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Routes in Trad Rock

Ass Over Teacup S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Baby Jr. S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baby Jr. Gets Spanked S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Big Nosed Kate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chosen One, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cochise Toecheese S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Hell in a Handbasket S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Isle of You S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jizzneyland S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Now It's My Turn S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
OK Corral S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rabbits Feat S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Rise and Shine, Cupcake S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stone Woman S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Elevation: 5,120 ft
GPS: 31.875, -110.015 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 15,883 total, 85/month
Shared By: James DeRoussel on Sep 3, 2002
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

Description

Trad Rock is the lower and foremost of the two most prominent rocks visible from the parking area. It hosts a good number of quality routes in a variety of grades from 5.6-5.11. In spite of its name, most of the routes on this crag are clip-ups. All in all, it's a great sport crag in an unbeatable setting.

Rock quality is generally good. Watch out for nesting wasps and bees up on the rock.

Getting There

From Tucson, had east on I-10 to exit #303 (Tombstone/Bisbee). Turn right (south) on Arizona Highway 80 and drive for about 20 miles. Just before Tombstone, turn left onto Middlemarch Road. Follow this rough gravel road for almost ten miles to Forest Road 687. Make a left, towards the West Stronghold and follow this dirt road another two miles north. Make a final right turn on a dirt road that leads to a circular parking area. The crags are visible from the road.

A good trail leads across the drainage below the parking area, and uphill to the crags.

14 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Trad Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
I echo the above comment, this crag gets a lot of traffic. I just climbed all the routes on trad rock and found a number of loose bolts on routes all over the crag, even the newest routes. If you are inclined to do a community service, take a wrench with you and tighten things up. Dec 31, 2013
Loose bolts/anchor Question:

I was last at Trad Rock in spring of 2005 - and am planning to return soon. At the time, I seem to recall at least a few bolts and some of the anchor bolts (not just the hangers - but the bolts themselves) being suspiciously loose on climbs along the left side of the crag (can't remember exactly which routes). Does anyone who climbs here more regularly know if any these have been replaced / repaired since then?

Many thanks Feb 11, 2011
JLPierce
Flagstaff, AZ
JLPierce   Flagstaff, AZ
Yes, watch the wasps. I got stung on the bottom of my foot- crawled between my sandal and foot, ouch! Good thing you can't use your feet to climb here, just the edges. Haha! "Slabby, smeary fun" Sep 21, 2009
Spiro  
I climbed in three areas of AZ and this was by far my favorite. The others were great as well but there is something magical about the Stronghold! GO! Feb 26, 2008

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