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Demons & Wizards

Name: Demons & Wizards
Rating: 2.2

5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British

Routes in Devil's Gate

L › R R › L A › Z

	Burning Cauldon, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Dammit Samet S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Demon Seed S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
	Demon Semen T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Demons & Wizards S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Devil Dog S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Devil Wears Prana, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Devil Went Down on Georgia, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Devil's Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Devil's Cupcake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Devil's Duodenum, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Devil's Own Stone, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Devil's Vista S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Deviled Eggs S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
	Heads Up S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Hell's Heartbreaker S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Runnin' With the Devil S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
	Shout at the Devil S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Surfing with the Devil S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

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Type:	Sport, 80 ft (24 m)
FA:	Tod Anderson
Page Views:	1,017 total · 15/month
Shared By:	Brian Stevens on Sep 3, 2016
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Raptor Closures Details

March 1st-July 31st: Devil's Head Rock, Sin City, & Recovery Wall are closed for raptor protection. The vast majority of the other crags are unaffected by the closure. Please visit:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al… for additional information and maps.

Description

Start with some fierce crimping for the first four bolts. This is the crux section of the route and flows really well if you get the right sequence. From the fourth bolt, do a fun, slam-dunk move to the downward pointing flake. The moves from the fourth to seventh bolts are steep and fun! The second half of the route essentially climbs the arete of the 5.10a route to the left, but you'll clip separate bolts. I'm sure you could stay on the face and follow the bolt line directly.... Regardless, the first half of this route is quite fun, but I feel it loses stars because of the contrived nature of the upper section.