Demons & Wizards
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Type: | Sport, 80 ft (24 m) |
FA: | Tod Anderson |
Page Views: | 1,017 total · 15/month |
Shared By: | Brian Stevens on Sep 3, 2016 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
March 1st-July 31st: Devil's Head Rock, Sin City, & Recovery Wall are closed for raptor protection. The vast majority of the other crags are unaffected by the closure. Please visit:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al… for additional information and maps.
fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al… for additional information and maps.
Description
Start with some fierce crimping for the first four bolts. This is the crux section of the route and flows really well if you get the right sequence. From the fourth bolt, do a fun, slam-dunk move to the downward pointing flake. The moves from the fourth to seventh bolts are steep and fun! The second half of the route essentially climbs the arete of the 5.10a route to the left, but you'll clip separate bolts. I'm sure you could stay on the face and follow the bolt line directly.... Regardless, the first half of this route is quite fun, but I feel it loses stars because of the contrived nature of the upper section.
Protection
The guide said 12 bolts, but I think it only took 11....
This shares anchor with Devil's Gate 2 (5.10a) but does NOT share any bolts.
This shares anchor with Devil's Gate 2 (5.10a) but does NOT share any bolts.
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