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Routes in Trad Rock

Ass Over Teacup S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Baby Jr. S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Baby Jr. Gets Spanked S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Big Nosed Kate S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Chosen One, The S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Cochise Toecheese S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hell in a Handbasket S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Isle of You S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jizzneyland S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Now It's My Turn S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
OK Corral S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rabbits Feat S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Rise and Shine, Cupcake S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stone Woman S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Mike Strassman
Page Views: 2,166 total · 13/month
Shared By: M. Morley on Mar 20, 2005
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


68 Opinions

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Description

Jizzneyland starts just left of 'Isle of You' (the route, not the area) at the obvious arete/break in the rock. Mostly 5.9 climbing with one 5.10 move towards the top, which is well-protected. In fact, the entire route is very well-protected with a bolt nearly every body length. Great climbing on superb stone.

Single-rope rap from 2-bolt anchor gets you back to terra firma.

Protection

A dozen or so quickdraws.

Photos

Nice route name Jul 30, 2005
Chris Dillon
  5.10b
Chris Dillon  
  5.10b
Great climb, and very well protected. I dare you to fall more than 5 feet. Oct 19, 2005
The lower section is definitely contrived, the upper section is OK. Apr 13, 2006
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.10
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.10
This route is as easy or easier than Stone Woman on the same wall. The route provides a nice mid-way shelf for a rest before heading up and through a short crux.

Nice route and worth climbing while in the area. If 10c is pushing your limits.....try this one. Jan 9, 2008
Meghan
Sierra Vista, AZ
  5.10c
Meghan   Sierra Vista, AZ
  5.10c
The book Rock Climbing Arizona describes this climb as follows: "Jizzneyland (5.10c) Begin right of two large boulders and a right-slanting, left-facing corner. Thin crux edging to the 1st bolt. Continue up right to a small ledge. Climb the headwall above past two 5.10 cruxes to anchors. 8 bolts to 2-bolt anchor. Lower off." This sounds EXACTLY like what I did today, but the description above doesn't fit... anybody else do this route lately and know for sure that it was Jizzneyland? The hardest part (for me) was the first twenty feet, which was really thin with small chips to crimp, and the first bolt was VERY far above the ground... in case that rings a bell. Jul 4, 2008
Daryl Allan
Sierra Vista, AZ
  5.10b PG13
Daryl Allan   Sierra Vista, AZ
  5.10b PG13
One side of the anchor is in desperate need of repair/replacement. 3/8" of threads showing with 1/4" of play in the hanger on the bolt and the whole thing wobbles. Repair links (hammer-shut links) are used on both sides vice quick links or factory anchor assemblies. Cold shuts would even be better than repair links. Anyone know if the FA would have problems with upgrades/repairs? Sep 25, 2008
Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.10c
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.10c
If the FA is Mike Strassman, he's passed away. Sep 25, 2008
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
Hey Daryl, if an anchor or bolt appears to be bad try to tighten the bolt down first. If that doesn't solve the problem then fix it. You don't have to ask permission to fix a bad bolt or anchor. Just make sure you do a good job and everyone will thank you.

You only need to talk to the FA party if you want to dramatically change the location of something or post it on MP.com. (Kidding about the posting part) Sep 25, 2008
Daryl Allan
Sierra Vista, AZ
  5.10b PG13
Daryl Allan   Sierra Vista, AZ
  5.10b PG13
Christian and Eric, thanks guys - i just got back in town. The situation is a little beyond tightening things down, i'm afraid, so i'll put this on the todo list. I'm thinking that route was hand drilled judging by some of the bolt angles on the way up. Not trying to gripe here; just an observation. Thanks again, i'll post a follow up when completed. Sep 29, 2008
David Lammers
Grand Junction, CO
David Lammers   Grand Junction, CO
The first bolt is high on some thin holds. I recommend either stick-clipping the first bolt or climbing up the left ramp to place the first draw to protect those first moves off the ground. May 10, 2009
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10c
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10c
best route we did all day by far (better than isle of you, imho)- the .10c is easily avoided by starting the climb above the boulders to the left and traversing in, making this a pleasant .10a route.

condition note- the first bolts hanger has been tightened down horizontally- not ideal, it should probably be fixed at some point in the future. Mar 15, 2010
JMo
Tucson, AZ
 
JMo   Tucson, AZ
 
fun climb. full number grade easier than isle of you for me. Mar 8, 2015

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