Elevation: 9,217 ft
GPS: 39.257, -105.1 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 18,900 total · 77/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC
Access Issue: Raptor Closures Details

Description

The RED Wall is one of the best crags at Devil's Head, and being one of the steepest, supports a high concentration of difficult lines. The routes are tricky, technical and powerful. The Red Wall is part of a large system of fins that includes The Starcastle and several other minor crags. Since the steep side is East facing, all of the current routes on the Red Wall are on the East side, although loads of potential for moderate routes exists on the West face. The Red Wall is just about the perfect summer crag. The wall itself is divided into upper and lower tiers, with a good ledge for belays below the upper tier. Most of the routes are single pitch and a bit less than 100 ft long, and a 60m rope is adequate for all of the present lines. With alligator skin, corners, roofs, edges, and flakes, the rock on the Red Wall has some of the most amazing features at Devil's Head. Unfortunately, most FA data on the Red Wall are nearly impossible to attribute or even to recall. With The Great Defoliator and Master Organizer, Tod Anderson, pulling everyone together as many as three drills were working simultaneously on The Red Wall; sometimes even on the same route! Thus, most of the FA data have been loosely cobbled together as The Head Crew. In some cases, Scott Sill and Alan Nelson put in lines where FA was clearly simple, and these have been noted. The Head Crew working at The Red Wall usually included Tod Anderson, Tom Hanson, Richard Wright, and Rich Magill.

Getting There

From the Zinn Overlook, take a faint trail to the right, through the woods, and down hill. The trail will descend rapidly passing a small talus field that ends just before the North edge of the Red Wall several hundred yards down hill. The Red Wall is divided into two sectors. You first encounter the "Drill" routes on the right and further downhill lie the approach pitches to the main wall. The easiest way to start on the main wall is to follow a simple approach pitch on the right and off the trail below the best obvious climbing. Alternatively, three superb 5.11 and 5.12 approach pitches can be used to gain the base ledge at 65 ft. The "Drill" routes are approached from the cut at the right end of the crag, via a small scramble to some trees at the base.

16 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Red Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 9
Drill at Will
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 19
Cornered Rats
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 10
Man Chowder
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 15
Blonde Ambition
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 36
Starting Blocks
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 4
Metamorphosis
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 8
Dressed to Drill
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 7
No Turning Back
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Drill at Will
 9
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Cornered Rats
 19
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Man Chowder
 10
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Blonde Ambition
 15
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Starting Blocks
 36
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Metamorphosis
 4
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Dressed to Drill
 8
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
No Turning Back
 7
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Red Wall »

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