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Demons & Wizards
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 2.3 from 7
votes
Routes in Devil's Gate
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Burning Cauldon, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Dammit Samet S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Demon Semen T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Demons & Wizards S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Devil Dog S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Devil's Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Devil's Cupcake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Devil's Duodenum, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Devil's Gate 2 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Devil's Own Stone, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Devil's Vista S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Deviled Eggs S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Hell's Heartbreaker S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Runnin' With the Devil S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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TBD S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Unknown Sport Route - Back Corridor S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unknown Sport Route on Prow - Left S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Unknown Sport Route on Prow - Right S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 80 ft |
| FA: | Tod Anderson |
| Page Views: | 319 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Mr. Stevens on Sep 3, 2016 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Raptor Closures
Details
March 1st-July 31st: Devil's Head Rock, Sin City, & Recovery Wall are closed for raptor protection. The vast majority of the other crags are unaffected by the closure.Please visit:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al…
For additional information and maps.
fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al…
For additional information and maps.
Description
Start with some fierce crimping for the first four bolts. This is the crux section of the route and flows really well if you get the right sequence. From the fourth bolt, do a fun, slam-dunk move to the downward pointing flake. The moves from the fourth to seventh bolts are steep and fun! The second half of the route essentially climbs the arete of the 5.10a route to the left, but you'll clip separate bolts. I'm sure you could stay on the face and follow the bolt line directly.... Regardless, the first half of this route is quite fun, but I feel it loses stars because of the contrived nature of the upper section.
Protection
The guide said 12 bolts, but I think it only took 11....
This shares anchor with Devil's Gate 2 (5.10a) but does NOT share any bolts.
This shares anchor with Devil's Gate 2 (5.10a) but does NOT share any bolts.
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