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Routes in The Red Wall
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Begin Again S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Blonde Ambition S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cornered Rats S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Crystal Cascade S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Crystal Cruise aka Crystal Corner S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dressed to Drill S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Drill at Will S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Gastonian, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Imposed, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Little Secrets S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Man Chowder S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Metamorphosis S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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New Beginning S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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No Turning Back S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Outta The Chute S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Starting Blocks S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | Tod Anderson |
| Page Views: | 1,505 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Richard M. Wright on Mar 19, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Road and Raptor Closures
Details
Per Ross Andrea: Ramparts Range Road is closed December 1.
March 1st-July 31st: Devil's Head Rock, Sin City, & Recovery Wall are closed for raptor protection. The vast majority of the other crags are unaffected by the closure. Please visit:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al… for additional information and maps.
March 1st-July 31st: Devil's Head Rock, Sin City, & Recovery Wall are closed for raptor protection. The vast majority of the other crags are unaffected by the closure. Please visit:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al… for additional information and maps.
Description
New Beginning starts immediately to the right of NTB. The route launches up in a right-leaning almost horizontal seam with 5.12 moves right off the deck. Head for the right end of the seam, and then zig back left for a complex series of finger crimps to very (!) long reaches. This comprises at least three or four back to back 5.12 moves. However, once you get stood up above the finger crimps, the climbing backs off to 5.11+. New Beginning ticks in a tad less difficult than NTB, but only by a hair.
This route is one of my personal favorites on the RED Wall, if only because I tried so hard to grab the FFA, only to watch it fall to the Great Defoliator himself. Great continuous climbing on excellent rock.
This route is one of my personal favorites on the RED Wall, if only because I tried so hard to grab the FFA, only to watch it fall to the Great Defoliator himself. Great continuous climbing on excellent rock.
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