Type: Sport, 120 ft
FA: Mike Strassman
Page Views: 1,495 total · 15/month
Shared By: Daryl Allan on Dec 27, 2010
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route

14 Opinions

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Great route! Another route that should see more traffic than it does. Crimp through thought provoking beginning over well-bolted, thin face up to crux at bulge then finish up a nice arĂȘte to anchor shared with Hell in a Handbasket.


Right most route of two bolted lines between OK Corral and left facing dihedral.


Bolts to anchor shared with Hell in a Handbasket. Very well bolted. The route can be rapped with a 70m but you may have to swing over to a boulder to the left; knot the ends!! A top rope from the [shared] anchor would have a lot of rope drag. Instead, it's possible to use two 36" or 42" slings on two bolts (one borrowed from Hell in a Handbasket[left]) at the last bulge to make a top rope anchor. This can then be cleaned by continuing (leading) up to the anchor then rapping to either OK Corral anchor (with 60m) or to base (70m).


Steven Lucarelli
Moab, UT
Steven Lucarelli   Moab, UT
Not sure how this could be considered 11a unless I completely missed the sequence at the crux? I can typically onsight up to 11d at most areas and I couldn't even figure this one out no matter what I tried. Feb 8, 2013
  5.12c/d PG13
  5.12c/d PG13
This route is amazing, hard sustained face climbing with a few extra hard defined crux sequences. Though this maybe a "Cochise 5.11" any other climbing area would likely rate it somewhere in the moderate to hard 5.12 range. Jan 7, 2014
  5.12 PG13
  5.12 PG13
I'm also not sure where the 5.11 grade came from. This thing is nails hard! I would say that it's a solid mid-grade 5.12 - but a fantastic one! Definitely worth doing if you're looking for something very technical. Feb 23, 2016
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
Maybe something broke? It's been awhile since I was on this route, but it felt in the 11 range back when I climbed it. I remember it being a great route. Feb 23, 2016
Dwight Jugornot
Arvada, Co.
Dwight Jugornot   Arvada, Co.
This route is actually about 135 ft. Guidebook calls it 12. 17+2 draws. Only slightly run-out and plenty of hard climbing with two cruxes. Sloper hands, good feet, body tension, relentless, classic! Jan 28, 2018