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Routes in Trad Rock

Ass Over Teacup S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Baby Jr. S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baby Jr. Gets Spanked S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Big Nosed Kate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chosen One, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cochise Toecheese S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Hell in a Handbasket S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Isle of You S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jizzneyland S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Now It's My Turn S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
OK Corral S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rabbits Feat S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Rise and Shine, Cupcake S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stone Woman S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Mike Strassman
Page Views: 2,691 total, 15/month
Shared By: Almonzo Wilder on Jan 1, 2003
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


83 Opinions

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Description

An easy climb up the black-ish water groove on the right side of Trad Rock. Note: the topo in B. Kerry's book shows this as the right-most climb on the wall. This is no longer the case. A good low-anglw warm-up for anything else on the wall.

Protection

6 bolts with chains.

Photos

mikehilbert
Tucson, AZ
  5.7 PG13
mikehilbert   Tucson, AZ
  5.7 PG13
With all due respect to Daryll Allen, I feel compelled to disagree with his comment on this being an ideal 1st lead. This climb isn't incredibly difficult, but it seemed a bit sandbagged to me at 5.6 (felt more like a 5.7) and there are a number of cruxes going up headwalls/bulges with significant ledge fall potential below each crux. Finally, the runout to the first bolt (although on easy ground if the leader chooses to not do the 5.8 direct start up slab) would spook me if I were a new leader. Apr 25, 2016
Steven Reneau  
5.7
From the ground, the climb is ~95 ft long, with 7 bolts. Long scramble to the first bolt. Apr 19, 2012
Daryl Allan
Sierra Vista, AZ
  5.5 PG13
Daryl Allan   Sierra Vista, AZ
  5.5 PG13
Only one star b/c it's not something i would repeat but the one redeeming feature is that it's a great 1st lead for someone needing some confidence. Nothing really hard about any of it but plenty of bolts that are easily reachable. Great for beginner lead. May 31, 2008
kBobby Hanson
Spokane, WA
 
kBobby Hanson   Spokane, WA
 
The Kerry guide also gives this two stars. I have climbed this route twice. I didn't really enjoy it the first time; but when I came back about two years later, I decided to give it another shot. I still don't like it. Nothing on the climb seemed very intersting, in fact the only thing that I remembered about the route was that the bolts all feel like they are in the wrong spot.

I thought O.K. Corral was much much better. I actually remembered many of the individual moves over the course of two years. May 20, 2005