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Areas in Devil's Gate Sector

Devil's Gate 4 / 14 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 18
Slabulous 1 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 10
Elevation: 8,500 ft
GPS: 39.256, -105.096 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 15,015 total, 463/month
Shared By: Gneiss Yeti on Apr 16, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

For those that missed the Rock and Ice mini-guide for Devil's Head(issue 223), Devil's Gate is a new addition to the already impressive swath of climbing at Devil's Head. There is a wide variety of climbing from highly featured slabs to slightly overhanging burliness on "too good to be true," patina edges. The difficulty of the routes span from 5.8 to 5.13 with the majority of the goodies falling in the 5.12 region. The setting of the crag offers amazing views of the sprawling South Platte capped by Pike's Peak on the horizon. Great trails, excellent bolting, and nice belay platforms make Devil's Gate a true gem.
Raptor Closures Details

Getting There

The hike's about 45 minutes, approaching from the old 1800s trail to the watchtower off Jackson Creek Road. It is best if you purchase the digital guidebook, unless you like bushwhacking among other shenanigans. If you wish to venture off without the guide, the best way is to follow Rampart Range Road, continuing right past the main Devil's Head parking lot all the way down to Jackson Creek Road. Follow Jackson Creek until you reach the second campsite on the right side of the road. There is a faint trail leading uphill across the road. There is quiet a bit of development going on, and it's fairly easy to mistake Devil's Gate for many of the other craggy spires.

28 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Devil's Gate Sector

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Wimpy's Burger Stand
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slabulous
Sport 2 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Slabby Lady
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slab Happy
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slip Slabbin' Away
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Devil's Gate 2
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Eye of the Liger
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Devil Dog
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
TBD
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Devil's Vista
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
The Devil's Own Stone
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hell's Heartbreaker
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Dammit Samet
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Demons & Wizards
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Deviled Eggs
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Wimpy's Burger Stand Slabulous 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Slabulous Slabulous 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport 2 pitches
Slabby Lady Slabulous 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Slab Happy Slabulous 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Slip Slabbin' Away Slabulous 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Devil's Gate 2 Devil's Gate 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Eye of the Liger Slabulous 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Devil Dog Devil's Gate 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
TBD Devil's Gate 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Devil's Vista Devil's Gate 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
The Devil's Own Stone Devil's Gate 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Hell's Heartbreaker Devil's Gate 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Dammit Samet Devil's Gate 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Demons & Wizards Devil's Gate 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Deviled Eggs Devil's Gate 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Devil's Gate Sector »

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Photos

Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
Tod, in all honesty, I think it's simply folks not knowing or not seeing the big picture. You've definitely put in tons of hardware paid for from your own personal funds. Many of us don't have that as much in our day-to-day consciousness. So, on behalf of all us average climbers, pardon us and thank you! Sep 17, 2017
Getting back a small fraction of the $20,000 - $30,000 I've invested in hardware there over the years doesn't seem like the wrong motivation for me. Most importantly getting some remuneration for the hours spent cleaning the routes, the real work, sometimes an hour for each 10' of route is more important. All that apparently pales in comparison compared to the effort needed to critique on the internet it seems. Sep 13, 2017
slim    
It's not so much that he is recouping costs, but rather that the proceeds go towards hardware for future routes. I think there are other folks (along with Tod) that use these bolts on new routes. Sep 11, 2017
michalm
Boulder, CO
michalm   Boulder, CO
Slim, you are correct. After going to Devil's Gate this past weekend, the trail to Devil's Gate was pretty straightforward without the digital guide.

Tod, I appreciate the enormous amount of time and effort you and your friends put into developing these routes and improving the trails (which are fantastic).
With that said, nobody is paying you to do this. If this is not purely a labor of love, then you might be doing it for the wrong reasons. There are many prolific route developers out there who are not looking to recoup costs or looking for recognition for their work.

I won't say much on this matter, but the route development would certainly have been less expensive if some of the routes were more thoughtfully and tastefully bolted.

There will always be another motivated person who will climb what you don't. Please keep in mind future climbers when you drill holes into the rock. Sep 11, 2017
You mean the guide that paid for the bolts on almost all the routes there? Sep 7, 2017
slim    
Hmmm, there really isn't too much routefinding on the approach. You just hike the trail up the hill, and it dumps you at the base of Devil's Gate. Sep 7, 2017
michalm
Boulder, CO
michalm   Boulder, CO
This page has a fairly vague approach description. Perhaps add a more accurate approach description so it doesn't appear that you are simply trying to advertise Tod Anderson's Rakkup guide. Sep 7, 2017

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