Mountain Project Logo

Areas in Devil's Head

Analog Alcove 1 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Arena, The 0 / 17 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17
Back To The Future Slab 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Black Wave Wall 1 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Camp 11 Area Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Chicken Head Ranch 4 / 19 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 23
Choss Temple, The 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Chuck Norris Wall 2 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Crack of Noon Area 0 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Crag Ranch, The 7 / 18 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 26
Crimpfest Wall, The 2 / 17 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 18
Devil's Gate Sector 5 / 23 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 28
Devil's Head Parking Lot Rock 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Devil's Head Rock 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Digital Tower 2 / 7 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Greek Towers, The 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Hallway, The 5 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Hangdog Cafe, The 1 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Head Wall, The 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Headstone, The 7 / 14 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 19
Hole in the Wall 4 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Jungle, The 0 / 10 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Kissing Giants, The 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
LSD Wall 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Mirror Wall 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Monument, The 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Morning Glory Wall 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Polyp, The 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Private Idaho 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Purgatory Rock 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Radio Head 17 / 32 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 39
Recovery Wall 1 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Red Wall, The 0 / 15 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 15
Sawblade Ridge 0 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Scooter Trash Wall 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Shaft, The 0 / 12 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 12
Sin City 3 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Solarium, the 0 / 4 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Starcastle, The 3 / 8 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Tourist Wall 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Trailside Castle 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Training Grounds, The 3 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Underworld 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Unicorn Valley 6 / 8 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
Upyer Buttress 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Waffle House 3 / 11 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
Wipeyur Buttress 0 / 22 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 22
Elevation: 9,000 ft
GPS: 39.26, -105.101 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 285,056 total, 1,381/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

Devil's Head is a relatively new granite climbing area with perhaps the highest concentration of three star routes anywhere in the Front Range. While lying in the South Platte, Devil's Head granite presents a super fine-grain textured granite that only rarely reveals the typical South Platte crystalline matrix. The rock is remarkably featured with roofs, cracks, edges, and flakes that, unlike most of the South Platte, offer up tremendous amounts of excellent, exciting, face climbing.

Devil's Head climbing occurs largely on the South and East-facing slopes of Devil's Head mountain, and the climber could not ask for a more serene place to climb. The crags face South, West, or East and overlook Pike's Peak with all the rest of the Rampart Range hills spread out in unbroken splendor as far as the eye can see.

The area possesses over 400 routes with the balance of new route activity devoted to bolt-protected sport climbing, although nearly 20 of the routes are superb granite crack climbs on bomber trad gear. While the emphasis in climbing is largely on the upper 5.11 and 5.12 range, difficulty pretty much spans the gamut, and it is a good bet that some under-rated 5.13 lies on the hill as well.

Development of new routes started nearly 8 years ago spearheaded by the relentless energy of Tod Anderson, author of the area's guidebook, "The Devil Made Me Do It". The roster of first ascentionists that Tod dragged up the hill includes (in no particular order) Tom Hanson, Scott Sills, Rich Magill, Richard Wright, Alan Nelson, Mike Lane, Janice Harnak, Ernie Moskovitz (Ziggy), Frank (Tripp) Collins, Martin Birch, Dave Fields, Eric Leonard, and Pat Burwick. Other notable developers include Pete Takeda, Ken Trout, and probably some more great climbers as well. Of more than a dozen developed crags, the most notable routes lie on the following crags: The Headstone, The Crimpfest Wall, The Red Wall, The Starcastle, The Crag Ranch, and The Shaft.
Raptor Closures Details

Getting There

From Denver, the best way to reach Devils's Head is to take CO Highway 85 south to Sedalia. Then head west on CO Highway 67 to the North entrance of the park, about 10 miles. The ranger station booth marks the North end of FR 300, the Ramparts Range Road. Take this South for approximately 9 miles to the turn off for Devil's Head campground and the Fire Tower. Be aware that the Rampart Range Road will be closed from the first Monday in December to sometime in April due to snow pack. From Colorado Springs, FR 300 can be reached from the Garden of The Gods, but is a fairly torturous 20 miles North. Once at the parking lot, head up the tourist trail toward the Fire Tower about 1.5 miles. At a saddle well below the Fire Tower the trail forks right (to the tower) and left to the Zinn Overlook. Head for the Zinn Overlook along a well defined climbers trail. At the overlook, trails will fork directly toward the Headstone formation (left) and right, through the woods, toward the Red Wall, Starcastle, and The Shaft.

Per Tzilla Rapdrilla: there is a new parking lot at Mile Marker 10 - The USFS has completed the new lot at the Mile Marker 10 site used for Lower West Side Access, allowing room for a lot more cars. The new lot is just past the campsite #36. There isn't a "P" sign there yet, but I imagine they just haven't gotten around to it yet. It should be noted that this is not a legal campsite and was built for climber parking, so there is no need to park at non-designated sites along the road.

