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Routes in The Red Wall

Begin Again S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blonde Ambition S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cornered Rats S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crystal Cruise aka Crystal Corner S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dressed to Drill S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Drill at Will S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gastonian, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Imposed, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Little Secrets S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Man Chowder S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Metamorphosis S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
New Beginning S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
No Turning Back S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Outta The Chute S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Starting Blocks S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport
FA: Tod Anderson, 1994
Page Views: 142 total, 1/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Dec 23, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Raptor Closures Details

Description

Start off the ledge and in its middle. Here a shallow corner system leads to a shallow overlap - the climbing is actually left of both. After crossing the overlap on its left, pull back right with a series of moves to gain the center of the formation with cracks on the left and on the right. Little Secrets is cruxy right off the bat, but it settles down to exquisite 5.11 edge climbing for much of its distance, actually until just approaching the anchors. Things get real thin and crisp on the over-hanging section 15 feet below the anchor. The gear is largely well-placed, nonetheless, one still has to suck it up getting to the anchor and the last 15 feet are tweaky, fingery, and a bit spooky. NB: the upper crux has a high clip making the move almost from a TR stance.

This is easily worth three stars for the excellent stone, very high continuity, and the cool position. It has thin, fingery climbing most of the way. The FFA goes to Tod Anderson.

Protection

Ten draws and a 60 m rope.

Photos

Cold shuts replaced with ClimbTech hangers 2016. It is possible to climb the finish on the face vs. using the crack to the right, either way the rock is really good, just mossy in the crack. Nov 26, 2016
Garrett Bales
Lake City, CO
  5.11c/d
Garrett Bales   Lake City, CO
  5.11c/d
Fun climb, if not for some choss it would be classic. NO WAY is this thing 12b. The right hand jam is def. on. Def. a worthy climb. Sep 23, 2012
ChanVan Schaack
  5.11d
ChanVan Schaack  
  5.11d
Not sure if I was on the right route (I did the one immediately left of NTB), but I did not find the beginning to be cruxy at all- really just big moves between excellent holds- also, there is a perfect hand crack just right of the upper headwall that one can still easily clip from, so I did not find the top to be all that tweaky- right side in crack, left on face- either way it is a great route, but 12b seems quite high for the grade. Oct 7, 2011