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Routes in Trad Rock

Ass Over Teacup S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Baby Jr. S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baby Jr. Gets Spanked S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Big Nosed Kate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chosen One, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cochise Toecheese S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Hell in a Handbasket S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Isle of You S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jizzneyland S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Now It's My Turn S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
OK Corral S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rabbits Feat S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Rise and Shine, Cupcake S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stone Woman S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 120 ft
FA: Mike Strassman
Page Views: 628 total, 7/month
Shared By: Daryl Allan on Dec 27, 2010
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Very fun route with a little of everything. I'm surprised this route doesn't get as much traffic as some of the other routes on this wall. Maybe because of the over-rating in the guide books(?).

Scramble up to first bolt then continue up through balancy crux to second bolt. Follow sustained mild 10 climbing to no hands rest then up through bulge 10c finish. Route goes over three fairly distinct bulge sections, the hardest of which being the last. After the last bulge, a scramble takes you up to the anchor which is shared with Ass Over Teacup.

Good route for those working through leading 10s. The cruxes are well protected and there are lots of nice rests.

Location

First route to the right of OK Corral. It is the left-most of the two in the alcove between OK Corral and the left facing dihedral.

Protection

Very well bolted from about 30 feet on up. Some generous spacing between the first few bolts so folks not solid on 5.10 be aware!

The route can be rapped with a 70m but you may have to swing over to a boulder to the left; knot the ends!! A top rope from the [shared] anchor would have a lot of rope drag. Instead, it's possible to use two 36" or 42" slings on two bolts (one borrowed from Ass Over Teacup) at the last bulge to make a top rope anchor. This can then be cleaned by continuing (leading) up to the anchor then rapping to either OK Corral anchor (with 60m) or to base (70m).

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Daryl Allan
Sierra Vista, AZ
 
Daryl Allan   Sierra Vista, AZ
 
You make a good point.. description updated. Jan 6, 2015
Shirtless Mike
Denver, CO
 
Shirtless Mike   Denver, CO  
 
I'd say this one doesn't see much traffic due to the generous spacing between the first three bolts. Feels like you would come pretty close to the ground if you fell getting to the second or third bolt. Above the third bolt the route is well protected in all the harder sections. Jan 6, 2015