Elevation: 8,500 ft
GPS: 39.256, -105.096 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 42,684 total · 661/month
Shared By: Gneiss Yeti on Apr 16, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Raptor Closures Details

Description

For those that missed the Rock and Ice mini-guide for Devil's Head(issue 223), Devil's Gate is a new addition to the already impressive swath of climbing at Devil's Head. There is a wide variety of climbing from highly featured slabs to slightly overhanging burliness on "too good to be true," patina edges. The difficulty of the routes span from 5.8 to 5.13 with the majority of the goodies falling in the 5.12 region. The setting of the crag offers amazing views of the sprawling South Platte capped by Pike's Peak on the horizon. Great trails, excellent bolting, and nice belay platforms make Devil's Gate a true gem.

Getting There

The hike's about 45 minutes, approaching from the old 1800s trail to the watchtower off Jackson Creek Road. It is best if you purchase the digital guidebook, unless you like bushwhacking among other shenanigans. If you wish to venture off without the guide, the best way is to follow Rampart Range Road, continuing right past the main Devil's Head parking lot all the way down to Jackson Creek Road. Follow Jackson Creek until you reach the second campsite on the right side of the road. There is a faint trail leading uphill across the road. There is quiet a bit of development going on, and it's fairly easy to mistake Devil's Gate for many of the other craggy spires.

46 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Devil's Gate Sector

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 9
Slabulous
Sport 2 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 9
Slabby Lady
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 13
Slip Slabbin' Away
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 33
Shout at the Devil
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 14
Beaker
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 13
Dr. Bunsen
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 50
Devil Dog
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 14
Surfing with the Devil
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 25
Devil's Vista
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 37
The Devil's Own Stone
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 6
The Burning Cauldon
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 17
Hell's Heartbreaker
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 19
Dammit Samet
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 12
Demons & Wizards
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 12
Deviled Eggs
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Slabulous Slabulous
 9
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport 2 pitches
Slabby Lady Slabulous
 9
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Slip Slabbin' Away Slabulous
 13
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Shout at the Devil Devil's Gate
 33
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Beaker Laboratory
 14
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Dr. Bunsen Laboratory
 13
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Devil Dog Devil's Gate
 50
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Surfing with the Devil Devil's Gate
 14
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Devil's Vista Devil's Gate
 25
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
The Devil's Own Stone Devil's Gate
 37
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
The Burning Cauldon Devil's Gate
 6
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Hell's Heartbreaker Devil's Gate
 17
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Dammit Samet Devil's Gate
 19
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Demons & Wizards Devil's Gate
 12
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Deviled Eggs Devil's Gate
 12
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Devil's Gate Sector »

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