Ghost Dome (AKA Infinity Dome) Rock Climbing
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|Shared By:||Andrew Megas-Russell on Feb 2, 2012|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
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DescriptionGhost Dome hosts a couple of quality multi-pitch routes with clean rock and lots of sun. The routes on Ghost Dome can be great by themselves or as a link up after climbing The Whale Dome. The area is located behind the Whale Dome, across a drainage to the North East.
We first climbed the dome, ground up, via a very nice three pitch natural line which we dubbed Scoopin Booty. There was no evidence of anyone climbing this line, yet it just seemed too good to have been unclimbed. There is evidence of route development far right on the cliff, marked by a random SMC button head a few feet off the deck with a bail biner hanging from it. Upon climbing this dome our first time we found a single SMC button head bolt on the summit. We replaced this single button head with a couple of nice Metolius rap bolt hangers.
Upon doing some investigation it does appear that both of these routes were first ascents. There is confirmation that a few other routes have been established both to the left of Time'll Tell and to the right of Scoopin' Booty. If you like steep crack climbing, get on Scoopin' Booty.
Getting ThereFrom the end of Forest Road 687, start up the standard approach toward Whale Dome, (e.g., up the northern wash, not Trail #279). Follow the wash for about 40 minutes until you are almost under The Whale Dome. Dont cut left up the steep, vague drainage toward the base of Moby Dick. Rather, continue up the main drainage for another five or so minutes passing the East Face of The Whale Dome. There will be another vague drainage cutting left which wraps around the back side of The Whale Dome. A few downed old growth cypress trees guard this drainage. Once past the downed trees continue up a steep, loose and dirt filled drainage for another few minutes. Ghost Dome is the first significant wall on the right just before the drainage ends. Cut right, out of the drainage, and follow cairns traversing along the base of the cliff. Navigate through trees, past a short lie-back move in an alcove, and under some tree branches to gain the base of the main cliff. The approach trail to the base of the wall still needs some work. Timell Tell has a bunch scree at the base and the first three bolts, followed by a wide crack, can be seen from the ground. Scoopin Booty is located just beyond Timell Tell to climbers right.
- Alternatively, you can approach Ghost Dome relatively easily after climbing The Whale Dome. Once on the notch/saddle below The Whale Dome rappel, scramble down 4th class terrain to the north (this is the opposite direction of the standard descent back to base of Moby Dick) and across a drainage to the base of the Ghost Dome. It should take no more than 15 minutes total to get there.
Classic Climbing Routes at Ghost Dome (AKA Infinity Dome)
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season