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Routes in The Red Wall

Begin Again S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blonde Ambition S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cornered Rats S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crystal Cruise aka Crystal Corner S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dressed to Drill S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Drill at Will S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gastonian, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Imposed, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Little Secrets S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Man Chowder S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Metamorphosis S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
New Beginning S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
No Turning Back S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Outta The Chute S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Starting Blocks S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport
FA: Tod Anderson, 1998?
Page Views: 3,758 total · 18/month
Shared By: richard magill on Dec 17, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is an extraordinarily good line that moves up overhanging stone on big slopers. Several big moves take you over a roof, where the grade eases off, but there is more 5.11 above to keep you engaged.

This route is probably a bit stiff for 12a. Welcome to the Red Wall.

Protection

7 bolts.

Photos

richard magill
  5.12a
richard magill  
  5.12a
I forgot to mention that this is the middle route of the three routes on the lower tier. Dec 17, 2001
desbien
seattle,wa
desbien   seattle,wa
Awesome...dude. Oct 21, 2007
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
  5.12-
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
  5.12-
Pumpy. Jun 14, 2008
Luke Childers
  5.12a
Luke Childers  
  5.12a
Did this one today and it was a real treat. I thought the hardest moves were getting past the slopers just above the 1st bolt. What followed proved just as enjoyable. Nothing like steep low textured jugs to win you over. Cool line. I wish it was about 30 feet taller!! Jul 12, 2009
Chad M
Castle Rock, CO
  5.12a
Chad M   Castle Rock, CO
  5.12a
Great route! Tricky off the ground and a great crux sequence. May 24, 2010
slim

  5.12a
slim    
  5.12a
This is a pretty wild route. I didn't enjoy it as much as others (not my typical style of route), but I also can recognize that it is a very good route. I don't think I have climbed a blocky/pillowy sort of granite route like this, where the blocks were all completely solid. Very unique!

I didn't have any trouble with the start, but it took me a bit to figure out the last overlap. You have to be agressive here. It took me literally forever to figure out how to clip the bolt here, I must have shook out here for 20 minutes, - but it ends up being the best stance to do so once you figure it out.

A couple quick notes: be careful clipping the 3rd bolt - the hands are pretty good but the feet are quite slick. Also, one thing that would really make this a great route would be to add another bolt at the last bolt and put the anchor there, instead of walking back on the ledge to the current anchor location. Jun 24, 2013
tscupp
Englewood, CO
  5.12a
tscupp   Englewood, CO
  5.12a
Are most staying right at the fourth bolt or climbing directly under/slightly left at it? Couldn't tell if the placement was trying to push you to stay left.

Agree that it would make more sense to have anchor at the last bolt. Oct 9, 2018

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