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Routes in Trad Rock

Ass Over Teacup S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Baby Jr. S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baby Jr. Gets Spanked S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Big Nosed Kate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chosen One, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cochise Toecheese S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Hell in a Handbasket S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Isle of You S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jizzneyland S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Now It's My Turn S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
OK Corral S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rabbits Feat S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Rise and Shine, Cupcake S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Stone Woman S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Mike Strassman, Jackie Carroll
Page Views: 1,915 total, 11/month
Shared By: Nick Kuhn on Feb 29, 2004
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


44 Opinions

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Description

This route is the first bolt line to the right of Baby Jr. Gets Spanked (BJGS follows the brown stain up the face). Big Nosed Kate follows bolts up straightforward climbing to a ledge, then ascends tough face for a couple of moves (crux) to easier climbing above. Staying directly under the bolts may push the rating into 5.9 range. Also, beware of hitting the ledge with a fall from the crux; possibly consider tying in your belayer if they weigh considerably less than you do.

A direct start from the trees protected by a single bolt is hard climbing. To avoid this, simply traverse in from the left.

Protection

6-8 bolts, chain anchors on top.

Photos

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mcoopwood
5.8+
mcoopwood  
5.8+
This climb has the same difficulty as Rabbits Feat. I agree that it goes 5.9 if you stay under the bolts. Dec 14, 2016
Brian Boyd
Kowloon, Hong Kong
Brian Boyd   Kowloon, Hong Kong  
The direct start is fun. Definite ledge-smacking potential if you blow the upper crux section. Feb 16, 2009
Vincent Greene  
  5.8
The direct start from the trees is around a 5.10a move straight up the groove. You might want to consider skipping the first bolt - by the time you clip it, you have already made the hard move. Jul 5, 2004