Guidebooks

"Rampart Range Rocks" by Tod Anderson is available at Bent Gate.

As of May 2012, a new guidebook to the South Platte that includes Devil's Head was published by Fixed Pin Publishing. "South Platte Climbing" by Jason Haas, Ben Schneider, and Craig Weinhold should be available in most climbing shops sometime in the latter half of May or directly from Fixed Pin.

Ranger Station contact info

303-275-5610.

Website for the Pike Forest Ranger District.

Land Stewardship

Eds. With the many visitors and recreationists to the forest, we are having an impact on the land. Obviously we cherish our public lands immensely. Whenever possible, please try to limit the impact we have here and do our best to be great stewards of these beautiful lands.

414 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Devil's Head Change
Type:  to 
Quality: Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Devil's Head

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Beginner's Luck
Sport
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Passing the Baton
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chickenhead
Trad 3 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Giant Dihedral
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Too Much Nooky, Not Enough Sleep
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Practice Run
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Welcome to the Jungle
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Junk in the Trunk
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tailwinds
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Mr. Hanky
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jungle Mountaineering
Sport 3 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Turd Burglar
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Topaz
Sport 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dave's Dilemma
Trad, Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wishbone Dihedral
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Beginner's Luck Training Grounds 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Passing the Baton Training Grounds 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c Sport
Chickenhead Headstone 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Giant Dihedral Radio Head 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Too Much Nooky, Not Enough… Training Grounds 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Practice Run Training Grounds 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Welcome to the Jungle Jungle 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Junk in the Trunk Wipeyur Buttress 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Tailwinds Wipeyur Buttress 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Mr. Hanky Wipeyur Buttress 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Jungle Mountaineering Jungle 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport 3 pitches
Turd Burglar Wipeyur Buttress 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Topaz Headstone 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport 2 pitches
Dave's Dilemma Crimpfest Wall 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Sport
Wishbone Dihedral Chicken Head Ranch 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Devil's Head »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

New parking lot at Mile Marker 10 - The USFS has completed the new lot at the Mile Marker 10 site used for Lower West Side Access, allowing room for a lot more cars. The new lot is just past the campsite #36. There isn't a "P" sign there yet, but I imagine they just haven't gotten around to it yet. It should be noted that this is not a legal campsite and was built for climber parking, so there is no need to park at non-designated sites along the road. Kudos to the USFS for getting this lot completed. Sep 7, 2017
Lost a pair of Maui Jim sunglasses at Chickenhead Ranch. If anyone finds them, please shoot me a message, would be greatly appreciated, and I can pay for shipping plus a little extra! Jul 7, 2017
While hiking the Devil's Head fire tower trail yesterday, a ranger stopped to talk to us. His message was a warning that they are "probably going to close" the area/trail due to excessive litter, specifically dog waste.

I've already reached out to the Access Fund to understand what if anything we climbers can do about this, but in the meantime, if you go here, pack out all of your trash including the #2s your four-legged friend leaves behind, and it's OK to shame your fellow humans into doing the same. It seems this issue may threaten a number of areas especially those near Denver.

  • *Update - the Access Fund got back to me and after speaking with the Forest Service this appears to be a "misunderstanding", and while dog waste is a concern, they are not planning to close the trail.
Apr 17, 2017
J. Albers
Colorado
J. Albers   Colorado

CONDITION REPORT:



Folks should be aware that there is a pretty huge wasp (or some such stinging creature) nest in the ground right next to the staging area for the Unwall. If you are facing the wall while standing in the very nice open flat area at the base of the routes (The Unwall #4 and #6, The Unimpressed etc.), then if you simply turn around you will be staring at a fairly large pine tree that is maybe 15-20 feet from the wall (really the first tree IIRC). Anyway, right on the backside of this tree built into the roots and decomposing tree matter is a ground nest that must be around 4-6 feet in diameter, because the entrance alone is 1-2 feet wide. Anyway, I climbed at that wall and walked past it multiple times last year and didn't even notice the wasps or the nest until my puppy walked a step too close (she didn't even step on the entrance), and the vibration sent a cloud of many, many hundreds (maybe thousands) of wasps streaming out. Needless to say we all ran and luckily the swarm gave up after about 100 yards. My puppy was stung probably 6-10 times. Anyway, probably not a reason to avoid the wall, but certainly something that folks with a dog or small children should be aware of.

