Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,169 total · 28/month
Shared By: Jim Hausmann on Aug 16, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is burly on both pitches, involving about every crack climbing technique.

P1 (100', 14 bolts to 2-bolt anchor, 5.11b).
Start at a bolted, flared chimney. Scott originally climbed this clean with gear, but this would have warranted an R/X rating with the scarcity of good protection available. After the chimney pinches down, the route veers to the left on thin crimps, then up to a comfortable belay just below the large bulge.

P2 (100', 2 bolts & gear to 4" to anchor, 5.10d).
Follow the hand to fist crack through the bulge. If you are uncomfortable with this grade, bring one #4 Camalot in addition to the standard rack. This route was most likely aid climbed by an unknown party before being discovered and cleaned by Scott Sills in 2003. Old gear was found hanging in the crack.

Location

This is the center route on the Main Wall, with pitch 2 ascending the beautiful splitter crack through the bulge.

Protection

Standard rack through 4". Good anchors at comfortable belays.

Photos