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Routes in The Red Wall

Begin Again S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blonde Ambition S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cornered Rats S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crystal Cruise aka Crystal Corner S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dressed to Drill S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Drill at Will S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gastonian, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Imposed, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Little Secrets S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Man Chowder S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Metamorphosis S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
New Beginning S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
No Turning Back S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Outta The Chute S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Starting Blocks S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Tod Anderson
Page Views: 827 total, 4/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Mar 19, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Raptor Closures Details

Description

New Beginning starts immediately to the right of NTB. The route launches up in a right-leaning almost horizontal seam with 5.12 moves right off the deck. Head for the right end of the seam, and then zig back left for a complex series of finger crimps to very (!) long reaches. This comprises at least three or four back to back 5.12 moves. However, once you get stood up above the finger crimps, the climbing backs off to 5.11+. New Beginning ticks in a tad less difficult than NTB, but only by a hair.

This route is one of my personal favorites on the RED Wall, if only because I tried so hard to grab the FFA, only to watch it fall to the Great Defoliator himself. Great continuous climbing on excellent rock.

Protection

QDs only. Like most of the routes on the upper tier of The Red Wall, this one is close to 90 feet long and needs about 15 QDs and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.

Photos

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Tzilla Rapdrilla
  5.12c
Tzilla Rapdrilla  
  5.12c
Hangers replaced with ClimbTech hangers 2016. This route has good rock overall and just one or two crunchy holds. Nov 26, 2016