Admins, I figure this should be a 'condition report' without a time limit, because I can't imagine this nest is going anywhere anytime soon. Jun 13, 2016
DH is still open, but there's about 6 inches of snow, so a good set of snow tires or 4WD is needed as the road is not plowed. The rock was sunny and dry today. The road is gated right after Thanksgiving weekend. Nov 14, 2015
Chris G.
Lakewood
Chris G.   Lakewood
Anyone know if the gate is still open to Devil's Head with the recent snow? Nov 14, 2015
Greg Hand
Golden, CO
Greg Hand   Golden, CO

It has been open almost 2 weeks. Aug 29, 2015
Trevor Thrift
Denver, Co
Trevor Thrift   Denver, Co
Does anyone know if the park is still closed? Aug 29, 2015
Greg Hand
Golden, CO
Greg Hand   Golden, CO
Be aware that the trail to the fire lookout has been destroyed. Last night a microburst hit the area. It will require several weeks to clean up. Jul 22, 2015
Samantha,

The Technicoulior will be added to the Rakkup app sometime this summer. It sits on a steep, north-facing hillside and is best on a hot summer day. It's pretty hard to find, so we have to record the GPS tracks to get there. May 18, 2015
Can anyone tell me where the Technicouloir Crag is featured in the Rock and Ice article about Devil's Head? May 16, 2015
Not likely, as they seem to keep Rampart Range Road closed as long as they can in recent years. You can call 303-275-5610 and ask about the status, which is a good idea before heading up only to find the road gated. Mar 18, 2015
Hi, what chances do you think Devil's Head will be open to climb on April 2? Thanks! Mar 16, 2015
Thanks for the info, T-Zilla! We are stoked to check out this incredible area. Jun 25, 2014
No problems getting dogs to Crimpfest, & if gets too hot, there you can always swing over to Red Wall or Mirror Wall. Jun 25, 2014
Any thoughts on dog access to the Crimpfest Wall? Jun 25, 2014
Monty
Golden, CO
Monty   Golden, CO  
"Tod recommends camping south of the DH campground along Rampart Range Rd."

That is spot on! May 29, 2014
Josh Jones
Denver, CO
Josh Jones   Denver, CO
Thanks, everyone! This is my first trip to Devil's Head, so I appreciate the info. I've looked at the areas listed in Tod's guidebook and compared that to the "Closed Area" shown on Exhibit B of the USDA closure. My understanding is that I will not be encroaching on any of the closed areas. I've also spoke with a ranger at the South Platte Ranger District. She was clueless and very short with me even after I explained my concerns. Needless to say, I have done my due diligence.

Jason: I was looking for your guidebook yesterday. It was sold out at both REI (Denver) and Wilderness Exchange. I was going to compare yours to Tod's and see if there was any significant difference, mainly the content of the DH area. I know there has been a lot of contention on this subject, but do you think your book has the same content (routes, areas) as far as the DH area goes?

Lastly, can anyone recommend any good camping spots? Tod's guidebook states the the camping along Rampart Range Road, north of the DH campground, can sometimes be noisy with ATVs and motorcyclists. Tod recommends camping south of the DH campground along Rampart Range Rd. May 29, 2014
Devil's Head closure is listed on the USDA website here: fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al…. I wonder how much they've monitored the peregrine activity after this report was issued (almost 20 years ago)?!?! May 28, 2014
To add to Tod's response, I will say that there are no signs posted down there (old or new). That doesn't make it OK to be there, just saying it would be easy to mistakenly climb in the affected area without realizing it. I left that closure info out of my book, because the rangers I spoke to numerous times over the years didn't know anything about it, and I couldn't find anything on their website. Hubbel printed a closure note in his Platte guidebook for the area, but he didn't remember where he got the information from, so I didn't know the validity of that info. However, when my book went to press, a link with a PDF about the closure appeared on this page from a user named 'South Platte Ranger District', but they never responded to my PM and haven't logged in basically since they posted that, and no one at the ranger district knew who created the account. Anyway, thanks for asking for clarification first to keep access relations good. If you're looking for a guidebook, all the areas listed in Tod Anderson's Rampart Range Rocks book are fully open. May 27, 2014
Josh, the only area that's in any published guide is Devil's Head Rock down along Jackson Creek. None of the other crags are affected. May 27, 2014
Josh Jones
Denver, CO
Josh Jones   Denver, CO
Does anyone know which areas are closed for peregrine falcon nesting? The South Platte River District was not helpful.... May 27, 2014
There are several areas that get good sun this time of year, the obvious being the Solarium of course, along with Wipeyur, Jungle, Crimpfest, Arena, and Crag Ranch. Since most of the walls face either east or west, you can flip flop to stay in the sun by switching crags about mid-day. Hope this helps. Oct 18, 2013
Joe Forrester
Palo Alto
Joe Forrester   Palo Alto
Anyone have good recommendations for good south facing walls/routes now that it has gotten chilly? Oct 18, 2013
J. Albers
Colorado
J. Albers   Colorado
Hey folks,

I just thought that I would post up and encourage everyone to keep their eyes open as you fly down Rampart Range Road lest you are able to mitigate a similar situation that my partners and I had to deal with last Saturday. We were coming home from Radio Head and were about to drive around the prominent hairpin turn before hitting the fire lookout intersection, and we came across a pretty raging but unattended campfire. It appears as though someone left two big (3+ foot) logs over hot coals and the wind whipped the fire up. We poured what water we had left to get the fire out and then spent some time digging and stirring to get it "out-out". Anyway, it may be a good idea to carry a bit of extra water and keep your eyes open for this kind of thing.

