Type: Sport
FA: Tod Anderson
Page Views: 3,233 total · 16/month
Shared By: richard magill on Dec 17, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


40 Opinions

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Access Issue: Raptor Closures Details

Description

This is a very high quality crimping extravaganza. It is dead vertical and requires good footwork as well as microedging ability. The crux comes near the end of the route.

It is currently the third route from the left edge of the Crimpfest wall. The first route is an unnamed 12a/b. Right of that is Crocodile Rock. The next line is Crimpfest.

Protection

9 bolts.

Photos

Monty
Golden, CO
 
Monty   Golden, CO  
 
Great route! pumpy and sequential. Thought the clip at the crux was harder than the crux but fantastic route. Sep 17, 2008
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.12a
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.12a
Wow, fantastic climb! This thing features absolutely exquisite, technical, vertical, edge climbing. In fact, I think that the quality is up there with some of better vertical face (12a) climbs I have done....definitely better than Flesh for Lulu at Rumney and on par with Choke Cherry Eyes at the Iris and Illuminati on Shuteye Ridge.

However, folks should be aware that there is a fairly large flake at the 4th bolt that is just waiting to be torn off. The flake is in two pieces and while the upper-right portion is solid, the lower-left portion (which is likely what most people will reach for) is likely going to come off in the near future. Anyway, belayers beware. Oct 10, 2012
Tzilla Rapdrilla
  5.12a
Tzilla Rapdrilla  
  5.12a
All bolt hangers upgraded today. Oct 14, 2015
Thanks for replacing the bolt hangers!!! Jul 11, 2016
Monty
Golden, CO
 
Monty   Golden, CO  
 
Just about every bolt is a spinner on this route.... Could be the stacked washers from the swap. Sep 22, 2016
Tzilla Rapdrilla
  5.12a
Tzilla Rapdrilla  
  5.12a
The hangers could be more likely to rotate with the added washers, but the Powers bolts are designed for vibrating machinery, etc., and won't loosen due to hanger movement, so they should be ok. Oct 3, 2016
Julia
  5.12a
Julia  
  5.12a
This is a fantastic, crimpy, technical climb, one of the best 12s in the South Platte. Get those feet up and start crimping. The bolts look amazing! Apr 20, 2017
Branty
Boulder, CO
 
Branty   Boulder, CO
 
Oh my goodness, what a fun climb! The miraculously good-yet-thin crimps just don't quit! I don't think that flake down low ever broke off -- there was a flexy hold a little after the start. Get on this!

A strange curly-rope and rock circumstance made my rope get stuck on the third-to-last draw after pulling (through quickdraws). We had a second rope, so it wasn't a problem, but maybe people with ropes prone to curling should be careful or something. Sep 3, 2018