Type: Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 4200 ft, 15 pitches, Grade VI
FA: Brian Teal / Pete Lowney
Page Views: 3,020 total · 24/month
Shared By: Airbiscuit on May 26, 2008
Admins: Jared LaVacque, L. Von Dommelheimer

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Register with the NP Mountaineering Headquarters in Talkeetna, AK before climbing in the park! Details


Straight up the Gut. What a Line! Head left at the Y. The origonal Route bypasses the 500' ice at the bottom by skirting in from the left. Reported to be a pleasent moderate outing with several steps up to WI5 / M4+.

For obvious reasons this route has extreme objective hazards.

Cold weather only!


Standard Scottish Rack


Colin Simon
Boulder, CO
Colin Simon   Boulder, CO
"Standard Scottish rack"

For those of us who haven't ever been to Scotland, this could use development. Oct 14, 2015
L. Von Dommelheimer   Anchorage  
a kilt, and a set of nuts... oh, and a warthog or three. Oct 15, 2015
Grand Junction, Co
  WI5 M5 Steep Snow
Airbiscuit   Grand Junction, Co
  WI5 M5 Steep Snow
Damn, stole my thunder, I always heard it as a picket and a set of nuts :) Oct 15, 2015
jg fox  
I think Andy Kirkpatrick's modern Scottish climbing rack could work here considering the rating (conjecture on my part, I haven't climbed anything remotely this hard):

1-2 sets of nuts
1 set of cams up to Camalot #3
1 set of hexes/big nuts
2 knife blades (varying sizes)
3 lost arrows (varying sizes)
1 ice hook (BD ice piton or pecker)
3 ice screws (19 or 22 cm for v-thread, the rest is up to the climber)
2 pickets in lieu of warthogs

Not clean but *it is* a recommended Scottish climbing rack. Nov 2, 2015