Also, to the climbers who threw their cigarette butts all over at the base of Crandall Hammer Arete (in the last week or so), you are douchebags. The rest of us aren't your mother, pick up your own sh*t. Aug 20, 2013
LuisC
Boulder
LuisC   Boulder
Thanks a lot, Derek! Jun 25, 2013
Derek Lawrence   Bailey
Luis,
Yes, the road is open. There are no closures due to the fires; however, there is a fire ban which affects all the free camping sites. It was not smoky last weekend, but I'm not sure about current conditions (will find out tomorrow...). Free camping can be found all along Rampart Range Rd with the site just past Mile Marker 10 being the only one you can walk to the crags (Wypeyur Buttress and the rest of the Lower West Side). Pay camping available at the Fire Tower trailhead. Jun 21, 2013
LuisC
Boulder
LuisC   Boulder
Does anyone know if the road is open now? Are there any other closures due to fires or anything?

Also, what's the best place to camp if we want to climb in the Devil's Head area?

Thanks, never been there, so any info would be appreciated. Jun 21, 2013
Alex A  
2013 Road Opening,
Update 5/9/13 (source, South Platte Ranger district):
Rampart Range Road is scheduled to open today. 2] Devil's Head Campground opens Memorial Weekend (possibly the weekend before, but that is up the concessionaire ph # 720-445-1485)

South Platte Ranger district, 303-275-5610, the PHONE has not been working for a long time. If you get a FAST BUSY SIGNAL, IT IS STILL NOT WORKING, CALL THE PIKE FOREST SERVICE HEADQUATERS, FOR UPDATES, 719-553-1400.

5/8/13 - it is still not working, you will not get a busy signal know, just some guy's private cell phone. Apr 25, 2013
Tom R
Denver, CO
Tom R   Denver, CO
Until they open the gate, the only way in involves a very long walk. Apr 19, 2013
Eva Raphael
Boulder, CO
Eva Raphael   Boulder, CO
Thanks, Tom. I did try that number several times and got only busy signals. Do you know if there's any other way to access the fire lookout tower, or is the whole area closed? Apr 19, 2013
Tom R
Denver, CO
Tom R   Denver, CO
Eva, the road is not open yet. The Forest Service is waiting for "the area to dry out to a point where resource damage is minimized". The phone number for the ranger district is 303-275-5610. Call them often and bug them to open the gate. Apr 18, 2013
Eva Raphael
Boulder, CO
Eva Raphael   Boulder, CO
Does anyone know if Devil's Head is accessible right now? The ranger station is not answering the phone nor returning emails, and I can't seem to find current conditions anywhere.... Apr 18, 2013
Dave J  
Ike Rushmore, it's been well established. You are a troll, or in your words, you're only "five months old". Start posting as your real self. I'm not really friends with Jason or the other two authors, although I did climb with Jason once or twice about 5 years ago - a real standup guy. Regardless, I just think you guys need to get called out on for your childish, disrespectful, and immoral actions.
EDIT: many of the posts by the DH crew and trolls like Ike Rushmore have been deleted Jun 21, 2012
slim    
I own and enjoy both of them. To be honest with you, I think the overall layout of Devil's Head is complicated enough that being able to use both books is helpful. This weekend we only saw 2 other pairs of climbers - both of whom were trying to get there bearings.

We usually look at both books to get an overall game plan and then carry Tod's book (as it is lighter and I am quite lazy).

