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Areas in Isle of You

Attic, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Grad Rock 2 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Rad Rock 0 / 9 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Trad Rock 0 / 14 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
Elevation: 5,085 ft
GPS: 31.875, -110.015 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: James DeRoussel on Aug 20, 2002
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick
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Description

Cochise Stronghold is a spectacular landscape of rugged canyons and towering granite domes. While those seeking traditional, multi pitch climbing will have a special appreciation for climbing here in the Dragoon Mountains, Isle of You offers an opportunity for the sport-inclined clip-up artist to enjoy this beautiful landscape.

There are three adjacent rocks that comprise this area; Rad Rock, Trad Rock, and Glad Rock. They host several excellent climbs of varying grade from 5.6 and up. But beware, the easier climbs tend to be on lower angle slabs. For some climbers, broken ankles have been the price of a blown clip.

Bring a 60 m rope and quickdraws.

In regard to new lines, ask yourself if you are truly contributing something of quality to the area. While there is lots of rock in the Stronghold, most of it has been explored and you may be looking at a line that has already been done! Ask around and, please, think before you drill.

Additionally, this area is of great cultural significance to many people. Treat it with due respect.

Though it does not affect Isle of You, a large portion of the climbing in Cochise Stronghold is closed annually for raptor nesting. Current closures are from February 15 - June 30 and include the entire Rockfellow Group and What's My Line Dome. Check with the Forest Service for changes and current closures.

For more information and some interesting background on Cochise Stronghold, see Bob Kerry's guide 'Backcountry Climbing in Southern Arizona.'

Getting There

From Tucson, had east on I-10 to exit #303 (Tombstone/Bisbee). Turn right (south) on Arizona Highway 80 and drive for about 20 miles. Just before Tombstone, turn left onto Middlemarch Road. Follow this rough gravel road for almost ten miles to Forest Road 687. Make a left, towards the West Stronghold and follow this dirt road another two miles north. Make a final right turn on a dirt road that leads to a circular parking area. The crags are visible from the road.

29 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Isle of You

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
OK Corral
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Rabbits Feat
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stone Woman
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Isle of You
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Now It's My Turn
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Hairs on Fire
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jizzneyland
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Fire in the Hole
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rise and Shine, Cupcake
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
The Chosen One
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Liquor and Porn
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ass Over Teacup
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Evangeline the Rascal
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hotter than a Three Peckered Goat
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Gringo en Quema
Sport
OK Corral Trad Rock 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Rabbits Feat Trad Rock 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
Stone Woman Trad Rock 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Isle of You Trad Rock 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Now It's My Turn Trad Rock 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Hairs on Fire Rad Rock 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R Sport
Jizzneyland Trad Rock 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Fire in the Hole Rad Rock 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Rise and Shine, Cupcake Trad Rock 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
The Chosen One Trad Rock 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Liquor and Porn Rad Rock 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Ass Over Teacup Trad Rock 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Evangeline the Rascal Grad Rock 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Hotter than a Three Peckere… Rad Rock 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Gringo en Quema Rad Rock 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Isle of You »

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
@Jonah, "Rock Climbing Arizona" from Falcon Guide has reasonably good coverage for the area. May 30, 2011
Loose bolts/anchor Question:

I was last at Trad Rock in spring of 2005 - and am planning to return soon. At the time, I seem to recall at least a few bolts and some of the anchor bolts (not just the hangers - but the bolts themselves) being suspiciously loose on climbs along the left side of the crag (can't remember exactly which routes). Does anyone who climbs here more regularly know if any these have been replaced / repaired since then?

Many thanks Feb 11, 2011
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
Jonah, this will get you started. You can buy a used copy (out of print) on Amazon or bookfinder.com. Make sure you get the 2nd edition (1997 I think). Not sure if there are any newer guides. Jun 3, 2010
Hello, I was curious about a guide for this area.

