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Routes in The Red Wall

Begin Again S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blonde Ambition S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cornered Rats S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crystal Cruise aka Crystal Corner S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dressed to Drill S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Drill at Will S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gastonian, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Imposed, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Little Secrets S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Man Chowder S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Metamorphosis S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
New Beginning S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
No Turning Back S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Outta The Chute S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Starting Blocks S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Elevation: 9,217 ft
GPS: 39.257, -105.1 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 10,665 total, 52/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

The RED Wall is one of the best crags at Devil's Head, and being one of the steepest, supports a high concentration of difficult lines. The routes are tricky, technical and powerful. The Red Wall is part of a large system of fins that includes The Starcastle and several other minor crags. Since the steep side is East facing, all of the current routes on the Red Wall are on the East side, although loads of potential for moderate routes exists on the West face. The Red Wall is just about the perfect summer crag. The wall itself is divided into upper and lower tiers, with a good ledge for belays below the upper tier. Most of the routes are single pitch and a bit less than 100 ft long, and a 60m rope is adequate for all of the present lines. With alligator skin, corners, roofs, edges, and flakes, the rock on the Red Wall has some of the most amazing features at Devil's Head. Unfortunately, most FA data on the Red Wall are nearly impossible to attribute or even to recall. With The Great Defoliator and Master Organizer, Tod Anderson, pulling everyone together as many as three drills were working simultaneously on The Red Wall; sometimes even on the same route! Thus, most of the FA data have been loosely cobbled together as The Head Crew. In some cases, Scott Sill and Alan Nelson put in lines where FA was clearly simple, and these have been noted. The Head Crew working at The Red Wall usually included Tod Anderson, Tom Hanson, Richard Wright, and Rich Magill.
Raptor Closures Details

Getting There

From the Zinn Overlook, take a faint trail to the right, through the woods, and down hill. The trail will descend rapidly passing a small talus field that ends just before the North edge of the Red Wall several hundred yards down hill. The Red Wall is divided into two sectors. You first encounter the "Drill" routes on the right and further downhill lie the approach pitches to the main wall. The easiest way to start on the main wall is to follow a simple approach pitch on the right and off the trail below the best obvious climbing. Alternatively, three superb 5.11 and 5.12 approach pitches can be used to gain the base ledge at 65 ft. The "Drill" routes are approached from the cut at the right end of the crag, via a small scramble to some trees at the base.

15 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Red Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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All routes have now had hardware upgrades that needed them and cold shut hangers have been replaced. BTW - the welds on the cold shuts were just fine, but hopefully the new ClimbTech hardware will be more enticing for future climbers. Details such as relocated anchors, etc., will be shown on individual routes. The Red Wall should be all spruced up for next season. Nov 26, 2016
My only complaints about the upper Red Wall, is that most of the routes are equipped with home welded coldshuts. Many of the coldshuts had marginal welding jobs, & on the overhanging wall, this is frightening. It has been 13 years since I climbed on this crag. It would be great to return & find all new stainless bolts & hangers or even 1/2" diameter plated steel Powers 5 piece & Fixe hangers. Sep 18, 2016
Geoff beat me to it! Sparse fun lines dot the intimidating, chossy face. The remaining lines typically feel sandbagged partially due to having to check the integrity of every hold before using it. Sep 8, 2016
Geoff U
Centennial, CO
Geoff U   Centennial, CO
Great setting but a long approach and much more loose rock than I was expecting... worth a visit but probably not a crag you'll keep going back to. Sep 6, 2016

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