Commenting on the China thing - get used to it. America is headed down that road (right or wrong), and there's probably no going back. Jun 11, 2012
Dave J  
I wondered about the China thing too, then I found out from Wolverine that books are something like 2-3 times more expensive to print in the U.S. So, which would you rather have, a book printed here or a book that's $80+? Also, the Boulder Canyon book says it's printed in South Korea, but Fixed Pin's book to Table Mountain is printed in the U.S. I agree, no alphabetical index and no page numbers in the grade index is annoying, but not as annoying as one third of the sport routes having wrong bolt counts, not to mention other errors like where routes go, etc. Kind of reminds me of Bob D'Antonio's Boulder Canyon book in that respect. Yeah, Tod's book is $14 less, but it also has 1,200 less routes in it. I guess it's cool if you only want a select guidebook to the area. Here's a review to the new South Platte book by Matt Samet as well climbingterms.com/tagged/So…. Jun 11, 2012
Alex A  
I have both books, my BIG complaint, with the Rampart Range guide, is THERE IS NO PAGE INDEX FOR ROUTES, THERE IS A GRADE INDEX WITH NO PAGE NUMBERS AND ONLY AREAS WITH PAGE NUMBERS, WTF!!!!!!!, SO SIMPLE TOO ADD A PAGE #s.
Other than that, it's a good guide, is lighter then Platte guide by more then half its weight, plus it's $14 less.

The Platte guide has a grade index with page #s, a route index with page #s, and areas, at $38.95, pricey.

Luv how 90% of guidebook authors are sending jobs to CHINA or Korea.
FYI guidebook authors, University of Wisconsin Press, can print a 366 page guide that retails for $20 or less, $16.95 on Amazon, made in USA, Climber's Guide to Devil's Lake. Jun 8, 2012
A review of Tod Anderson's fine DH book can be found here: climbingterms.com/post/2454… Jun 6, 2012
Dave J  
Delta Bravo, or should I say Mike Lane, I am more than willing to contribute to a trail day. When has an official one ever been scheduled? Is this something you’re willing to organize? Maybe you can call everyone a douche or vile little turds when they sign up. Really good for getting referrals for your plumbing work too I bet. I would also be willing to pitch in some money for replacing old bolts. But no matter how much work someone does for an area, it still doesn’t change the fact that a crappy, error-filled book is still a crappy, error-filled book. I have climbed almost 50 routes here and can post up the errors I found in Tod Anderson’s Rampart Range Rocks guidebook on every route on this website if you’d like. It would take a while, though, as there’d be quite a few comments to make. May 29, 2012
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
We climb up rocks, then we come down. Sometimes there are bolts in the rocks already, sometimes there aren't.

Some people like climbing up rocks in a particular place so much that they write a book about it.

Surely we all have better things to do than argue about which book about climbing up rocks with or without bolts in it already is better. May 26, 2012
Mike Lane
Centennial, CO
Mike Lane   Centennial, CO
They don't do it to get paid you douche. The point is that with buying Tod's book all the proceeds go right back into development and maintainence. With your pathetic spray all over MP lately, you've implied you have been all over DH, at least enough to know to state this:
"which has at least one error on almost every page."
To be so well informed, you clearly must have utilized the various trails and clipped lots of bolts. All of which were products of personal expense; both financially and with all the sweat and getting ripped up by the thorn bushes that clogged every approach to every wall. Yet you have the audacity to fling this shit around without contributing one iota of effort to the place. You are a vile little turd.

This was a sleeping dog until Jason posted up his link; which originally included the book cover. He took it down quickly, but it was noticed. This whole stinking mess arose from FP's aggressive nature in trying to corner the market on beta. No one from the Head Crew thought twice about this until it was forced upon them.

The reasonable stance I thought everyone adopted was go ahead and buy Jason's book, there's no reason not to. But also, if you want to spend some time exploring DH, show your support to those who made it happen by buying Tod's book also. May 26, 2012
Dave J  
And on the being paid for hardware argument - see the last thread the DH crew started to slander the new book, but to reiterate the general question on that thread as well, since when did we start paying people to bolt routes? You do it because you want to - it's not a job like it is in Europe. Also, it's been very well established one individual didn't even bolt half the routes here. One last thing, which is truly meant to be a point and not simply to start anything, but that cost would be a lot lower if so many cracks weren't bolted. Just saying. May 25, 2012
Dave J  
Tom, the picture of the guidebook you posted is the one from a few years ago. There is a new one out. Here is a picture of the cover.



It seems weird that there is this arguement about who has done more for the community, Haas or Anderson. Both have done a lot, from developing new routes (both guys doing sport and trad), replacing bolts, building new trails, creating guidebooks, etc., and both have dumped money from their guidebook sales back into the area and both have spent their own hard-earned money to improve the area. Is it really a debate of who has done more for the community or even a specific area? Seems silly to me as each man has probably done more for the community than 90% of the other members of the community. It also seems childish to me, considering these posters that are defending this book were also the ones called out for organizing an attack on Haas on the internet a few months back. None of you did ever answer a basic question I posed and it is this:

Would you rather use a guidebook with correct information or incorrect information? It's that simple. I for one do not want to use a book that INCORRECTLY states:

bolt counts
route lengths
or even where the route actually goes!