Laura- Ive been wanting to do this area as well. May 29, 2010
Laura Howey
Gilbert, AZ
Laura Howey   Gilbert, AZ
I would love to go. New climber. Low clearance vehicle. Need more information on camping conditions.

Laura Apr 7, 2010
Daryl Allan
Sierra Vista, AZ
Daryl Allan   Sierra Vista, AZ
JP,
The Stronghold has an East and West side. The [end of] Ironwood road area is a pay area over on the East Stronghold with facilities but there is plenty of non-facility, free camping over there as well. You will be on West Stronghold if you're going to the Isle of Ewe though.

There are no facilities on the West Stronghold but parking, climbing, and access are free. There are several campgrounds and campsites in the Isle of Ewe area. You shouldn't have any trouble finding a spot out there.

Plenty of good climbing out there to keep you entertained. Check out Rad, Trad and Glad rocks for stuff in the Isle of Ewe area, and Sheepshead, Muttonhead, Squaretop, and Westworld Dome for multipitch areas on the west side. There are plenty more than i listed but those will give you somewhere to start. Dec 7, 2009
JohnP
Broomfield, CO
JohnP   Broomfield, CO
I am headed out west on a road trip and have a couple questions about the Isle of Ewe...

1.) Can I camp out at this area? I keep finding things about parking, but no camping information other than the one area off ironwood road, which is kind of far. Any suggestions on the whole camping topic would be helpful also!

2.) What is the current access situation? Do I have to pay to get to these areas? It seems like there is conflicting information on this...

Any other tips or even recommendations for ANY other good one pitch routes (I'll have to come back later for the multi-pitch)that are currently listed would be awesome!

Thanks for the help.
JP Dec 7, 2009
JLPierce
Flagstaff, AZ
JLPierce   Flagstaff, AZ
That sounds like Trad Rock. Ironic that Trad Rock has sport routes, hmmm... Anyway, I will post a picture of the rock face. I know this was MONTHS ago but maybe it will help others. Sep 21, 2009
Christian
Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
Hey Cobra,

Sorry for the late response

Haven't been to Isle of You area in ages. Darryl Allan's a great guy, send him an e-mail and he'll figure it out for you. I'm sure he knows about any areas close to Sweet Rock too. Mar 18, 2009
thinking maybe what we were on was on the way to sweet rock - do you walk down a narrow sandy trail past a face shorter than sweet rock on the way? past where we were was a nice horseshoe shaped rock alcove that looked more similar to the pics i'm seeing for that area. also the climbs we did looked to be shorter than the ones i'm seeing on here - there were definitely not any climbs over single pitch - probably all less than 90 feet or so. sorry i can't give a better description/provide pics... Feb 26, 2009
Christian
Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
mountainproject.com/v/arizo… ???? Feb 24, 2009
Tried to get out to Trad Rock last weekend - we parked at the top of the circular parking area, and found a decent trail with a little bit of fine gravel/sand leading up along the side of a rock face. I don't think this was Trad Rock, but it was bolted with about 6-8 routes up some pretty good face climbing. There were 2 big trees at the base of the rock and on the left-most part of the clean rock face was a nice rolling section you could probably scramble up to get at some of the anchors up top. Any info on this area? What is an easier way to find my way to the REAL Trad Rock? Thanks very much

Brian Feb 24, 2009
Almonzo Wilder
Flagstaff, Arizona
Almonzo Wilder   Flagstaff, Arizona
One more note on directions. After the left turn off of Middlemarch Rd onto FR 687, the right to the Isle of You parking area lies IMMEDIATELY AFTER A CATTLE GUARD about two miles in. Dec 13, 2004
GPS: The left turn onto Middlemarch s N31.73482 W11007771, The next left is N31.84694 W110.00329, The next right is N31.87078 W110.02101, The parking area is at N31.87342 W110.01665, and finally the crag itself is at N31.87455 W110.01490 at 5083 ft elevation. Jul 5, 2004

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