Elevation: 9,652 ft
GPS: 39.26, -105.101 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 590,696 total · 2,486/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Dec 31, 2000 with improvements by Adam Block
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Raptor Closures Details

Description

Devil's Head is a relatively new granite climbing area with perhaps the highest concentration of three star routes anywhere in the Front Range. While lying in the South Platte, Devil's Head granite presents a super fine-grain textured granite that only rarely reveals the typical South Platte crystalline matrix. The rock is remarkably featured with roofs, cracks, edges, and flakes that, unlike most of the South Platte, offer up tremendous amounts of excellent, exciting, face climbing.

Devil's Head climbing occurs largely on the South and East-facing slopes of Devil's Head mountain, and the climber could not ask for a more serene place to climb. The crags face South, West, or East and overlook Pike's Peak with all the rest of the Rampart Range hills spread out in unbroken splendor as far as the eye can see.

The area possesses over 400 routes with the balance of new route activity devoted to bolt-protected sport climbing, although nearly 20 of the routes are superb granite crack climbs on bomber trad gear. While the emphasis in climbing is largely on the upper 5.11 and 5.12 range, difficulty pretty much spans the gamut, and it is a good bet that some under-rated 5.13 lies on the hill as well.

Development of new routes started nearly 8 years ago spearheaded by the relentless energy of Tod Anderson, author of the area's guidebook, "The Devil Made Me Do It". The roster of first ascentionists that Tod dragged up the hill includes (in no particular order) Tom Hanson, Scott Sills, Rich Magill, Richard Wright, Alan Nelson, Mike Lane, Janice Harnak, Ernie Moskovitz (Ziggy), Frank (Tripp) Collins, Martin Birch, Dave Fields, Eric Leonard, and Pat Burwick. Other notable developers include Pete Takeda, Ken Trout, and probably some more great climbers as well. Of more than a dozen developed crags, the most notable routes lie on the following crags: The Headstone, The Crimpfest Wall, The Red Wall, The Starcastle, The Crag Ranch, and The Shaft.

Getting There

From Denver, the best way to reach Devils's Head is to take CO Highway 85 south to Sedalia. Then head west on CO Highway 67 to the North entrance of the park, about 10 miles. The ranger station booth marks the North end of FR 300, the Ramparts Range Road. Take this South for approximately 9 miles to the turn off for Devil's Head campground and the Fire Tower. Be aware that the Rampart Range Road will be closed from the first Monday in December to sometime in April due to snow pack. From Colorado Springs, FR 300 can be reached from the Garden of The Gods, but is a fairly torturous 20 miles North. Once at the parking lot, head up the tourist trail toward the Fire Tower about 1.5 miles. At a saddle well below the Fire Tower the trail forks right (to the tower) and left to the Zinn Overlook. Head for the Zinn Overlook along a well defined climbers trail. At the overlook, trails will fork directly toward the Headstone formation (left) and right, through the woods, toward the Red Wall, Starcastle, and The Shaft.

Per Tzilla Rapdrilla: there is a new parking lot at Mile Marker 10 - The USFS has completed the new lot at the Mile Marker 10 site used for Lower West Side Access, allowing room for a lot more cars. The new lot is just past the campsite #36. There isn't a "P" sign there yet, but I imagine they just haven't gotten around to it yet. It should be noted that this is not a legal campsite and was built for climber parking, so there is no need to park at non-designated sites along the road.

COVID-19 Update from the FS:

2020-18 Devil's Head Recreation Area Closure Order

Pueblo, Colo., May 05, 2020 – A temporary closure order has been implemented for the heavy-use Devil’s Head recreation site on the South Platte Ranger District. The closure area includes the Devil’s Head trailhead, campground, picnic area, fire lookout tower, several Forest Service roads, and the Zinn trail (NFST615). The order will remain in effect until December 1, 2020 or until rescinded, whichever comes first.


“While we know Devil’s Head recreation area is a popular site for recreation, the primary function of this area is wildfire detection from Devil’s Head fire lookout tower,” said Forest Supervisor Diana Trujillo. “These actions have been taken to limit gatherings of large numbers of people and to promote social distancing, which is not possible at this site due to the confined nature of the trail, stairs and lookout tower. We are working in conjunction with local, regional, state and federal partners and cooperators to provide access to recreation opportunities where possible and to keep visitors, our employees, and communities safe.”

This closure prohibits going into or being upon the restricted area, being on the restricted roads and being on the restricted trails.


Forest officials are implementing the order in addition to existing regional developed recreation site closures and fire restrictions, which remain in place until May 31, 2020. Entering upon closed areas or igniting, building, maintaining, attending or using a fire or smoking on national forests and grasslands is a violation of Federal law and may result in consequent fines and possible jail time.


Visitors to our national forests are urged to take the tips and precautions recommended by the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC). To review all of the orders and stay up to date on other closures, please visit the Pike and San Isabel National Forests Cimarron and Comanche National Grasslands website. Forest Service offices are currently conducting business virtually and questions regarding this closure can be directed to the South Platte Ranger District at (303) 275-5610 or by email to South Platte Ranger District.


https://www.fs.usda.gov/detail/psicc/notices/?cid=FSEPRD733807 

Guidebooks

"Rampart Range Rocks" by Tod Anderson is available at Bent Gate.

As of May 2012, a new guidebook to the South Platte that includes Devil's Head was published by Fixed Pin Publishing. "South Platte Climbing" by Jason Haas, Ben Schneider, and Craig Weinhold should be available in most climbing shops sometime in the latter half of May or directly from Fixed Pin.

As of July 2018, Tod Anderson published an updated Devil's Head Guidebook with 1500 routes! You can currently pick it up at local shops throughout the Front Range.

Ranger Station contact info

303-275-5610.

Website for the Pike Forest Ranger District.

Land Stewardship

Eds. With the many visitors and recreationists to the forest, we are having an impact on the land. Obviously we cherish our public lands immensely. Whenever possible, please try to limit the impact we have here and do our best to be great stewards of these beautiful lands.

529 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Devil's Head

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 88
Beginner's Luck
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 67
Chickenhead
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 78
Giant Dihedral
Trad 2 pitches
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 81
Welcome to the Jungle
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 89
Learning Curve
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 77
Lost in the Jungle
Sport 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 122
Tailwinds
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 142
Mr. Hanky
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 85
Jungle Mountaineering
Sport 3 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 94
Turd Burglar
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 112
Topaz
Sport 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 63
Dave's Dilemma
Trad, Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 56
Revelation Route
Sport 7 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 115
Wishbone Dihedral
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 48
Devil Dog
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Beginner's Luck Training Grounds
 88
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Chickenhead Headstone
 67
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Giant Dihedral Radio Head
 78
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Welcome to the Jungle Jungle
 81
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Learning Curve Training Grounds
 89
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
Lost in the Jungle Jungle
 77
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport 3 pitches
Tailwinds Wipeyur Buttress
 122
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Mr. Hanky Wipeyur Buttress
 142
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Jungle Mountaineering Jungle
 85
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 3 pitches
Turd Burglar Wipeyur Buttress
 94
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Topaz Headstone
 112
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
Dave's Dilemma Crimpfest Wall
 63
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Sport
Revelation Route Sin City
 56
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 7 pitches
Wishbone Dihedral Chicken Head Ranch
 115
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Devil Dog Devil's Gate Se… > Devil's Gate
 48
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Devil's Head »

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