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Routes in Trad Rock

Ass Over Teacup S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Baby Jr. S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baby Jr. Gets Spanked S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Big Nosed Kate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chosen One, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cochise Toecheese S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Hell in a Handbasket S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Isle of You S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jizzneyland S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Now It's My Turn S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
OK Corral S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rabbits Feat S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Rise and Shine, Cupcake S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stone Woman S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Mike Strassman
Page Views: 1,777 total, 10/month
Shared By: Vincent Greene on Aug 16, 2003
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


37 Opinions

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Description

Just left of OK Corral on left side of rock. First two bolts on fairly easy face. Stay left on thinner face to overhang, traverse right under overhang with tricky lieback sequence. Climb overhang on right side. Crux is above the overhang on thin face. Fun climb!

Protection

8-9 bolts. Chain anchor

Photos

orin salah  
 
I thought this was an excellent climb. Very tricky slab moves into steep moves through the overhang. Great line. Mar 27, 2009
Daryl Allan
Sierra Vista, AZ
  5.10a
Daryl Allan   Sierra Vista, AZ
  5.10a
I pulled the roof from left and right on two separate runs today and found both to be a fun challenge. Left side is all about planting the correct hand up first to pull it nice and smooth. Looks like one anchor bolt was replaced fairly recently and the other older one is getting due for a replacement. May 31, 2008
Wes Turner
az
  5.10b
Wes Turner   az
  5.10b
sinc posting my first comment I climbed it again. first...there are two ways of going at this one. if you traverse left somet about 10' or so below the roof. and then back right below the roof....it is def. easier than going straight up. so if you did that I can see how it would have felt easier. Apr 4, 2005
Hmm, crux for me was making the clips; the climbing itself felt easier. Mar 30, 2005
Wes Turner
az
  5.10b
Wes Turner   az
  5.10b
i felt crux (.10b)was somewhere before the roof and that the face above was .9+/.10a and fairly sustained May 16, 2004