Both authors have a different styles in presenting information, but those three things above are facts and should not be different between the two guides (or this website for that matter). I've used the new Haas guidebook, and I have not found any errors in it (that doesn't mean there aren't any). The same cannot be said for the Anderson guide, which has at least one error on almost every page where I've climbed at. I posted this concern before and the "DH Crew" attacked me for it. I took it down to "lighten the mood", but since this seems to have started up again, I for one think there are some saftey concerns with using the Anderson guide. Yes, I could take and lower to get more draws and things, (and I do climb with an extra draw or two), but that seems like a silly counter-arguement. I guess the point is if I'm going to pay for information, I'd like to be paying for CORRECT information. May 25, 2012
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
Let's look at this:

(1) 400 routes, 400 anchors @ $25/anchor, net = $10,000.

(2) 400 routes, 12 bolts each @ 2.00/bolt, net = $9,600.

(3) 400 routes, 12 hangers each @ 2.50/hanger, net = $12,000.

(4) Drills and batteries over 20 years (roughly), net = $3,000.

(5) Working ropes over 20 years @ $200/rope, net = $8,000.

Hardware subcost final = $ 31,800 (roughly).

Knock off about 10% for trad routes not taking hangers and bolts.

Net final hardware cost = $29,640.00.

No charge for shifting magnetic North by 36 degrees.

Net labor cost = multiply hardware cost by 3 or 4.

Maybe we should take up a collection? May 25, 2012
Bill Ballace
Pullman,WA
Bill Ballace   Pullman,WA
If you enjoy the climbing at Devil's Head, you should pick up a copy of Rampart Range Rocks! It is a great guide and the proceeds go DIRECTLY into continued development and maintenance of routes at The Head. About 20-50 new routes are established every year by the head crew. Support their efforts and expenses with a purchase of Rampart Range Rocks! May 23, 2012
Tom R
Denver, CO
Tom R   Denver, CO

The Devil's Head guidebook, "Rampart Range Rocks", is available at most Front Range mountain shops. May 23, 2012
The new comprehensive, color guidebook to the South Platte (including Devil's Head) is available in all the local shops and online at Fixed Pin's website (free shipping). Happy climbing! May 22, 2012
Tom R
Denver, CO
Tom R   Denver, CO
Heppherd-
The closure encompases a group of lesser known crags on the far east side of the mountain. None of the areas described in Tod's guidebook, Rampart Range Rocks, are affected. May 4, 2012
Never been here, and I can't make any sense of the USFS map. Does anyone know what walls are closed for falcon nesting??? May 3, 2012
SEASON OPENER - As of 4/13/12 the road is open to Devil's Head. Be advised that the very north end of Rampart Range Road is still closed for a tree cutting operation, so you have to go up Jackson Creek Road instead. As usual the USFS kept the road closed as long as possible, so there isn't any of the winter snowpack left & the trails are all in great shape, enjoy. Apr 16, 2012
Considering the recent Climbing Magazine article and the incomplete information contained in it, one could be misled to believe that there is no current guidebook available for Devil’s Head; when in fact, there is a recently published, comprehensive, full color guidebook for the entire area – Rampart Range Rocks. Rampart Range Rocks is available in almost all outdoor retailers in Colorado, Utah, Wyoming, and New Mexico. It should be noted that ALL OF THE PROCEEDS from this book go back to the climbing community primarily in the form of new routes and maintenance of existing ones.

Furthermore, there is an existing core community of climbers dedicated to the area, some of whom who have been climbing there for decades. Everyone is pitching in to help with stewardship of the area and new additions to the group are always welcome. Aug 22, 2011
Simon H
Oakland, CA
Simon H   Oakland, CA
The climbing here is absolutely stellar - amazing, fine-grained, grippy granite that is highly featured and often coated in beautiful map lichen. The setting is scenic, there are always shady climbs, and there are few other climbers.

If you're used to the stout, old school, grading and ground up bolting in other areas of the S'Platte (Turkey rock, Wigwam Creek) you may be (pleasantly?) surprised by the softer grading and lack of runouts. Aug 2, 2011
New pit toilets just installed at the main parking lot, thanks USFS!!

Now, about more parking & keeping the trailhead open longer.... Jul 15, 2011
I don't think an inaccurate bolt count equates to a safety concern... if you run out of draws, just lower and get some more... it is a sport route, remember?

Nor would "route color-coding" equate to a safety concern.

