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Routes in The Crimpfest Wall
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20 Years Later S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Better Rad than Trad S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Chest Bump Dat Cheese S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Crack of Noon T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Crimpfest S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Crocodile Rock S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Darko S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Dave's Dilemma T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Deceptive Slab S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Donnie S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Drill Sergeant S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Easy Does It S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Entourage, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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File Drawer S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Frank the Rabbit S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Fuzzy Wuzzy Was Arete S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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InterGalactic Fungus Pull S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Middle Parallel Space S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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No Yellow Shirts S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Parallel Universe S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Planet Gnarler S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Poser Free Zone S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Right Parallel Space S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Season Opener S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Stooner's Highway S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| FA: | Dave Fields and Ernie Moskovics (Ziggy), 1995 |
| Page Views: | 6,232 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | Richard M. Wright on Mar 18, 2001 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: Raptor Closures
Details
March 1st-July 31st: Devil's Head Rock, Sin City, & Recovery Wall are closed for raptor protection. The vast majority of the other crags are unaffected by the closure. Please visit:
fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al… for additional information and maps.
fs.usda.gov/alerts/psicc/al… for additional information and maps.
Description
This is the third route in from the left on the Crimpfest Wall. Dave's Dilemma ascends the obvious flake/groove system. Exit the flake onto relentless and insecure crimps. I found that carrying a few TCUs along provided a measure of comfort higher up, and a Friend to start can be comforting. The TCUs can be fished into a system of horizontal slots higher up. However, with a little boldness the line goes quite well on QDs alone. The anchors have been placed at 80 feet and at 100 feet.
This is a great line: I wish that Dave had done more Devil's Head routes. Most locals will remember Dave's brilliant line on Table Mountain called "Winter Warmer". Dave is the author of numerous bold, intricate climbs, of which Dave's Dilemma is a great example.
This is a great line: I wish that Dave had done more Devil's Head routes. Most locals will remember Dave's brilliant line on Table Mountain called "Winter Warmer". Dave is the author of numerous bold, intricate climbs, of which Dave's Dilemma is a great example.
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