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Routes in Devil's Gate

Burning Cauldon, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dammit Samet S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Demon Semen T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Demons & Wizards S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Devil Dog S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Devil's Corner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Devil's Cupcake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Devil's Duodenum, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Devil's Gate 2 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Devil's Own Stone, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Devil's Vista S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Deviled Eggs S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hell's Heartbreaker S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Runnin' With the Devil S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
TBD S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Unknown Sport Route - Back Corridor S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown Sport Route on Prow - Left S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown Sport Route on Prow - Right S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Tod Anderson, Gordon Anderson, Mike Bronson
Page Views: 1,674 total, 52/month
Shared By: Gneiss Yeti on Apr 16, 2015
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Raptor Closures Details

Description

The Devil's Own Stone is an great route on great stone that involves a good deal of stamina. Begin on some solid feeling, kitty litter type rock to the first bolt. I would recommend stick clipping the first bolt or climb slightly better rock on Devil Dog to the left, reaching over, clipping, then trending right to the second bolt and the goodness.

A word of advice: be careful when leading this if there is another party on Devil Dog, they share or come close to sharing some holds around the fifth bolt.

Location

It is the fourth bolted line from the right.

Protection

11 bolts plus anchors.

Photos

A. Bandos
Broomfield
  5.12a
A. Bandos   Broomfield
  5.12a
Several cruxes with great sustained movement. I've heard that some holds have blown in the crux sequence. I have no problem calling this 12a. Get on this climb! Sep 5, 2016
Julia
  5.12a
Julia  
  5.12a
This is an amazing climb. Follow perfect crimps, sidepulls, and nubs on great rock. The fight is not over till you reach the anchors. May 30, 2015