Tod did a great job on this book, in my humble opinion. But then again, I have never been the type to trust or even read the bolt count in a guidebook. May 9, 2011
Despite the link on some of the DH routes to a raptor closure, none of the routes listed on MP are affected by that closure. In fact, none are even within a mile of the closure boundary. Jackson Creek Road and the activity there are actually closer to the raptor closure area than the routes listed on MP. For reference, there is a crag listed in the old Hubbel book, labeled as Devil's Head that is within the area affected by the raptor closure. Apr 15, 2011
The road is now open to Devil's Head, about a month earlier than normal, but you have to go in via Jackson Creek Road as the north gate to Rampart Range Road is still closed for tree removal. The amount of snow is trivial, even on north facing slopes. See pictures for a couple of season opener shots. Apr 12, 2011
Nathan Van Horn
Colorado Springs, CO
Nathan Van Horn   Colorado Springs, CO
David - be careful using the Climbing Colorado by Green. It's full of misinformation, like sometimes when it should be 1.5 miles in the book, it will say 4 miles... careful, I threw mine away after several discrepancies leading to ruining several climbing outings. It really shouldn't be on any shelves. Mar 26, 2011
Mike Lane
Centennial, CO
Mike Lane   Centennial, CO
South Platte Ranger District- considering that most of the crags in the closure area are adjacent to Jackson Creek Road and camping areas, wouldn't it make sense to close that road off to motorized vehicles, especially the bikes? I'm sure that BRAAAPPPP BRRAAAAPPP BRRRRAAAPPP from sunrise to sunset every Friday, Saturday, and Sunday doesn't help the peregrines. Mar 10, 2011
FYI: Parts of Devil's Head climbing area are closed March 1- July 31 every year for Peregrine falcon protection. The official closure order and associated map can be found here: fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO….

For questions or more information, please contact the South Platte Ranger District office at 303.275.5610. Mar 8, 2011
David, there's only part of one DH crag in the Rock Climbing Colorado book, and of the 60 or so crags there, it's among the lower 1/4 in overall quality. A quick scan of the book at one of the local shops should be enough for you to decide if it's a worthwhile purchase. Mar 4, 2011
Monty
Golden, CO
Monty   Golden, CO  
Thanks for your work on the new guide! Devil's Head is a wonderful place to escape summer heat. Jul 28, 2010
There a bunch of books now available at Thrillseekers for those on the south side of Denver and they were also shipped to Mtn. Chalet in the Springs and should be available there sometime during the week of July 26th. Jul 23, 2010
The book is awesome. Color photo-topos and hand-drawn topos, great color action shots, history, solid approach Beta. Buy one now! Jul 22, 2010
The book is now available at Wilderness Exchange, Bent Gate, and Neptune's, and will hopefully be at the Mtn. Chalet next week. Jul 22, 2010
Micahisaac
Longmont, CO
Micahisaac   Longmont, CO
New guide book is out!
"Rampart Range Rocks" by Tod Anderson is available at Bent Gate right now. You may be able to get a copy from Tod if you see him at the crag. Jul 21, 2010
Mike Lane
Centennial, CO
Mike Lane   Centennial, CO
Tod is updating his guidebook. There might be 30-40% more routes in the next edition. In the meantime, enjoy the solitude. Sep 30, 2009
Sung Baek
Denver, CO
Sung Baek   Denver, CO
Just climbed one of the new areas, up your buttress last weekend. Is anyone (Tod?) going to post the info? Sep 30, 2009
Information Sought

There are several new routes in the alcove that lies immediately to the west of Digital Tower. Some are on the west face of Digital Tower itself and others (8 total) are on the east-facing wall adjacent to that. Any information regarding the names, ratings, etc. would be most appreciated. May 26, 2009
Ross Keller
Parker, CO
Ross Keller   Parker, CO
Rampart Range road is scheduled to open 4/10 (conditons permitting)

