Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Trad Rock

Ass Over Teacup S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Baby Jr. S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baby Jr. Gets Spanked S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Big Nosed Kate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chosen One, The S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Cochise Toecheese S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hell in a Handbasket S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Isle of You S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jizzneyland S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Now It's My Turn S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
OK Corral S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rabbits Feat S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Rise and Shine, Cupcake S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stone Woman S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 165 ft
FA: Mike Strassman
Page Views: 1,442 total · 11/month
Shared By: Hendrixson on Oct 20, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


15 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description [Suggest Change]

Earns the 5.11a rating just after the first bolt with delicate crimps and micro feet. Eases shortly thereafter with three or so 5.10 cruxes interspersed among the 165ft of climbing. Note there are significant (20ft) runouts between a few bolts on easier terrain. While arguably a one move wonder, the climbing above is so enjoyable and endless that it can be overlooked.

Location [Suggest Change]

Sixth climb from the right; between 'Stone Woman' and 'Isle of You'. Rightmost climb on the gravel terrace.

Protection [Suggest Change]

17 bolts to 2-bolt anchor, which is shared with 'Isle of You'. Since the route is 165ft one must:
  • Walk off
  • Double rope rappel
  • Climb with an 80m rope

Photos

Matthew N. Hirt
college park
Matthew N. Hirt   college park
This climb was good broke a large undercling off just before the anchors, but after falling and getting another look at it you don't need it. climbed 1/10/11 Mar 8, 2011
John Hayes
Bend, OR
  5.11a
John Hayes   Bend, OR
  5.11a
The thin moves from the ground past the first bolt are the crux. After that there are two or three cruxes that seemed like maybe 5.10 to me. The climbing is fun even if there are a lot of tendon tearing moves near the bottom. Feb 19, 2012
Ken Duncan
Ft Collins, CO
 
Ken Duncan   Ft Collins, CO
 
You can get down with a 60 by rapping to the Jizzneyland anchors. Mar 20, 2017
Dwight Jugornot
Arvada, Co.
 
Dwight Jugornot   Arvada, Co.
 
An 80m rope got us to the ground. 130 ft. about. Not a one move wonder, plenty of fun above the crux. 17+2 draws. Run-outs are about 25 and 30 ft. on 5.8 stuff? Be careful. Jan 28, 2018
Only burly climbers carry a 80m to the Cochise Stronghold! Feb 4, 2018

More About The Chosen One

Printer-Friendly