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Routes in Trad Rock

Ass Over Teacup S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Baby Jr. S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baby Jr. Gets Spanked S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Big Nosed Kate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chosen One, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cochise Toecheese S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Hell in a Handbasket S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Isle of You S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jizzneyland S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Now It's My Turn S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
OK Corral S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rabbits Feat S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Rise and Shine, Cupcake S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stone Woman S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 120 ft
FA: Mike Strassman
Page Views: 1,223 total, 15/month
Shared By: Daryl Allan on Dec 27, 2010
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Great route! Another route that should see more traffic than it does. Crimp through thought provoking beginning over well-bolted, thin face up to crux at bulge then finish up a nice arĂȘte to anchor shared with Hell in a Handbasket.

Location

Right most route of two bolted lines between OK Corral and left facing dihedral.

Protection

Bolts to anchor shared with Hell in a Handbasket. Very well bolted. The route can be rapped with a 70m but you may have to swing over to a boulder to the left; knot the ends!! A top rope from the [shared] anchor would have a lot of rope drag. Instead, it's possible to use two 36" or 42" slings on two bolts (one borrowed from Hell in a Handbasket[left]) at the last bulge to make a top rope anchor. This can then be cleaned by continuing (leading) up to the anchor then rapping to either OK Corral anchor (with 60m) or to base (70m).

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Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
  5.11a
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
  5.11a
Maybe something broke? It's been awhile since I was on this route, but it felt in the 11 range back when I climbed it. I remember it being a great route. Feb 23, 2016
RyanJames
  5.12 PG13
RyanJames  
  5.12 PG13
I'm also not sure where the 5.11 grade came from. This thing is nails hard! I would say that it's a solid mid-grade 5.12 - but a fantastic one! Definitely worth doing if you're looking for something very technical. Feb 23, 2016
Agjohns
  5.12c/d PG13
Agjohns  
  5.12c/d PG13
This route is amazing, hard sustained face climbing with a few extra hard defined crux sequences. Though this maybe a "Cochise 5.11" any other climbing area would likely rate it somewhere in the moderate to hard 5.12 range. Jan 7, 2014
Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
Not sure how this could be considered 11a unless I completely missed the sequence at the crux? I can typically onsight up to 11d at most areas and I couldn't even figure this one out no matter what I tried. Feb 8, 2013