fs.fed.us/r2/psicc/spl/ Apr 3, 2009
jhump  
Does anyone know when the Rampart Range Road (access road for D.H.) will reopen for 2009? Also, does it only reopen when conditions allow, or is it based on a mandatory minimum date? Apr 3, 2009
Shane Neal
Colorado Springs, CO.
Shane Neal   Colorado Springs, CO.
I believe the raptor closure is on Devils Head proper- the trad climbing destination in Hubbels book. Aka- the Dariush of Balanat. A great must do 5.9+. Closed March 1st to July 31st. The sport area has no closure that I am aware of.... Have fun!! Jul 10, 2008
Christopher Jones
Denver, Colorado
Christopher Jones   Denver, Colorado
Yes, there is a raptor closure but I don't know the specifics of which formations. Jun 13, 2008
Steven N   CO
Are there any raptor closures for Devil's Head? I thought I saw something on it before.... Jun 13, 2008
Kyle P.
Lander, WY
Kyle P.   Lander, WY
Does anyone know about any new trad routes on the Amphitheater near the Zinn Overlook split off? Nov 22, 2007
Rampart Range Road will open on Saturday, May 12, 2007, a late start this year due to the heavy snowpack. May 11, 2007
Patrick Peddy
evergreen,co
Patrick Peddy   evergreen,co
Bolts are too close together and the routes are rated on the easy side although you will still find me clipping them. We measured the distance between bolts at the Starcastle to be 42 inches apart, clipable from almost the same stance. Dec 20, 2006
In my 15 years of climbing at Devil's Head, the flies were by far the worst I've ever seen. However, if you stayed in the shade there were very few of them. I've also experienced way more flies in Aspen and Tensleep Canyon recently than ever before too, maybe they're the cause of global warming. Jul 31, 2006
Sorden
inside the Bubble, Colorado
Sorden   inside the Bubble, Colorado
Hey you forgot to mention how hot it was there yesterday! (Other than the swarms of flys and ants). What a cool place! I'd like to know what the locals know; but in the future I will avoid Devil's Head during hotter months. Dirty quality rock, bolted cracks, obscure trails, no water; I loved it! I'll be back in Autumn. Jul 31, 2006
Mike McKinnon
Golden, CO
Mike McKinnon   Golden, CO
Went there on 7/30/06 and the flies were everywhere. If you were silent, it sounded like you were in the middle of a beehive with all the swarming. They were not black flies but annoying nonetheless and swarming all over you as you climbed. Jul 31, 2006
Went back to The Head on Sunday. I truly can't believe that areas like The Sport Park, Clear Creek, The Monastary, even Shelf get so much action when Devils Head has, by far, the best sport climbing in the state. This is, of course, my humble opinion. But really, The Head has about two hundred and twenty sport climbs (5.9 - 5.13) and dozens of stellar trad lines. The rock is the best granite face climbing I've seen in Colorado. It must be the forty minute approach that keeps everyone away. It's too bad that a mere forty minute approach would prevent people from experiencing what is the best sport climbing in The Front Range. If you haven't climbed at The Head you are cheating yourself. Make it your next destination. Nov 7, 2005
You might be talking about h-flake, 30' left of rock nazi. I was unable to finish pitch 2 due to weather, hope to get up there in the next few weekends. I'll post it here when it's finished. Sorry for the inconvenience.-JH Dec 16, 2004
Regarding a new bolted line put up on the Headstone on Saturday, September 11 ... PUT UP SOME ANCHORS. Your new route probably goes at 10c (onsightable for most 5.11+ climbers) and is well-cleaned, but it stops well before the top of the wall without anchors. If you're going to bolt a route and not finish it, leave out the first few bolts, not the anchors. Climbers are likely to mistake the route for something marked in the guidebook and wind up having to traverse down to the anchors on the arete when they reach the last bolt. Sep 20, 2004
DH crew, just wanted to say what a great job you have done creating and marking the trails around here. I have been to DH several times over the years and it is one of the more complicated places to figure out where the hell you are. I've been climbing in the West Valley the past three weeks and along with the new guide it has been a piece a cake getting around back there. Thanks for the back breaking work. Aug 15, 2004
The new guidebook to Devil's Head is now complete and available in stores. There are over 200 routes listed. The book contains many new topos and pictures as well as all of the details on how to find the new climbs. So far it's available at The Bent Gate, Mountain Sports, Mountain Miser, & Neptunes. Hope to see you up there this summer. Apr 9, 2004
One of the interesting side areas that I found on Devils Head is on the west side, just to the east of the gully opposite Topaz Point. Or, for those who have been in the area for more than 10 years, Virgin's Bath. The Forest Service had to change the name on the sign because unthoughtfull city slickers and their cousins keep tearing down and stealing the signs to take home and hang on their bathroom door. But for those of you that are here because they love what I call 'Extreme Hiking', follow Rampart Range Road to the sign leading to the trailhead parking area, but take the route to the right.After a couple of zig-zags and big 'S' curves, you'll come up to the area marked Topaz Point. Stop, you went too far. Back up about 100 yards or so and take the usable 2 wheel drive trail that takes you to the dig site of Topaz Point. Leave the non-climbers here to dig in the dirt for findable quartz and topaz crystals while you take the short 10 minute wall across the small gully due east. Once you hit the face, it doesn't matter if you go left or right, there's a fresh assortment of granit cracks and chimneys that will test your will and patience all day long, and give you fantastic views into the Westcreek / Deckers area.There is plenty of climbs on this side of the rock that havent been destroyed yet. All I ask is Please pickup your trash so my kids dont have to. Feb 16, 2004
On July 19, 2002 Devil's Head and most of the Pike National Forest reopened. Devil's Head was not burned and retains its previous natural character. The view from the firetower provides an amazing view of the now mostly burned South Platte area. Jul 31, 2002

More About Devil's Head

Printer-Friendly Guide
What's New
Guidebooks (2)

All Photos Within Devil's Head (621)

Most Popular · Newest