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Routes in Westworld Dome

Chief Tossing Cookies T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Coati Corner T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Defrocked Direct Start T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Deranged Skwinkle/ Buckeroo T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b A0 PG13
Dreamscape Buttress T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dustdevils T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fat Apache T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Ringtail Arete S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Warpaint T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
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Elevation: 6,785 ft
GPS: 31.942, -109.988 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 17,403 total · 90/month
Shared By: Tony B on Nov 12, 2002
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland
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Westworld Dome is a huge granite dome in the West Stronghold. From the end of Forest Road 687, it is the dominant feature on the right hand side of the left drainage. This 600' rock holds several good lines, including the classic Warpaint.

The rock on Westworld Dome is mostly good, but you better have the right shoes on. The face is slabbing in most places, barely low enough to call a slab in many others, and even overhanging in some. Westworld Dome is a fairly long approach, so plan on doing a long route while you are there, to make it worthwhile.

To descend from any of the top-out routes, rap either Dreamscape Buttress or Warpaint on 2 ropes.60M ropes are ok, 50M uncertain.

Getting There

From the popular parking and camping area at the end of Forest Road 687 there are a mess of trails. Some of them lead to the East Stronghold. Instead of these, find a trail which takes you North from the end of the road, in the leftmost of the two drainages. Follow this for 30 minutes (perhaps 2 miles) to a big old Cypress tree, from where cairns lead up and right to the dome. The trail here is faint and brushy in spots, but if you keep your eye on the dome, you'll make it there eventually, even if you depart from the trail.This dome is further up the drainage and across from the more popular Whale Dome.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Westworld Dome

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dreamscape Buttress
Trad 5 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trad, Sport 4 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Trad 5 pitches
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Ringtail Arete
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Coati Corner
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Dreamscape Buttress
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 5 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, Sport 4 pitches
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad 5 pitches
Ringtail Arete
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Coati Corner
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
More Classic Climbs in Westworld Dome »

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1Eric Rhicard
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
Hate to be disagreeable but edging shoes are the last thing you need on Westworld Dome. This is true for most of the slabs of the Stronghold. The routes are all slab routes. with the occasional steeper section. The best shoes for slabs have 5.10 rubber and allow your toes to extend rather than be crunched up. Normally I wear size 39 1/2 but on most everything I have done on WWD I use 41 1/2 shoes with socks. This allows your feet to flex at the ball and that puts more rubber on the rock. Remember for slabs, butt out, short steps, believe in the rubber! May 18, 2006
Jerry Cagle
Tucson, AZ
Jerry Cagle   Tucson, AZ
Westworld dome is not a long approach, at least by Stronghold standards: 30 minutes, perhaps. It's one of the shortest approaches to a large dome in the entire area. It is consistently steep once you leave the drainage and head up to the dome.

Eric is absolutely right re: "edging shoes". Leave them at home... There are definitely some small edges here and there, but by and large this is a slab-fest. Regarding rubber: 5.10 is good, but I got some Acopa's recently with "RS" rubber, and I've been quite impressed with their performance. I've always felt like it took a few pitches for the 5.10 to break in, but the RS was good right out of the box. May 29, 2006
Littleton, CO
Hendrixson   Littleton, CO
There is a new route near the rappel for Dreamscape Buttress. The climb is approximately 5.9, contains 4 bolts and takes gear to 2". Near the top 3 or 4 holds broke but the climbing was mild enough to allow recovery. The rappel may require two ropes. Feb 20, 2011
San Francisco
BFK   San Francisco
Anyone have any info for the sport route at the base of the Warpaint final rap? Mar 2, 2015
Littleton, CO
Hendrixson   Littleton, CO
Attempted to sort the routes. Please let me know if corrections need to be made. Mar 2, 2015

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