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Routes in The Red Wall

Begin Again S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blonde Ambition S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cornered Rats S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crystal Cruise aka Crystal Corner S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dressed to Drill S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Drill at Will S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gastonian, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Imposed, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Little Secrets S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Man Chowder S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Metamorphosis S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
New Beginning S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
No Turning Back S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Outta The Chute S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Starting Blocks S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport
FA: Tod Anderson
Page Views: 2,157 total · 10/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Mar 19, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Raptor Closures Details

Description

Starting off the ledge on the main wall and nearly directly above the approach pitch "Outta The Chute", Blonde Ambition may be the best route on the wall. Blonde Ambition shares a start with "Metamorphosis" but hangs a bit right heading for a large corner and block at the top. Alligator edges, handlebar incut flakes, and roof/corner distinguish the Blonde Ambition. A must do line on beautiful rock.

Protection

QDs only. Bring about a dozen QDs and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.

Photos

Henry Lester
Boulder, CO
Henry Lester   Boulder, CO
We found the final crux (second to last bolt) to be quite hard and much harder than the variation of this route that goes left (and avoids the corner) for 4 bolts. My input is that this pitch is 12b - harder than Starting Blocks. Jun 16, 2003
Bill Ballace
Pullman,WA
  5.12a
Bill Ballace   Pullman,WA
  5.12a
I keep falling off the crux. I think that the toss is harder for short people May 26, 2005
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
 
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
 
A good route with fun moves, but sort of broken up and not any better than starting blocks IMHO. Man Chowder to the left is much better Jul 19, 2008
slim

  5.12a
slim    
  5.12a
Really good route. The break in the middle lets you regroup before the upper section. The stretch just before the bulge kind of caught me off guard, harder than it looks. One slightly painful move at the bulge, but the last bit has super cool holds. Highly recommended. Sep 24, 2013
Lotapowder
Sandy
Lotapowder   Sandy
Great route. The first few bolts had some really fun climbing. The crux below the bulge was really hard for me 6'1" and not bad for my partner (squatty and easier if you are shorter), and the bulge was really hard for my partner 5'5" and not bad for me (big reach and easier if you are taller). I agree with Jay, Man Chowder is a better route. Jul 1, 2015
drewhouser  
 
Best route at the wall! Sep 8, 2016
The cold shuts were replaced 2016 and the anchor lowered to the lip, below the ledge so that the rope no longer has to run over the lip at the top of the wall. Still a great route 21 years later. Nov 26, 2016

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