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Routes in The Red Wall

Begin Again S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blonde Ambition S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cornered Rats S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crystal Cruise aka Crystal Corner S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dressed to Drill S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Drill at Will S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gastonian, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Imposed, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Little Secrets S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Man Chowder S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Metamorphosis S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
New Beginning S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
No Turning Back S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Outta The Chute S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Starting Blocks S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport
FA: Tod Anderson
Page Views: 1,566 total, 8/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Mar 19, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Raptor Closures Details

Description

Man Chowder is almost the easiest route off the ledge, and a full on classic. Scramble down left on some large blocks to a belay shared by Man Chowder and Cornered Rats (also great). The route is steeper than it looks. However, with some of the best incut holds on the wall, the pulls are never harder than 5.11+. The two cruxes come pulling over the little overlaps on smallish but very positive edges. The face climbing above the last crux takes a little mental control getting to the anchors. Named following a particularly feisty night by The Great Defoliator.

Protection

QDs only. A bit less than 90 feet, Man Chowder needs a baker's dozen of QDs and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.

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Lotapowder
Sandy
Lotapowder   Sandy
This route is awesome! Really varied and sustained with great movement. Had to fight for the onsight on this one. My partner and I agree, it is the best route we did in the 4 days of our vacation at The Head. Jul 1, 2015
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
 
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
 
Excellent pitch. Throws a little bit of everything at you. Jun 6, 2012
Pinklebear  
 
Thanks, T-Zilla. A killer route, now with even better anchors. Sep 27, 2010
The anchor was lowered 10' to be at the previous final protection bolt on 9/25/2010. Stainless Fixe' rings and quick links on the previous protection bolt were installed. The rope should run cleanly from this anchor point to the ledge. Sep 27, 2010
Monty, you're absolutely right about the anchor. This one is high on the list for an upgrade. I thought that lowering the anchor station to the last bolt below the anchors would be best. Does that sound consistent with your experience? The top anchor may have been drilled in a solo bolting endeavor.

Also, this route yielded one of the biggest trundles ever, a block 12' x 12' x 2' with a mere flick of the crowbar. Aug 24, 2009
Monty
Golden, CO
 
Monty   Golden, CO  
 
Couldn't say it better Jay van Sam. It's sad that the only thing that detracts from this route is the anchor placement and the sound of your rope shredding while being lowered. If the anchor was 7ft lower there would be half as much drag and your only missing some 5.8 climbing Aug 22, 2009
Jay Samuelson
Denver CO
 
Jay Samuelson   Denver CO
 
Awesome route, sustained. classic Jul 19, 2008