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Routes in The Crimpfest Wall

Better Rad than Trad S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Crack of Noon T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crimpfest S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Crocodile Rock S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Dave's Dilemma T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Deceptive Slab S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Drill Sergeant S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Easy Does It S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Entourage, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
File Drawer S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fuzzy Wuzzy Was Arete S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
InterGalactic Fungus Pull S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Middle Parallel Space S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Planet Gnarler S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Poser Free Zone S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Right Parallel Space S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Season Opener S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Stooner's Highway S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, Sport, 100 ft
FA: Dave Fields and Ernie Moskovics (Ziggy), 1995
Page Views: 3,923 total, 19/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Mar 18, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is the third route in from the left on the Crimpfest Wall. Dave's Dilemma ascends the obvious flake/groove system. Exit the flake onto relentless and insecure crimps. I found that carrying a few TCUs along provided a measure of comfort higher up, and a Friend to start can be comforting. The TCUs can be fished into a system of horizontal slots higher up. However, with a little boldness the line goes quite well on QDs alone. The anchors have been placed at 80 feet and at 100 feet.

This is a great line: I wish that Dave had done more Devil's Head routes. Most locals will remember Dave's brilliant line on Table Mountain called "Winter Warmer". Dave is the author of numerous bold, intricate climbs, of which Dave's Dilemma is a great example.

Protection

This can be with QDs alone; however, a Friend to start and possibly a few TCUs will help with the spook factor. The route is very safe, but it is important to keep one's head together since all of the clips arise from stances above the gear.
Wes Ryan
Conifer, Colorado
Wes Ryan   Conifer, Colorado
One heck of a route! An awesome, old-school, sport line that will tickle any climber's fancy. Bolts are mostly older button-heads that could use an update in the next couple year. Also, beware of a dangerously loose an hollow, tan flake about 1/3 of the way up. That would hurt. Sep 6, 2015
slim

  5.11a
slim    
  5.11a
Excellent climbing on this one. The 2 lower runout sections wouldn't be bad if the rock was 100% solid (which it isn't). I broke a foothold way above a bolt, at the mantle, and was fortunate not to pitch. The climbing isn't hard through this section, but if 11a is at your limit, you will probably want to be careful. Sep 9, 2013
Pink Thunder
Lakewood
Pink Thunder   Lakewood
This route was a blast. Great moves, and sustained through much of the upper part. I'd do it again in a heartbeat.

I don't think cams are worth dragging up this pitch; the bolts may be a little spaced from time to time, but the clipping stances are perfect, and the falls are all safe. Kudos to Dave for an excellent bolt job. May 26, 2013
This route was our first (Dave Field and I) at DH, and Dave's last. A bolt has been added coming out from the roof, I believe. We used cams in a few spots as we were both allergic to drilling near cracks. The first bolt protects a tricky move above a bad landing, but no one is obliged to use it.

Dave's Dilemma was stay in Colorado or move to Calgary, which he did soon after. Sep 15, 2012
This is a nice line and a good warm-up for the area. The 1st button head bolt at the start of the climb I could do with out!! But a nice line for sure. Jul 15, 2009
Jeremy
Boulder, CO
 
Jeremy   Boulder, CO
 
Great route! I seem to remember getting a bit of a kneebar to clip during the layback section. May 14, 2007
Kevin Neilson
Boulder
 
Kevin Neilson   Boulder
 
Great, long route. The burliest section is the layback near the bottom. It's a pure layback of two parallel edges and nothing but smearing and opposition forces keeping gravity in check. Keep your feet high and don't worry about looking for crimpers on the face or the arete. Clip from the layback and keep going until you can reach the holds above. You don't need to place any gear; it would be a waste of energy, and there should be no deck potential from the clipping stance.

Perhaps you could place some cams higher up on the face but the route seemed fine with QDs only. After the initial layback, there are some flake moves, and then typical face crimps thereafter. The route is long and somewhat pumpy, but with decent rests. After the first set of anchors move a bit left for easy climbing to the second set at 100'. The route can get very hot in the afternoon. Jul 17, 2006
Alan Higham
  5.11a
Alan Higham  
  5.11a
Great pitch, looks steep but plenty of opportunities to get on your feet. Didn't feel runout, used QD's only. Jul 3, 2005
JDory  
Great climb. One of the nicer 11a's I've climbed. Stay on the lay back for a while, and the turn onto the face is nice. Tough start, and great position and pulls up high. Jul 7, 2003
Excellent pitch. I didn't find it too nerve-wracking. The layback between bolts 2 & 3 is commiting and potentially unnerving. A #3 rock or equivalent can be placed between these two bolts to lessen the psyche factor; unclip the nut after clipping the 3rd bolt to avoid rope drag. Aug 24, 2002
If you are disappointed by some of the short, overrated, and overbolted routes on some of the new crags in Boulder Canyon, come do this route and regain your enthusiasm and respect for routes of this grade.

If, on the other hand, you think you are at your limit on 11a, and you have done a bunch of the afforementioned overrated routes in Boulder Canyon to reach that limit, you may want to be cautious about getting on this line.

Aug 7, 2002
One of the best 11a sport routes in the front range! Aug 7, 2002
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
 
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
 
I think that the photo numbering is correct. There is a little, pale flake on the left that appears to drop down as the photo sequence rises from 1 to 4. Jul 5, 2001
Ross Swanson
Pinewood Springs
Ross Swanson   Pinewood Springs
Thanks for the pictures but it looks like the sequence goes 1,4,2,3? Jul 3, 2001