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Routes in Trad Rock

Ass Over Teacup S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Baby Jr. S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baby Jr. Gets Spanked S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Big Nosed Kate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chosen One, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cochise Toecheese S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Hell in a Handbasket S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Isle of You S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jizzneyland S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Now It's My Turn S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
OK Corral S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rabbits Feat S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Rise and Shine, Cupcake S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stone Woman S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Gorden Washburn
Page Views: 2,150 total, 12/month
Shared By: Vincent Greene on Aug 1, 2003
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


38 Opinions

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Description

Farthest climb to the right. Belay from ledge to left of climb with a 60M rope. Well protected climb with good moves that gets harder as you climb higher. Crux is just below the top bolt. Named for the mangled rabbits foot found on the climb by Ben Burnam while he bolted the climb.

Protection

10 bolts - chain anchors

Photos

mcoopwood
5.8+
mcoopwood  
5.8+
Nice moderate sport slab route. The bolts are well placed to protect the most difficult moves but the combination of bulges and low angled ledges can be treacherous. The line zigzags requiring a couple shoulder length slings to avoid rope drag. I wonder if any of those holds were chipped. Dec 14, 2016
JMo
Tucson, AZ
 
JMo   Tucson, AZ
 
Dale is talking about a different route. this route is every bit as thought-provoking and challenging as 5.8 should be. don't read this wrong-route, all-caps, sandbag nonsense and jump on this line thinking its a breeze. Mar 8, 2015
Greg D
Here
 
Greg D   Here
 
Poorly placed bolts in my opinion. Ledge fall is possible more than once. Feb 12, 2014
This is not a safe place for feet, first the rabbit's foot, then mine. When I climbed this a few years ago I mistakely thought I was on baby jr. gets spanked, an easy 5.6, because that was the climb furthest to the right according to my guide book. The climb got significantly harder about 2/3 of the way up. There were no good holds above and downclimbing seemed too difficult. At 5'9" I was almost able to clip into the next bolt on my tippy toes, but alas I fell about 25 feet and broke my foot. This section should earn this climb a 5.9 rating. Jan 9, 2012
BAd
  5.9
BAd  
  5.9
ER, Dale, are you talking about the same route? Farthest to the right with the pretty sketchy, super rounded slopers at the top? There is NO way I would recommend this to a 5.6 leader. Try the route again and compare it to OK Corral and some of the other routes on Trad. Dec 31, 2010
dale polen
arivaca, az
dale polen   arivaca, az
This is more like 5.6 or a light 5.7.NO WAY IS THIS 5.8+. moves are straight forward and rather simple. Nov 14, 2010
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
Requires a 60m rope. Be sure to knot the ends of your rope while repelling. Slab climbing. Sep 1, 2007
Micah  
This picture and description makes me feel a lot better about myself. I thought it was the baby jr gets spanked. I came here from georgia and it made me think ratings were much stiffer here. ThanksAndrew Robbins Aug 22, 2003