Type: Sport, 165 ft
FA: Mike Strassman
Page Views: 1,477 total · 11/month
Shared By: Hendrixson on Oct 20, 2007
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


17 Opinions

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Description

Earns the 5.11a rating just after the first bolt with delicate crimps and micro feet. Eases shortly thereafter with three or so 5.10 cruxes interspersed among the 165ft of climbing. Note there are significant (20ft) runouts between a few bolts on easier terrain. While arguably a one move wonder, the climbing above is so enjoyable and endless that it can be overlooked.

Location

Sixth climb from the right; between 'Stone Woman' and 'Isle of You'. Rightmost climb on the gravel terrace.

Protection

17 bolts to 2-bolt anchor, which is shared with 'Isle of You'. Since the route is 165ft one must:
  • Walk off
  • Double rope rappel
  • Climb with an 80m rope

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Top-rope, self-belay. Yarded at crux otherwise clean.
Top-rope, self-belay. Yarded at crux otherwise…
 0

5 Comments

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Matthew N. Hirt
college park
Matthew N. Hirt   college park
This climb was good broke a large undercling off just before the anchors, but after falling and getting another look at it you don't need it. climbed 1/10/11 Mar 8, 2011
John Hayes
Bend, OR
  5.11a
John Hayes   Bend, OR
  5.11a
The thin moves from the ground past the first bolt are the crux. After that there are two or three cruxes that seemed like maybe 5.10 to me. The climbing is fun even if there are a lot of tendon tearing moves near the bottom. Feb 19, 2012
Ken Duncan
Ft Collins, CO
 
Ken Duncan   Ft Collins, CO
 
You can get down with a 60 by rapping to the Jizzneyland anchors. Mar 20, 2017
Dwight Jugornot
Arvada, Co.
 
Dwight Jugornot   Arvada, Co.
 
An 80m rope got us to the ground. 130 ft. about. Not a one move wonder, plenty of fun above the crux. 17+2 draws. Run-outs are about 25 and 30 ft. on 5.8 stuff? Be careful. Jan 28, 2018
www.cochiseclimbing.com
www.cochiseclimbing.com  
Only burly climbers carry a 80m to the Cochise Stronghold! Feb 4, 2018