Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,808 total · 28/month
Shared By: Jim Hausmann on Aug 16, 2010
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


26 Opinions

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Access Issue: Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is burly on both pitches, involving about every crack climbing technique.

P1 (100', 14 bolts to 2-bolt anchor, 5.11b).
Start at a bolted, flared chimney. Scott originally climbed this clean with gear, but this would have warranted an R/X rating with the scarcity of good protection available. After the chimney pinches down, the route veers to the left on thin crimps, then up to a comfortable belay just below the large bulge.

P2 (100', 2 bolts & gear to 4" to anchor, 5.10d).
Follow the hand to fist crack through the bulge. If you are uncomfortable with this grade, bring one #4 Camalot in addition to the standard rack. This route was most likely aid climbed by an unknown party before being discovered and cleaned by Scott Sills in 2003. Old gear was found hanging in the crack.

Location

This is the center route on the Main Wall, with pitch 2 ascending the beautiful splitter crack through the bulge.

Protection

Standard rack through 4". Good anchors at comfortable belays.

Photos

Dougald MacDonald  
  5.11b
Four stars all the way: great rock, perfect protection, exposure, and, most of all, amazing variety. Bring at least two each gold and blue camalots or equivalents, plus one big piece and assorted smaller stuff, for the steep final crack. Oct 11, 2010
What Dougald said: great climb.

I'm not too dialed into the rating system these days, but pitch 1 seemed very soft for 11c. The crux entailed crystally tips jamming of the sort sometimes found at Lumpy Ridge. There are some similarities between the crux of P1 and Lumpy's Dead Boys Direct which is rated 11+ and is vastly harder than The Bends. Oct 11, 2010
Mike Willig
  5.11b
Mike Willig  
  5.11b
Fantastic route! Highly recommended. 0.4, #2 x 2, #3 x 2, #4 x 2. Sep 15, 2012
Alex Vidal
Boulder, CO
 
Alex Vidal   Boulder, CO
 
Probably easier than 11c for crack-enthusiasts. Very well protected though I found the 2nd bolt very awkward to clip if you are using the easiest technique for upward progress. Jul 21, 2014
Bob Rotert
5.11-
Bob Rotert  
5.11-
Great route, but we didn't feel it was any where close to 11c. Might be 11-. We did Lady Fingers prior to doing this route, and it felt harder. Would say that route is underrated, and this one over. Bolts are a little awkward to clip in the groove. Nicely featured rock makes for good face climbing after the groove. Don't let the 5.11 grade keep you from getting on this one. Aug 3, 2014
Abel Jones
Bishop, ca
 
Abel Jones   Bishop, ca
 
Another classic huge pitch! The crack is way higher quality than it looks from the ground. Smooth on the hands. Sep 22, 2014
Jim Hausmann
Richmond, TX
  5.11b
Jim Hausmann   Richmond, TX
  5.11b
Edited from 11c to 11b. When Scott and I did this back in 2003, it was still pretty mank. Glad it cleaned up, the 2nd pitch is fantastic! Oct 21, 2014
ALuckyDuck
Denver, CO
  5.11a
ALuckyDuck   Denver, CO
  5.11a
The first pitch felt like 11a, the second will probably take as many #2s and #3s as you throw at it. A #4 is helpful. Jul 10, 2016