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Routes in The Red Wall

Begin Again S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blonde Ambition S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cornered Rats S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crystal Cruise aka Crystal Corner S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dressed to Drill S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Drill at Will S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gastonian, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Imposed, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Little Secrets S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Man Chowder S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Metamorphosis S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
New Beginning S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
No Turning Back S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Outta The Chute S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Starting Blocks S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport
FA: Anderson and Hanson, 1998
Page Views: 1,159 total, 6/month
Shared By: richard magill on Dec 18, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a cool campus-style route. Scramble up the gully to the right of the red wall. Look at the rock for a ledge - a big tree grows out of the ledge about 15 feet off the deck. You will get horrible feet and good positive handholds at the overhanging crux. Burl on through if you can.

Location

This is a fine line on the far right edge of the Red Wall.

As you look at the Red Wall, you see an obvious upper tier and lower tier. The upper tier actually breaks into a left and right panel, with most of the routes over on the left panel. These routes are accessed by doing one of the lower tier pitches.

The right panel has three routes which can be accessed via a short scramble. Scramble up the gully to the right of the red wall. Look at the rock for a ledge - a big tree grows out of the ledge about 15 feet off the deck. This ledge is where the routes start. Scramble up here. Dressed to Drill is the rightmost route.

Protection

8 bolts.

Photos

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Geoff U
Centennial, CO
  5.12b
Geoff U   Centennial, CO
  5.12b
Awkward climbing for the first half, but the top is great. Sep 6, 2016
slim

  5.12b
slim    
  5.12b
I generally hesitate to award such a short route with 4 stars, but the climbing on this thing is exceptional. There are a couple minor blemishes, the main one being a spooky flake/ledge on the lower section; however, the superb climbing and perfect bolt locations make this a great route. This would be a really good intro to 12b at Devil's Head. Neat belay ledge, nice view, really cool rock. Add this one to your list! Oct 9, 2013