Elevation: 8,500 ft
GPS: 39.256, -105.096 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 22,635 total · 495/month
Shared By: Gneiss Yeti on Apr 16, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Access Issue: Raptor Closures Details

Description

For those that missed the Rock and Ice mini-guide for Devil's Head(issue 223), Devil's Gate is a new addition to the already impressive swath of climbing at Devil's Head. There is a wide variety of climbing from highly featured slabs to slightly overhanging burliness on "too good to be true," patina edges. The difficulty of the routes span from 5.8 to 5.13 with the majority of the goodies falling in the 5.12 region. The setting of the crag offers amazing views of the sprawling South Platte capped by Pike's Peak on the horizon. Great trails, excellent bolting, and nice belay platforms make Devil's Gate a true gem.

Getting There

The hike's about 45 minutes, approaching from the old 1800s trail to the watchtower off Jackson Creek Road. It is best if you purchase the digital guidebook, unless you like bushwhacking among other shenanigans. If you wish to venture off without the guide, the best way is to follow Rampart Range Road, continuing right past the main Devil's Head parking lot all the way down to Jackson Creek Road. Follow Jackson Creek until you reach the second campsite on the right side of the road. There is a faint trail leading uphill across the road. There is quiet a bit of development going on, and it's fairly easy to mistake Devil's Gate for many of the other craggy spires.

36 Total Climbs

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Location: Devil's Gate Sector Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Devil's Gate Sector

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 9
Slabulous
Sport 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 8
Wimpy's Burger Stand
Sport
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 7
Slabby Lady
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 11
Slip Slabbin' Away
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 23
Shout at the Devil
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 5
Beaker
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 4
Dr. Bunsen
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 33
Devil Dog
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 11
Surfing with the Devil
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 16
Devil's Vista
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 28
The Devil's Own Stone
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 14
Hell's Heartbreaker
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 13
Dammit Samet
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 8
Demons & Wizards
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 8
Deviled Eggs
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Slabulous Slabulous
 9
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport 2 pitches
Wimpy's Burger Stand Slabulous
 8
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Slabby Lady Slabulous
 7
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Slip Slabbin' Away Slabulous
 11
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Shout at the Devil Devil's Gate
 23
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Beaker Laboratory
 5
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Dr. Bunsen Laboratory
 4
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Devil Dog Devil's Gate
 33
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Surfing with the Devil Devil's Gate
 11
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Devil's Vista Devil's Gate
 16
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
The Devil's Own Stone Devil's Gate
 28
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Hell's Heartbreaker Devil's Gate
 14
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Dammit Samet Devil's Gate
 13
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Demons & Wizards Devil's Gate
 8
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Deviled Eggs Devil's Gate
 8
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Devil's Gate Sector »

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michalm
Boulder, CO
michalm   Boulder, CO
This page has a fairly vague approach description. Perhaps add a more accurate approach description so it doesn't appear that you are simply trying to advertise Tod Anderson's Rakkup guide. Sep 7, 2017
slim    
Hmmm, there really isn't too much routefinding on the approach. You just hike the trail up the hill, and it dumps you at the base of Devil's Gate. Sep 7, 2017
You mean the guide that paid for the bolts on almost all the routes there? Sep 7, 2017
michalm
Boulder, CO
michalm   Boulder, CO
Slim, you are correct. After going to Devil's Gate this past weekend, the trail to Devil's Gate was pretty straightforward without the digital guide.

Tod, I appreciate the enormous amount of time and effort you and your friends put into developing these routes and improving the trails (which are fantastic).
With that said, nobody is paying you to do this. If this is not purely a labor of love, then you might be doing it for the wrong reasons. There are many prolific route developers out there who are not looking to recoup costs or looking for recognition for their work.

I won't say much on this matter, but the route development would certainly have been less expensive if some of the routes were more thoughtfully and tastefully bolted.

There will always be another motivated person who will climb what you don't. Please keep in mind future climbers when you drill holes into the rock. Sep 11, 2017
slim    
It's not so much that he is recouping costs, but rather that the proceeds go towards hardware for future routes. I think there are other folks (along with Tod) that use these bolts on new routes. Sep 11, 2017
Getting back a small fraction of the $20,000 - $30,000 I've invested in hardware there over the years doesn't seem like the wrong motivation for me. Most importantly getting some remuneration for the hours spent cleaning the routes, the real work, sometimes an hour for each 10' of route is more important. All that apparently pales in comparison compared to the effort needed to critique on the internet it seems. Sep 13, 2017
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
Tod, in all honesty, I think it's simply folks not knowing or not seeing the big picture. You've definitely put in tons of hardware paid for from your own personal funds. Many of us don't have that as much in our day-to-day consciousness. So, on behalf of all us average climbers, pardon us and thank you! Sep 17, 2017