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Routes in The Red Wall

Begin Again S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blonde Ambition S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cornered Rats S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crystal Cruise aka Crystal Corner S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dressed to Drill S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Drill at Will S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gastonian, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Imposed, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Little Secrets S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Man Chowder S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Metamorphosis S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
New Beginning S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
No Turning Back S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Outta The Chute S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Starting Blocks S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport
FA: Tod Anderson, 1994
Page Views: 1,467 total · 7/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Dec 22, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Raptor Closures Details

Description

Scramble up the easy ledge system on the right or take one of the superb approach pitches.

Chase the corner up to back-to-back shallow roofs and pull out onto thin edgy face climbing. Finish on a cruxy bulge that is followed by a delicate run-out to the anchors.

Metamorphosis has not been given three stars in the "Devil" guide; however, I found it hard to knock off points for any reason. Excellent climbing, good stone, continuous movement at the 5.11+/5.12a level, and overall excellent pro are really worth the three stars. Highly recommended.

Location

Metamorphosis begins in the middle of the main wall in a shallow corner system just before the down scramble to Man Chowder.

Protection

A dozen draws and a 60 meter rope.

Photos

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Geoff U
Centennial, CO
  5.12b/c
Geoff U   Centennial, CO
  5.12b/c
Wondering if a hold broke midway up? The first 3 bolts are definitely not the crux anymore - those come in ~11d, but I got shut down (felt mid-12) where the lines split from each other after moving off the undercling. Sep 6, 2016
slim

  5.11d
slim    
  5.11d
This is a really fun route and would make a good first route to do when you go up to the ledge for the first time. The rock is excellent and the protection is good also. I thought the opening 3 bolts or so was the crux, requiring careful footwork and accurate hand tossing. Upper part is really fun on nice grippy rock. The anchor is a bit to the right, which I thought would cause some problems cleaning, but it turned out ok. Sep 9, 2013

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