gear. A bit out of character for Cochise. (However, the sandbag grade is totally in character) Be prepared for a few tough committing moves out of the corner to the belay. Jan 19, 2011