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Routes in The Red Wall

Begin Again S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blonde Ambition S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cornered Rats S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Crystal Cruise aka Crystal Corner S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Dressed to Drill S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Drill at Will S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Gastonian, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Imposed, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Little Secrets S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Man Chowder S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Metamorphosis S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
New Beginning S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
No Turning Back S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Outta The Chute S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Starting Blocks S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport
FA: Tod Anderson, 1998?
Page Views: 2,494 total, 13/month
Shared By: richard magill on Dec 18, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Raptor Closures Details

Description

Great, airy line with a spectacular position and exciting moves. This lines goes out onto a cool planar face and then over an intimidating-looking roof. When I did this route, it gave me a sense that there was an ass-kicking waiting to happen. Only after I reached the anchors did I sit back and tell myself it really was 11b.

This is the left most route on the upper tier of the Red Wall.

Protection

11-12 bolts.

Photos

slim

  5.11b
slim    
  5.11b
Stellar route. The flakes at the start are way spooky, so we climbed a bit to the left. Probably similar difficulty, but you have a trade-off of solid rock for worse fall potential. Rich Magill's comment about the upper corner having sort of an impending doom feel to it is well noted. The rock and the climbing are kind of like a strange mix of a desert corner, Eldo corner, and Devil's Head features. Really cool, I highly recommend it. Oct 9, 2013
The anchor was lowered 25' to be just above the lip of the roof on 9/25/2010. This was the highest point that the rope would drop cleanly from the anchor to the ledge and is at the end of the difficulties on the pitch. Stainless Fixe' rings and quick links on the previous protection bolt were installed. The rope will still run around the left edge of the roof, but the amount of drag and rope wear should be far less than before. Sep 27, 2010
Monty,

By all means feel free to drop the anchor a bit lower. I've been trying to fix up some of the old stuff here and there and could really use the help. Please post whatever you fix so that I can keep the info up to date. Glad to hear you have liked some of the routes, it makes all the work worthwhile! Aug 26, 2009
Monty
Golden, CO
 
Monty   Golden, CO  
 
Thanks Mike, I totally understand the strain of placing those first bolts, and I do consistently rap from anchors at both DH and T-Ridge. I would love to help spruce up the crag (if possible), with the FA's permission. On this route there will always be drag from the roof, but moving the anchor down 6-8ft will greatly reduce some of that drag. Aug 25, 2009
Mike Lane
Centennial, CO
Mike Lane   Centennial, CO
Monty-
Just read your comments about the anchors. The reason they end up where they do is that setting the anchors there tends to be a pretty involved process; usually with some insecure trad placements, back tension on the rope, the thrill of drilling with a wicked pendulum if you cut loose....
Unlike the route clips, we don't get much of a chance to refine the anchors before committing. Most of the time we're guessing that the anchors are in line over the objective. Then, once the anchors are set, away goes the top-rigging, and with it the ability to reset the anchors. I don't think any of the Head crew would object to anyone with initiative refining problems like this. Just as long as they are competent bolters and everyone agrees. In the meantime, start rapping more instead of lowering and that'll help minimize the Head effect on your ropes. But regardless, DH is harder on your ropes than most places. Aug 22, 2009
Monty
Golden, CO
 
Monty   Golden, CO  
 
Great route, but the anchor placements on this and Man Chowder drive me nuts! Why do we need to climb 10ft of 5.7 at the top over a rounded bulge and destroy our ropes. I recommend belaying from above unless you have some extra cash in next year's rope fund. Aug 22, 2009
Ken Leiden
Boulder, CO
 
Ken Leiden   Boulder, CO
 
This was my first trip to Devil's Head, so perhaps there are gems like this all over this area, but this is possibly the best granite sport climb I have done. Richard's description is right on. Jul 31, 2008