Type: Trad, Sport, 100 ft
FA: Dave Fields and Ernie Moskovics (Ziggy), 1995
Page Views: 4,724 total · 21/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Mar 18, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


63 Opinions

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Access Issue: Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is the third route in from the left on the Crimpfest Wall. Dave's Dilemma ascends the obvious flake/groove system. Exit the flake onto relentless and insecure crimps. I found that carrying a few TCUs along provided a measure of comfort higher up, and a Friend to start can be comforting. The TCUs can be fished into a system of horizontal slots higher up. However, with a little boldness the line goes quite well on QDs alone. The anchors have been placed at 80 feet and at 100 feet.

This is a great line: I wish that Dave had done more Devil's Head routes. Most locals will remember Dave's brilliant line on Table Mountain called "Winter Warmer". Dave is the author of numerous bold, intricate climbs, of which Dave's Dilemma is a great example.

Protection

This can be with QDs alone; however, a Friend to start and possibly a few TCUs will help with the spook factor. The route is very safe, but it is important to keep one's head together since all of the clips arise from stances above the gear.

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